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Post by tsmspace on Mar 11, 2021 7:04:48 GMT
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Post by alientude on Mar 11, 2021 7:28:06 GMT
Interesting concept. Certainly looks to be a better price point than the short-lived DSA build your own sword links the Facebook group discussed recently!
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 11, 2021 7:46:05 GMT
   actually the shorter blades is what brought it up. Separately I ordered a sword that is going to be my "troll sword",, if all goes well. It will actually be a bucket list item from childhood,, but essentially it will be about the size of a xiphos, about the shape of a xiphos, but with a few critical customizations. it's going to be all one piece of steel,,, not like, handle parts and a blade, but just all one piece of steel. The next thing is,, it's going to be quite a bit thicker than you would normally see, probably thicker than bronze. I actually don't know how it's going to turn out, there's quite a bit that's up to the maker as far as details,, but I specified about an inch thick right where the blade meets the handle, so hopefully the very start of the blade will be thusly thick. (like a crowbar). The swords length should be about the same as the "cabbage chopper". ideally it will look a lot like a bronze xiphos, though. anyway,,, it will be a troll sword for good reason,,, when I went posting the sword concept around, I was actually kicked from shads discord because I was a troll for posting such a sword idea. I put it up in lots of places,, but the most common response was that I must be a troll, because everyone knows you would never design a sword like that. therefore,,,, it is my troll sword. honestly,, I have to say, I think I would not be alone in wanting one,, but it may be that I am alone in owning one if it DOES show up as specified. I have had other makers tell me no (I must be trolling), and suggest they could weld a handle to the blade that would be thinner, or simply tell me they won't make such a thing, or the least offensive,,, that they simply can't make something like that. (stock removal can't make that,, the bar alone would be like,,, more than a sword). anyway,,, crossing my fingers, but then back to the link, , it does seem to me like sting sized swords would be the most commonly preferred. ( I mean sting must be the most common plastic sword ever made, no??). Zombie tools has a few options. |
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Post by Kane Shen on Mar 11, 2021 16:32:12 GMT
Interesting concept. Certainly looks to be a better price point than the short-lived DSA build your own sword links the Facebook group discussed recently! That’s a pretty low bar🤣 |
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Post by Kane Shen on Mar 11, 2021 16:41:57 GMT
Thanks for discovering the link. I found a similar one on DSA’s website, not hidden deep somewhere but rather on their front page proudly charging people $2500 for assembling a sword from their existing parts. So $800 is more reasonable.
However, I’m not sure whether the quality will justify the cost even in this case. BCI swords seem to be solidly made with proper distal tapering and the right amount of flexibility/rigidity. But looking at the pictures, the casting quality of the pommels are rather rough. I’m not sure whether they will polish it further to smooth them out, but as they are, it’s more in line with budget level swords. I’m just not sure anyone would want pitting and muddy lines on their $800 swords, not to mention that they are threaded on, not peened. The options are quite limited, but they may add more in the future. Plus 1095 is more of a steel for budget swords, rather than their usually 5160, or the 6150 more premium makers typically choose to use. You can commission a true custom based on your design complete with nice scabbard from Purna Darnal for less significantly money, and the quality will demonstrably be better.
The concept of these swords are quite interesting, but I think they are more $500-600 range. I’m aware that after covid the costs at many makers have raised significantly. But if they want to survive, they need to up their games on the quality front.
