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Post by carbon on Apr 29, 2022 16:35:27 GMT
I'm finally getting around to sharpening my CS Hand and a Half sword. While I'm am fairly adept at sharpening knives I have learned that swords are a different animal. I understand that a secondary bevel isn't ideal but for me it seems to be the best solution since I want to be able to easily resharpen the sword as necessary during use. I am about finished building a fixture that will allow me to set the angle at anywhere between 10-20 deg per side ( 20-40 deg inclusive ). Targets will be the usual bottles, foam, and possibly light branches, etc. Suggestions?
Also, do the same techniques apply, as in hone each side to a bur then polish off with progressively finer stones until the bur is removed? I'll be using the stones from my KME sharpener, which go from 100-1500 grit, as well as a strop. Any advice would be most appreciated.
Dave
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pgandy
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Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Apr 29, 2022 22:53:26 GMT
My standard edge is 25° convex but see nothing wrong with a flat V edge assuming you are not subjecting an oriental sword. I use it on all of the targets you mentioned except foam. I don’t not have access to that. On special occasions I’ll reduce the angle to 22½° and would not feel uncomfortable at 20° depending on the tempering. I would not on Universal’s EN9 blades for example. Lately I’ve been relying on a Work Sharp in many cases but not for blades such as a katana or several other oriental blades. I still hand sharpen though. Depending on the condition of the blade at the start has something to do with the starting grit. Generally no coarser the 250 as a starter but have used more aggressive papers and finish with 600 grit. And again that is not etched in stone and have stopped at 400 and have gone to 1500, I think once it was 2000. I use a light lubricant such WD-40 with the paper. Once you get your feet wet you will adjust your technique to suit. I hope this helps some.
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Post by carbon on Apr 29, 2022 23:44:08 GMT
Thanks much for the info, most appreciated! Since it's not complete yet I'll mod the fixture to allow for steeper angles. I hope to have it finished by the end of the weekend. Will post pics when I'm done if anyone is interested.
Below is a pic of the edge I'm dealing with. The pic isn't that good but it should give an idea. Looks more like a fine toothed razor saw than a smooth edge.
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circumstances
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All the same we take our chances.. laughed at by time..tricked by circumstances
Posts: 92
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Post by circumstances on Jun 20, 2022 4:02:20 GMT
Mmmm. My technique is a bit unorthodox. I sharpen everything by hand adjusting my stone grit to the intended purpose of the edge. My katana and wakazashi are nothing like my bushwhacking blades or hunting knives.
The latter types see a max of an 800 grit. Angles are different on everything. I look at sharpening kinda like splitting wood. I "read" the steel kinda like "reading" a round I'm taking a maul to.
Yes two VERY different extremes but you get the point. A blade edge will reveal itself from one piece to another and that's how I judge my angle to the stone. I've never once in my life actually measured the angle with sharpening a blade.
I estimate a starting point usually starting out following the factory edge on a new piece. If adjustment is needed the steel will tell me within a few strokes. With my swords and bushwhackers I take the stone to the blade. On my knives I put the stone in a vice and take the knife to the stone.
Unless I'm in the field then of course I hold the stone by hand. Since I got my first pocket knife when I was 7 and my Dad showed me how to use a stone I only ever screwed up one blade. And it was a cheap beater anyway and it still worked.
Just wouldn't hold an edge. My katana is insane sharp. My wak is getting there. The katana is not one you want to mess up with. It will do more than hurt you. The wak will be the same. I finished the katana with some careful Zen time with a 2000 fine Arkansas. The edge disappears into the hamon when you look at it holding it up to the light.
I've only ever used a secondary bevel on one of my knives. A tank of a Bowie fighter I made from a leaf spring out of a 1956 Chevy pickup in a rancher buddies bone yard. The damn thing is just so beefy the edge geometry wouldnt work other tan a secondary bevel.
I keep threatening to get after that knife with the grinder and belt sander and trim a couple pounds off it. I'll get around to it one of these days....
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