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Post by karmasoft on Sept 24, 2021 22:24:11 GMT
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Post by Bryan Heff on Sept 24, 2021 23:06:33 GMT
I would leave the peen alone for starters. I would split the wood off remove the grip entirely. See what you got. Honestly my experience you typically peen first before the grip. Then you create a sandwich style grip fix it in place with epoxy e t c. If The peen is still good I would leave it be and work the grip in. You can always remove the peen by grinding it away if you need to later.
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Post by Bryan Heff on Sept 24, 2021 23:11:01 GMT
Del tin typically does the compression style grip where the wood core is solid with a hole or Channel drill lengthwise to accommodate the Tang. The grip is then just slid on and then the pommel and then it's peened. The pommel is then just squeezed against the grip by the peen. If you can shim the pommel in place on the opposite side against the peen and lock it down prior and same goes for the guard and you can sandwich style a grip in place and everything is right and tight.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 25, 2021 0:33:54 GMT
Del tin typically does the compression style grip where the wood core is solid with a hole or Channel drill lengthwise to accommodate the Tang. The grip is then just slid on and then the pommel and then it's peened. The pommel is then just squeezed against the grip by the peen. If you can shim the pommel in place on the opposite side against the peen and lock it down prior and same goes for the guard and you can sandwich style a grip in place and everything is right and tight. I've done this sort of project myself and I agree with Bryan's advice. Avoid disturbing that peen if you can help it.
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Post by karmasoft on Sept 25, 2021 22:07:22 GMT
Thanks guys for the ideas. Bryan, I should have figured you would have experience breaking these down. Here's what I've got... Looks like they welded the rat tail on there. I wonder about the arrangement Del Tin had with Museum Replicas. Is it possible that MR did the final work to produce the completed blade, or do you think the weld was done in Italy? I'm not a fan of the crossguard. I think its small for such a big blade and I don't like the MR stamp on it. I'm tempted to hack that narrow tail off, replace the crossguard, then get a better piece of metal welded back on there to make a proper tang. Problem is the pommel, which I actually like, is just cut straight through to slip onto that tail. Hmm.
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Post by Bryan Heff on Sept 25, 2021 22:23:04 GMT
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Post by karmasoft on Sept 25, 2021 22:59:17 GMT
Really interesting Bryan, thanks. That arming sword, I think, had more meat in the tang than this longsword. In my sword's case, the rat tail is 75% of the total tang length. I don't suppose you recorded that drill wrap exercise for posterity? I quite like a longsword with a ricasso so I'm keen to explore options but the current setup has me thinking of whacking the tail off.
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ghost
Member
Posts: 1,323
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Post by ghost on Sept 26, 2021 0:56:38 GMT
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Post by karmasoft on Sept 26, 2021 15:33:21 GMT
Thanks very much ghost for sharing this thread. Jeff's method of extending the tang is sublime. What I've decided (for now...) is to whack off that peen firstly. Then I'm going to have a go at the blade and see what I can do. The progress I can make with the blade, repair, sharpening and polish, will dictate what gets invested in the hilt.
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Post by karmasoft on Sept 26, 2021 17:42:54 GMT
Sheered the peen off with a bolt cutter.
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Post by Bryan Heff on Sept 26, 2021 17:57:33 GMT
Sheered the peen off with a bolt cutter. Seeing the length of that rat tail I am in agreement with you. My sword it was maybe half for Yours its 3/4 so yeah I don't think I would trust that thing either.
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Post by karmasoft on Sept 27, 2021 19:04:34 GMT
Yeah the idea that a lot of the force of swinging a sword around would be born on that weld and tail are unnerving. On the good news side of things, the chip and indentations toward the tip filed out nicely. I think this blade could be quite decent with a bit of sweat and tears (hopefully no blood). Here is my current hare-brained scheme (depicted below): use what I have. This would result in a hand and a half sword with little to no ricasso, an unknown crossguard, and a threaded pommel.
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Post by Bryan Heff on Sept 27, 2021 20:54:02 GMT
I like the plan...but I think it would be better if you key the pommel, as deep as you can and peen. The drawback is you lose more length in relation to the keyed out section...
I really dislike a wheel pommel that is threaded....loosens and it's off center. Just my 2 cents, good luck
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