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Post by deputy276 on Oct 1, 2021 18:06:12 GMT
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Post by eastman on Oct 3, 2021 2:28:18 GMT
I'd recommend learning to make them yourself. If you go with a custom maker, you'll spend at least twice the sword price on a scabbard (and maybe 5-10x).
one of the softer woods (poplar, aspen, etc) would be easier to work with
thinner leather (such as glove leather) covers up the cheap wood
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Post by treeslicer on Oct 3, 2021 4:50:45 GMT
I'd recommend learning to make them yourself. If you go with a custom maker, you'll spend at least twice the sword price on a scabbard (and maybe 5-10x). one of the softer woods (poplar, aspen, etc) would be easier to work with thinner leather (such as glove leather) covers up the cheap wood I'm with eastman on this. I'd get artificial sinew thread to sew up the leather with, because it's hard to break, and wears well.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 3, 2021 12:57:41 GMT
Both of the above replies are good. A custom wood scabbard will cost more than your sword by a good measure. A leather sheath would be the easiest to make and can be done with a few simple tools. You can make the holes in leather with an electric drill. I would prefer using thread designed for leather but dental floss is cheaper and small enough to be threaded through an ordinary sewing needle. It is surprisingly strong and can be tightened more with a cool flame and double stitched. And there are other short cuts. To get an idea watch YouTube, you’ll find tips there for rank beginners to the more experienced. You can make a sheath as simple as two pieces of leather sewn together on upwards. A basic sheath shouldn’t be difficult to make.
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Post by eastman on Oct 4, 2021 1:49:15 GMT
I'd recommend learning to make them yourself. If you go with a custom maker, you'll spend at least twice the sword price on a scabbard (and maybe 5-10x). one of the softer woods (poplar, aspen, etc) would be easier to work with thinner leather (such as glove leather) covers up the cheap wood I'm with eastman on this. I'd get artificial sinew thread to sew up the leather with, because it's hard to break, and wears well.
I've always used waxed linen thread (probably the legacy of time in the SCA and a late 1980s class at Tandy). I have a small spool of artificial sinew so I should give it a try soon.
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Post by deputy276 on Oct 8, 2021 15:16:11 GMT
While I appreciate the replies, I am not much of a DIYer. I can't sew, and I basically suck at working with wood. Plus a scimatar is a different animal from a straight sword. It is curved and it has a wider front that narrows down. So it will be "tricky" to make an efficient scabbard.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2021 2:16:45 GMT
Welcome aboard Fwiw, the Hanwei ad copy could not have been further from history. The sword type is better described as a kilij. That name in hand, you may want to research the type a bit. There are only two ways a sword scabbard like these work. One way is to make them as wide as the widest part of the blade and allow for overall curvature. The second method is to make a shoe like affair where the top/spine of the scabbard is open for a good portion of it. Either way, commissioning a scabbard for the Hanwei will be much more than the cost of the sword. There is a thread at the head of this room that shares links to some of the scabbard makers. There are no ready made for this sword that I am aware of but there may be other leather workers that might tackle it. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/49673/list-custom-sword-smithsCheers GC
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 9, 2021 13:22:34 GMT
Do a search on YouTube for ideas. This will show how to design a sheath for a curved blade. The information you want is at mark :52-1:04. Also people have used cardboard to make sheaths. While having its shortcomings it will protect your blade and your surroundings. It would be hard to find a cheaper source and if you mess up you haven’t lost anything and nothing could be easier than getting another piece and trying again. Draw a pattern one a piece of cardboard, cut out, glue a second piece to that, and trim to match. You can get fancier but that's the basic idea.
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Post by demonskull on Oct 9, 2021 13:43:16 GMT
You said you're not much of a DIY type person however there is an easy way to make a scabbard without a lot of experience, tools or expensive. It is NOT historical but makes a good scabbard for storage or role play type experiences. By oiling the blade, sheathing it, oil it again and sheath it again until you get a slight pooling up of the oil at the mouth of the scabbard. You will now have a self lubricating scabbard that will oil your blade every time you draw or sheath it. Total cost will be less than $25. I've done over a hundred of these scabbards for myself and friends over the past 25 years. Feel free to ask any questions once you've read the how to:
Items needed:
1/2" plywood- slightly larger then the blade of your sword
paneling- two pieces slightly larger than the blade of your sword (You can use 1/4" plywood instead) I prefer the paneling as it makes the scabbard much lighter than the plywood and is easier to use.