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 12, 2021 0:18:19 GMT
Thanks for discovering the link. I found a similar one on DSA’s website, not hidden deep somewhere but rather on their front page proudly charging people $2500 for assembling a sword from their existing parts. So $800 is more reasonable. However, I’m not sure whether the quality will justify the cost even in this case. BCI swords seem to be solidly made with proper distal tapering and the right amount of flexibility/rigidity. But looking at the pictures, the casting quality of the pommels are rather rough. I’m not sure whether they will polish it further to smooth them out, but as they are, it’s more in line with budget level swords. I’m just not sure anyone would want pitting and muddy lines on their $800 swords, not to mention that they are threaded on, not peened. The options are quite limited, but they may add more in the future. Plus 1095 is more of a steel for budget swords, rather than their usually 5160, or the 6150 more premium makers typically choose to use. You can commission a true custom based on your design complete with nice scabbard from Purna Darnal for less significantly money, and the quality will demonstrably be better. The concept of these swords are quite interesting, but I think they are more $500-600 range. I’m aware that after covid the costs at many makers have raised significantly. But if they want to survive, they need to up their games on the quality front. I see what you mean about 5160 and 6150,, because it's springier,, right?? anyway, more euroswords especially are found with these steels in the boutique manufacturer market. but then again,, I don't know , I know more than one commenter who seems to think 1095 is a modern sword steel that ranks a bit higher up,, I think in part because of the edge retention, and in part because modern tempering is better. Also, it's not necessarily pure iron and carbon, you end up with some version of a tool steel that's sold as a 1095, but has some alloying to it that increases its toughness. actually, though, I do think a 1095 is more likely to take a set than a 5160, although the edge retention of the 5160 counts as embarassing by comparison, which is why you don't see so many katanas made of it. rather you are more likely to see a 1095 katana edge, because it makes a much more capable cutting edge. I am not 100% sure, but I have a 1095 jian, and that's my experience exactly. I DID manage to give it a small set near the tip, it's not affecting the swords performance, but if you look for it you can see it,,, however the blade is very sharp, and stays that way. I haven't ever actually honed it, it cuts like a nightmare blade. I guess my impression is that 1095 might need to be a bit thicker than springier steels like 5160, but that the potential to cut things like fabric moves up quite a few points. (I'm pretty sure that lots of competition katanas are something like a 1095, but don't quote me on that, but I should throw it out there so that if someone knows they can rebuttal). So,, basically, I did get the impression that a well done 1095 is a premium sword steel,, but that the buyer should know the difference in steel performances. It has an enormous benefit in edge retention, but costs in that the sword might need to be heavier , and may take a set. I also think that 1095 will actually form cracks earlier than things like 5160,, but in THIS forum you have ENOUGH people saying use swords correctly, they aren't meant for that, ,, that the edge retention might be worth it. I mean, if you look at the sword I am ordering custom,, it's supposed to be an inch thick. Now, everyone is going to say that's a troll sword. Now, I'm not an internet troll,, just a genetic one. (uh, those stories go back before the internet, and the picture looks like me in EVERY example UNTIL the toy trolls came out in the 90's, which "re-imaged" what trolls look like to be cuter, because they are supposed to be ugly. ,, but for every story BEFORE those toy cuties came out, spitting image right here, I'm the real thing.) ,,, so it makes sense that I desire a troll sword. I think it's going to be 1065 or roundabouts. It should be so thick it won't matter except the very tip. Once the tip breaks off though, it won't matter even a little. here's what it should end up looking like I think. Attachments:
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Post by Kane Shen on Mar 12, 2021 3:11:39 GMT
Thanks for discovering the link. I found a similar one on DSA’s website, not hidden deep somewhere but rather on their front page proudly charging people $2500 for assembling a sword from their existing parts. So $800 is more reasonable. However, I’m not sure whether the quality will justify the cost even in this case. BCI swords seem to be solidly made with proper distal tapering and the right amount of flexibility/rigidity. But looking at the pictures, the casting quality of the pommels are rather rough. I’m not sure whether they will polish it further to smooth them out, but as they are, it’s more in line with budget level swords. I’m just not sure anyone would want pitting and muddy lines on their $800 swords, not to mention that they are threaded on, not peened. The options are quite limited, but they may add more in the future. Plus 1095 is more of a steel for budget swords, rather than their usually 5160, or the 6150 more premium makers typically choose to use. You can commission a true custom based on your design complete with nice