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Post by tsmspace on Feb 17, 2022 4:27:13 GMT
I have a windlass 1860 union lcs. It's fine,,, except that the wood in the handle must be too soft,, It's loose already, as though the wood is mashed right around the tang.
I don't want to try to take the whole thing apart, thinking I will never put it back right. Is there some way I can expect some glue or other material that I somehow inject to be stable, strong, and hold the shape?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2022 5:00:19 GMT
I've used shims and epoxy but if you can't fit shims, maybe some metal or wood shavings mixed with epoxy or wood glue?
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Post by mrbadexample on Feb 17, 2022 14:26:32 GMT
Ah, the twisty spadroon grip. I saw someone torque the grip on a fine custom one at the Blade Show some years back. Thought the maker might put it through the offender, but he showed admirable restraint. I guess that’s a long-winded way to say it happens.
Djinn’s shim advice is good if you can fit some between the guard and the blade. Wood is good. I’ve also had good luck with slivers of copper pipe beaten flat. There may not be enough room for that. If not, you can carefully pour in some runny epoxy. Before doing so, wrap the first few inches of the blade and the whole grip in blue painters tape. This will save you a lot of cleanup later. Have some paper towels and rubbing alcohol on hand to clean up any spillage.
Your mileage may vary, but I’ve had good luck with this approach. Let us know how it goes!
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Post by mrbadexample on Feb 17, 2022 14:27:49 GMT
Oops. Just saw it’s a saber, not a spadroon. Yeah, try shims first. Easier to reverse the process if it goes sideways.
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Post by squalembrato on Feb 17, 2022 22:14:29 GMT
Drip some cyano acrylic Super Glue into the space between the blade ricasso and the guard.
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Post by mountainsylph on Mar 4, 2022 15:34:02 GMT
How would gorilla glue perform in this?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2022 21:40:29 GMT
I imagine it would do good, especially if you managed to make sure it settles in every spot. Epoxy would be my preferred glue tho, that stuff dries into a resin
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 16, 2022 9:00:30 GMT
thanks to all above!
I don't know what I will try. I don't want to take it off, but I may try to slide thin shims down it from the blade. I'm not sure where I will get really long thin shims of wood, it would be hard to make them. I could try a runny glue and letting gravity drip it down. I do sort of think an epoxy that can be injected through a small tube would be the best one for my use case though. I might just try to replace the wood, but I can't imagine doing that without removing the blade, and I don't see trying that in the near term.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Mar 16, 2022 12:58:54 GMT
Long shim? Popsicle stick!
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 16, 2022 17:29:07 GMT
I’ve had good luck with Loctite 242. It has a low surface tension and runs easily into the smallest orifice. I held my swords tip up and inserted. It sets in about 20 minutes and the excess can easily be wiped away before that time. A word of caution, on one sword I thought that I was injecting an excessive amount and when I took a look to check my hand was full of blue liquid as well as was the grip. It had run out of a lower hole. As I said clean-up is easy before it sets and a paper towel was all that was necessary to clean both the sword and me. That was perhaps three years ago and is still holding in spite of the use.
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Post by carbon on Mar 22, 2022 23:09:11 GMT
I may be a bit late to this but if you haven't done your repair yet I have a suggestion that might work.
If you have enough room you should be able to force the epoxy in to the needed area. Yes, it's a bit pricey but it is good stuff.
As a cheaper alternative this could also work but wouldn't be as strong.
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