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Post by alientude on Jul 7, 2022 20:55:16 GMT
My Swords of Northshire katana has a katatemaki wrap, and both menuki are loose - I can slide them around pretty easily, and it's not a good feeling when cutting. Any advice on tightening them up that won't require a rewrap? I might be able to get some glue or epoxy under them. Or maybe I should lacquer the ito?
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Yagoro
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Ikkyu in Kendo and Kenjutsu Practitioner
Posts: 1,572
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Post by Yagoro on Jul 8, 2022 23:42:27 GMT
id try lacquering the ito before going to epoxy
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jul 9, 2022 0:16:11 GMT
you could lacquer the ito which will make it stiffer but since your ito is white, it may also tint it. oil based polyurethane will have an amber tint, which on white would probably wind up looking old and dirty so if you go the lacquering route, maybe try water based. test it first though because I don't know that it will be 100% clear and non staining.
otherwise, you could try to get some epoxy/glue under the menuki with a syringe or a needle tip, etc., whatever you can fit under there. try lifting them a bit with a dental pic or similar tool, while applying the glue. and of course, don't put so much that it squeezes out afterward, just a dab should do ya
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Post by alientude on Jul 9, 2022 4:11:29 GMT
Thank you. I think I'll give the epoxy a try, and if that doesn't work, move on to lacquer.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jul 9, 2022 14:13:56 GMT
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jul 9, 2022 18:51:29 GMT
if the ito is silk, I would suggest not using superglue. superglue will burn silk, possibly cotton or even synthetic silk though I've only tested it on real silk. it creates a hardened and visibly "frosty" white patch on and around the area glued.
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Post by alientude on Jul 9, 2022 19:40:32 GMT
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pgandy
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Senior Forumite
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Post by pgandy on Jul 9, 2022 20:46:01 GMT
if the ito is silk, I would suggest not using superglue. superglue will burn silk, possibly cotton or even synthetic silk though I've only tested it on real silk. it creates a hardened and visibly "frosty" white patch on and around the area glued. Thanks for the heads up. I’ve never used it on silk, but have on cotton. I’ve been careful not to put it on the surface but prayed the area up and placed a small drop with a fine applicator underneath. I then would use the pad of the forefinger or finger nail to apply pressure constantly moving it as I dared not to stop as I did not care to become attached to my work, at least not in that fashion. But then, I have not used enough for the glue to bleed through nor squeeze out from under. A surprisingly small drop will normally do the trick. But as I said if not familiar with the stuff practice first. |
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jul 10, 2022 0:13:23 GMT
that should be fine, as long as it doesn't expand. I use something similar, a high impact quick set two-part epoxy. it tends to have some give when cured so I find it's good for parts that get handled often, like kashira. you can also use a non-sticky masking tape to protect the ito around the menuki while you apply the epoxy, even scotch tape should work. if there's a little tape residue on the ito afterward, you can use a q-tip with some rubbing alcohol to remove it. |
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Post by eastman on Jul 10, 2022 1:21:32 GMT
that should be fine, as long as it doesn't expand. I use something similar, a high impact quick set two-part epoxy. it tends to have some give when cured so I find it's good for parts that get handled often, like kashira. you can also use a non-sticky masking tape to protect the ito around the menuki while you apply the epoxy, even scotch tape should work. if there's a little tape residue on the ito afterward, you can use a q-tip with some rubbing alcohol to remove it.
JB Clearweld doesn't expand. I've been using it for the last 2 years.
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