scabbard from Purna Darnal for less significantly money, and the quality will demonstrably be better. The concept of these swords are quite interesting, but I think they are more $500-600 range. I’m aware that after covid the costs at many makers have raised significantly. But if they want to survive, they need to up their games on the quality front. I see what you mean about 5160 and 6150,, because it's springier,, right?? anyway, more euroswords especially are found with these steels in the boutique manufacturer market. but then again,, I don't know , I know more than one commenter who seems to think 1095 is a modern sword steel that ranks a bit higher up,, I think in part because of the edge retention, and in part because modern tempering is better. Also, it's not necessarily pure iron and carbon, you end up with some version of a tool steel that's sold as a 1095, but has some alloying to it that increases its toughness. actually, though, I do think a 1095 is more likely to take a set than a 5160, although the edge retention of the 5160 counts as embarassing by comparison, which is why you don't see so many katanas made of it. rather you are more likely to see a 1095 katana edge, because it makes a much more capable cutting edge. I am not 100% sure, but I have a 1095 jian, and that's my experience exactly. I DID manage to give it a small set near the tip, it's not affecting the swords performance, but if you look for it you can see it,,, however the blade is very sharp, and stays that way. I haven't ever actually honed it, it cuts like a nightmare blade. I guess my impression is that 1095 might need to be a bit thicker than springier steels like 5160, but that the potential to cut things like fabric moves up quite a few points. (I'm pretty sure that lots of competition katanas are something like a 1095, but don't quote me on that, but I should throw it out there so that if someone knows they can rebuttal). So,, basically, I did get the impression that a well done 1095 is a premium sword steel,, but that the buyer should know the difference in steel performances. It has an enormous benefit in edge retention, but costs in that the sword might need to be heavier , and may take a set. I also think that 1095 will actually form cracks earlier than things like 5160,, but in THIS forum you have ENOUGH people saying use swords correctly, they aren't meant for that, ,, that the edge retention might be worth it. I mean, if you look at the sword I am ordering custom,, it's supposed to be an inch thick. Now, everyone is going to say that's a troll sword. Now, I'm not an internet troll,, just a genetic one. (uh, those stories go back before the internet, and the picture looks like me in EVERY example UNTIL the toy trolls came out in the 90's, which "re-imaged" what trolls look like to be cuter, because they are supposed to be ugly. ,, but for every story BEFORE those toy cuties came out, spitting image right here, I'm the real thing.) ,,, so it makes sense that I desire a troll sword. I think it's going to be 1065 or roundabouts. It should be so thick it won't matter except the very tip. Once the tip breaks off though, it won't matter even a little. here's what it should end up looking like I think. Yeah from what I heard 1095 can be hardened to a higher degree for sure, but then it would be more prone to chip or crack when it is. But like you said there are variants of 1095 out there. Speaking of which, I really haven't paid much attention to what steel makers are using for competition grade katanas, but I believe I have heard of some are made of K120c, SGT, and some lower tier products are using 1075 and 5160, 9260 and maybe even T10 (close to 1095). I'm not sure who's using 1095 for performance or competition swords lately. But do you know any custom maker using 1095 for Euro style swords? I only know Ryanswords and their outlets are using that for the budget market. In the US, practically all the premium makers are using 6150 (Angus Trim is using 5160, John Lundemo is using S7!). In Europe, most custom makers I know are all using 51CRv4, which is more or less equivalent to 6150, including Maciej Kopciuch, Damian Sulowski, Mateusz Sulowski, etc. I know makers in UK like to use EN45/47. I understand that some knifemakers uses 1095, though I think that's changing too as so many new steels like M390, S35VN, M4, S110V have been just rolling over OG steels like 1095 in terms of edge retention. But then again, these steels are probably not great for swords with long blades. This custom sword link creates longsword length fantasy swords, right? It probably will be OK if heat treated well. I own a longsword with 1095 steel and it's fine doing regular cutting, and I like its rigidity. Probably not very durable but I'm not planning on abusing it anyway. BTW I like fantasy sword concepts too. Other than historical swords, I really fancy the idea of orcish swords. But I guess they are still one step away from troll swords =D And one inch thick? You mean in the concept art (which is pretty common to have swords as thick as a brick), or for real? |
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 12, 2021 4:31:35 GMT
