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Post by porkchopexpress on Jun 26, 2022 1:28:38 GMT
I recently purchased a Model 13 dojo pro from the Ronin scratch and dent sale (the only real flaw is the cosmetic yokote aren't symmetrical, no biggie) and thought I'd spruce it up a little bit by stripping the heavy black primer off the fittings and giving them more of an aged copper/bronze finish to match the brown ito. I removed the tsuba, stripped it and then painted it with an oil rubbed bronze finish. I then used brass black on the habaki/seppa and for the fuchi and kashira i just used a brass brush to strip away the mat primer leaving a slight copper hue and was happy with how they looked. I lacquered the ito and rayskin (might have shimmed the nakago, cant remember) then put a micro bevel on the blade to get it hair popping sharp. It was a fun little two evening project and I think it gives this sub 200$ sword a little more refined and complete look.
As far as how the sword handles I was pleasantly surprised, everything is flush (no gaps at all), built like a tank and rock solid. For my size mitts the tsuka dimensions are perfect and the heavy plain tsuba (almost a quarter inch thick) brings the balance of these typically point heavy beaters back closer to the hands making it faster and more comfortable to wield, it almost feels light. Its a very enjoyable and a bit more aesthetically pleasing backyard cutter that I'm not afraid to practice with.
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steveboy
Member
Measure twice, cut once.
Posts: 367
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Post by steveboy on Jun 26, 2022 1:49:28 GMT
Nice! I like the look of that habaki.
I've had very good luck with Ronin Katana, esp. their scratch & dents.
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Post by porkchopexpress on Jun 26, 2022 1:58:25 GMT
Thank you, yeah you really can't beat em for a solid project katana.
The stuff you do is way next level, you've really got a great mix of modern and traditional aesthetics, that Tanto is brilliant.
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steveboy
Member
Measure twice, cut once.
Posts: 367
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Post by steveboy on Jun 26, 2022 5:21:23 GMT
Wow, thanks so much!
Can I ask what you used for the bronze rub? I forget to step outside the box sometimes, and I just never thought of doing that. It looks a lot more authentic than any paint job I could do.
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Post by porkchopexpress on Jun 26, 2022 11:33:21 GMT
I used rattle can rustoleum "oil rubbed bronze" metallic paint, it's a really nice authentic looking finish but a little temperamental and had a surprisingly long cure time (maybe I didn't shake it enough or went too heavy). Once dry though it's like a durable gloss.
I tried cold bluing at first with the tsuba, it's ferrous magnetic but the solution just wouldn't take so maybe it's some kinda iron alloy.
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steveboy
Member
Measure twice, cut once.
Posts: 367
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Post by steveboy on Jun 26, 2022 16:57:53 GMT
Thanks! I never would've guessed that was rattle-can.
Sometimes things won't take because of chemical reaction with whatever was on there previously. Before painting -- especially metal that's been painted or coated with something -- I clean with TSP, denatured alcohol, and/or a good degreaser. Jasco makes a wipe-on "metal etch" product that works well for helping paint bond to metal.
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