Sherpa(synthetic sheepskin) or actual sheepskin- 2 pcs the same size as your blade (any fabric store will have it)
leather hide -slightly larger than your blade -2 pcs
Tools needed:
marking pen
measuring tape or yardstick
straight edge (not needed if you have a yardstick)
wood glue
wire nails and hammer
clamps_ useful but not needed as you will see
jigsaw
File, sandpaper (bench sander is the way to go but I've used all with good results.
scissors or a sharp knife
needle and thread optional
Lay the sword/dagger on your plywood and trace the outline. Measure a 1/4" on the outside of the outline and plot dots all along the tracing. Using the straight edge connect the dots. You will need to connect the dots around the point by hand so plot a lot of dots around the point.
You will now have a tracing of your blade with a slightly larger tracing outside the original one. Because of it's shape, you will have draw your outline wide as the widest part of the play to ensure you can draw and sheath your blade.
While the general instructions are for a double edged sword of European design, I have altered the designs and done falchions, sabers and other odd shaped blades.
Using your jigsaw cut out the outer tracing.
Take this outer tracing and transpose this outline to your two pcs of paneling and cut them out. You will now have three pcs the same size, two of thinner paneling and one piece of 1/4" plywood.
Next use your jigsaw to cut out the original tracing from your plywood carefully. Keep the piece you just cut out, you'll be using it soon.
With your file or sander remove any rough pieces from the paneling and the plywood (inside and outer edges).
Take the inner piece you removed from the plywood and lay it out on the backside of your sherpa or sheepskin lining material and trace it onto the material. Flip over the inner plywood piece and do this a second time so you have two outlined pieces.. Remove this piece of plywood from the work area to avoid confusion, you will not be using it any longer.
Take the paneling pieces and glue the centered lining to the rough side. Do this for both pieces.
Once the glue has dried, take your scissors and cut the lining material's pile down. Do this cross wise and trim it every other inch or so. If you look at it at eye level you should see hills and valleys. When Finished: This will force the lining material to brush back and forth over your blade when sheathed or drawn. When coupled with some oil in the scabbard it will give you a nice even coating of oil.
Take the thin center 1/2 pc of plywood and glue it to your panel pieces like a sandwich: panel w/lining, plywood, lining w/paneling.
Clamp the pieces together. If you don't have clamps, or cloths pins, cord or even tape wrapped around your scabbard will work. Let the glue dry.
Take off your clamps, tape or cord and you finally have something that starts to resembles a scabbard.
Sand or file down the outer glossy edge of the paneling and continue to form the final shape of the core to your satisfaction.
There are a number of ways to attach a leather covering. The easiest is to have both a throat and a chape so the center section is pretty much just a glued leather wrap with a throat piece and a chape over the ends. The throat and chape can be either leather or metal. A leather chape and locket can be made by cutting a band or leather for the chape sew the ends together and glue over the mouth of the scabbard. For the chape, you'll have to cut two pieces of leather slightly larger than the area you want to cover. Stitch them together while inside out, turn them right side out and glue in place.
The next would be a single or double stitched tube with throat and chape.
The cheapest but most difficult is no chape or throat piece. For this you have to cut out two pieces of leather, punch holes all around and then after stitching and turning it right side out, pull it on like a stocking. Trim your nails before doing this one as you can easily scratch the leather pulling the on.
Even with gluing time and a break or two you can knock off one of these in 4-5 hours start to finish.
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Post by deputy276 on Oct 11, 2021 15:35:18 GMT
Thanks again for all the excellent replies. I think I may have figured out a scabbard that I can actually make that isn't overly complicated, yet will carry the sword efficiently. It consists of a thick piece of leather about 6-8 inches wide that wraps around the sword up by the crosspiece. With two heavy duty snaps to secure it around the blade, it will be minimalistic, yet still get the job done. When I want to remove the sword, I just grip the leather flap below the snaps and pull up. Naturally, I will leave enough leather to get a good grip. Thanks again for all the suggestions. Really appreciated.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 11, 2021 15:49:59 GMT
Good, and I wish you success. Learning such skills brings more pleasure to the hobby. I’ll make two suggestions. One is to make a trial run using cardboard as it’s cheap and may bring out something you hadn’t thought of. The second is with a simple stitch, I do not know what you have in mind, around the perimeter can possibly be cut in time by the sword’s edge. A rivet here and there along with the stitch may be advisable or use only rivets and more of them. Let us know the outcome.
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