I see what you mean about 5160 and 6150,, because it's springier,, right?? anyway, more euroswords especially are found with these steels in the boutique manufacturer market. but then again,, I don't know , I know more than one commenter who seems to think 1095 is a modern sword steel that ranks a bit higher up,, I think in part because of the edge retention, and in part because modern tempering is better. Also, it's not necessarily pure iron and carbon, you end up with some version of a tool steel that's sold as a 1095, but has some alloying to it that increases its toughness. actually, though, I do think a 1095 is more likely to take a set than a 5160, although the edge retention of the 5160 counts as embarassing by comparison, which is why you don't see so many katanas made of it. rather you are more likely to see a 1095 katana edge, because it makes a much more capable cutting edge. I am not 100% sure, but I have a 1095 jian, and that's my experience exactly. I DID manage to give it a small set near the tip, it's not affecting the swords performance, but if you look for it you can see it,,, however the blade is very sharp, and stays that way. I haven't ever actually honed it, it cuts like a nightmare blade. I guess my impression is that 1095 might need to be a bit thicker than springier steels like 5160, but that the potential to cut things like fabric moves up quite a few points. (I'm pretty sure that lots of competition katanas are something like a 1095, but don't quote me on that, but I should throw it out there so that if someone knows they can rebuttal). So,, basically, I did get the impression that a well done 1095 is a premium sword steel,, but that the buyer should know the difference in steel performances. It has an enormous benefit in edge retention, but costs in that the sword might need to be heavier , and may take a set. I also think that 1095 will actually form cracks earlier than things like 5160,, but in THIS forum you have ENOUGH people saying use swords correctly, they aren't meant for that, ,, that the edge retention might be worth it. I mean, if you look at the sword I am ordering custom,, it's supposed to be an inch thick. Now, everyone is going to say that's a troll sword. Now, I'm not an internet troll,, just a genetic one. (uh, those stories go back before the internet, and the picture looks like me in EVERY example UNTIL the toy trolls came out in the 90's, which "re-imaged" what trolls look like to be cuter, because they are supposed to be ugly. ,, but for every story BEFORE those toy cuties came out, spitting image right here, I'm the real thing.) ,,, so it makes sense that I desire a troll sword. I think it's going to be 1065 or roundabouts. It should be so thick it won't matter except the very tip. Once the tip breaks off though, it won't matter even a little. here's what it should end up looking like I think. Yeah from what I heard 1095 can be hardened to a higher degree for sure, but then it would be more prone to chip or crack when it is. But like you said there are variants of 1095 out there. Speaking of which, I really haven't paid much attention to what steel makers are using for competition grade katanas, but I believe I have heard of some are made of K120c, SGT, and some lower tier products are using 1075 and 5160, 9260 and maybe even T10 (close to 1095). I'm not sure who's using 1095 for performance or competition swords lately. But do you know any custom maker using 1095 for Euro style swords? I only know Ryanswords and their outlets are using that for the budget market. In the US, practically all the premium makers are using 6150 (Angus Trim is using 5160, John Lundemo is using S7!). In Europe, most custom makers I know are all using 51CRv4, which is more or less equivalent to 6150, including Maciej Kopciuch, Damian Sulowski, Mateusz Sulowski, etc. I know makers in UK like to use EN45/47. I understand that some knifemakers uses 1095, though I think that's changing too as so many new steels like M390, S35VN, M4, S110V have been just rolling over OG steels like 1095 in terms of edge retention. But then again, these steels are probably not great for swords with long blades. This custom sword link creates longsword length fantasy swords, right? It probably will be OK if heat treated well. I own a longsword with 1095 steel and it's fine doing regular cutting, and I like its rigidity. Probably not very durable but I'm not planning on abusing it anyway. BTW I like fantasy sword concepts too. Other than historical swords, I really fancy the idea of orcish swords. But I guess they are still one step away from troll swords =D And one inch thick? You mean in the concept art (which is pretty common to have swords as thick as a brick), or for real? no, i dont know any 1095 euroswords. actually until recently I was running on 1095 makes knives but they rust and break, but it's an affordable way to make a really good knife that will take actually a lot of abuse. Del Tin uses a "chrovan", which is a 1095 for kabar knives,, but having chromium vandium doesn't MAKE it 1095, I just know that it is added to 1095 for kabar knives. on to my troll sword,,, yes, i mean 1 inch thick. I considered requesting more, but upon careful deliberation, I settled on I better start small. From what I can tell in the line art, I can expect the blade to be about 2 inches wide,,, but the smith will not be making to a specific diagram, they have the general idea and are going to make a sword that should roughly fit the description. That means it might be thinner by the time I get it, or it might be thicker, but that is unlikely, most likely it will be thinner, because I am under the impression it will be a challenge to result in such a thick blade, the smith will go for it, miss, and be like, well, that's what it is. If that happens, it shouldn't be the end of the world, it will still be in the right direction, and BE one of the swords I "bucket listed". I didn't bucket list very many. Actually, only one, but it has many renditions and if it looks like I can get a collection I will. it is absolutely critical that the sword does not have a tang. If it has a tang, it is not on the list. THe most fundamental criteria is that the sword does not have a tang, and that it is beefy like a crowbar if not more. After that, there are several shapes and tapers I am interested in experimenting with. The troll sword is not designed to win a fencing match, be affordable, or fit nicely into any particular battlefield strategy. Instead it is fundamentally designed on my childhood experience with toy swords and wallhangers. You have to understand that I come from a place that didn't have many swords around. They were in museums, and of course some people displayed them at festivals, but what I got to hold and play with were not real swords, and not real sword steel. This should be a pretty common experience worldwide, as swords are often illegal, but also taboo, and especially they are expensive and dangerous for children. The common response I can imagine (and was also mine), is that I just craved the experience of holding a sword that felt usable, durable, and could take abuse. So, I decided that I didn't understand why even in the modern era, there was not one single example of a sword that was made from a single piece of steel, no tang, no handle parts, just fat mongrel steel that emerges into a blade. Swords also have this "fantasy" aspect, where they are capable of things in our imagination that when you hold a product you purchased, they simply cannot do. If you encountered a barricaded wooden door, you cannot use your sword on it. It will break. If you need to dig a trench, or pit, or into a wall foundation,,, you cannot use your sword for that. It will not survive, but ALSO, it will not have any effect. When digging, much digging can be done with your hands alone, but you need a way to break up the pack and rocks. a crowbar can work wonders, and I have used a crowbar to dig many a hole in rocky, concrete rubbly ground. You just pry the rocks out, and stab the packed dirt into clumps, and then you can pull them out with a shovel or your hands. (or your helmet) But, my troll sword should allow me to break into buildings, break into cars, break into some kinds of safe, destroy computers, disable equipment, disable vehicles, destabilize roads, destabilize bridges, destabilize buildings, penetrate heavy armor, destroy weapons, dig trenches, dig into wall, break apart stone walls, ,, in general it should perform to some degree at any form of demolition you can imagine. In the modern world, my enemy will be armed with a gun, and I won't win with a sword unless I would be able to win with just any sword. The least likely scenario to occur is that I will encounter another swordsman, and then need to fight them and kill them. In strife the only enemy will be an army or an aggressive militia, and neither encounter is survivable on my own. But, as a worker, the sword will compliment any other form of tool I might find myself with. (I do have a zombie tools sharkalope for this sort of fantasy scenario at present, I think it would be pretty good overall). I need to be able to use a sledgehammer to pound my sword in between blocks, and in between boards, I need to be able to pound it back out again, I need to be able to pry with it using all of my might, and all of my friends with me. I need to stick it in somewhere, like under a post holding up a building, and it works like a wedge. I need to use it for post-apocalyptic construction, and pre-apocalyptic destruction, but I will never need to fence. It will be more dramatic than a zombie tools, and be fit for none other than,,,, a real, , with the bloodline of the ancients, , troll. Remember grimlock. |
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Post by warriorpoet on Mar 14, 2021 15:09:51 GMT
Tsm,
Have you looked into scorpion swords?
I asked about their baggies orc sword in another post and folks basically commented they are thick continuous steel pry bars. That might be what you're after.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2021 16:46:59 GMT
My BCI sword of Danu is as robust as a sting style sword gets and I would never do any of this stuff with it lol
Yea I'm definitely gonna vote on scorpion swords for this one
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 14, 2021 17:35:18 GMT
Tsm, Have you looked into scorpion swords? I asked about their baggies orc sword in another post and folks basically commented they are thick continuous steel pry bars. That might be what you're after. they have handle scales,, instead that would be continuous metal. Also, instead of being so thin as to require handle scales, it would taper out to the thickness of a handle, so it would have some serious distal taper to result in a flatter tip, but it would also require some hollow grinding to make for a useful edge in the foible. so, although the utility of the scorpion swords is not in question, it's not actually the continuous metal I have imagined. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2021 18:22:15 GMT
I'm not really sure I understand what you are looking for. If you are imagining yourself using a sledge hammer on it, it doesn't matter what kind of edge you have. BCI makes some great leaf bladed though, if you are a fan of hollow grinds distil taper, and robustness.
I dunno who does full metal handles though
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 14, 2021 19:08:17 GMT
I'm not really sure I understand what you are looking for. If you are imagining yourself using a sledge hammer on it, it doesn't matter what kind of edge you have. BCI makes some great leaf bladed though, if you are a fan of hollow grinds distil taper, and robustness. I dunno who does full metal handles though no one. WEll, you can buy a cold-chisel. I did that before. Also you can buy digging bars,, which are sick. Actually digging bars are the legit sickness. It's hard to even like swords when you like digging bars. Then again, you can't really dig. I mean, some people live out in the sticks, and could dig on their lawn. But living in the city, you would need to have a job digging to dig. And even if you dig up your lawn (which technically you need permission from the city to do, and need to hire a surveyor to come and approve your digging etc.) , how long can that really go on?? a month?? after that, you will need to leave your lawn alone, because that's also the law. YOu can't just make your lawn into a minecraft pit. at least with swords you can use them. (on targets. ). I mean, maybe you could purchase some dirt, put it in a pool on your driveway, and dig there, but it's just not the same thing. Now you can dig up your driveway (if you have one, which I don't), and build a new one. But honestly, driveway destruction doesn't require a digging bar. You can optionally use one to break the chunks that you sledge apart from the wire,,, but you can also use an ordinary prybar, and a few extra sledge hits. If you've never broken up some concrete with a big sledgehammer, I recommend it. Lots of people use modern power tools, to "jackhammer" up the concrete. In your mind, if you have never experienced it, you would think you can't understand how a hammer is the way. BUT,,, one big kaboom, and it's like cracks on a frozen lake. Then, a few more whacks, and the slabs are loosening up, and you can likely start to pull some out. Then, while the jackhammer is busy making tiny pieces of dust, you can pull the whole driveway up in pieces that are right at the limit of what you can lift, meaning it's over fast. anyway, as they say, I digress,,,,, I'm not trying to get the proper weapon. I have a few swords that are good for winning the poke fight, and a few swords that are for winning the disable in one strike fight,, but my interest in metal shapes goes beyond the duel . I want what is essentially a "sword cold-chisel". Something that is huge, works like a sword, works like a giant stake, works like a digging bar, works like a demolition bar, , something that Thor would carry. Something like hemans sword, which is equally one solid piece construction, (the cartoon one, not the modern reproductions). On that note, , I would like to get a heman sword,, however it would need to be scaled down to about 30" in total. Then I think I could wield it. |
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Post by randomnobody on Mar 14, 2021 22:36:37 GMT
For the record, Hanwei has made two swords that were fully forged from a single billet, hilt and all. First was their Qi jian, then the Trondheim viking sword. I can only find the latter still available, but it's too small for my liking art 30" overall. kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2296Historically, "whole steel" weapons were fairly common in the middle-eastern world, particularly the Indian subcontinent. That said, if you're really wanting a sword as stupidly-thick (or as the internet would call her, dummythicc) there's that one guy whose name I can never remember, who made all the giant anime and videogame swords (like the Buster Sword and Guts' Dragonslayer) and then used them to destroy pallets. I want to say I've heard he's stopped because it ruined his back... |
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 14, 2021 22:53:22 GMT
For the record, Hanwei has made two swords that were fully forged from a single billet, hilt and all. First was their Qi jian, then the Trondheim viking sword. I can only find the latter still available, but it's too small for my liking art 30" overall. kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2296Historically, "whole steel" weapons were fairly common in the middle-eastern world, particularly the Indian subcontinent. That said, if you're really wanting a sword as stupidly-thick (or as the internet would call her, dummythicc) there's that one guy whose name I can never remember, who made all the giant anime and videogame swords (like the Buster Sword and Guts' Dragonslayer) and then used them to destroy pallets. I want to say I've heard he's stopped because it ruined his back... micheal chthulu or something. |
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Post by randomnobody on Mar 14, 2021 22:54:29 GMT
For the record, Hanwei has made two swords that were fully forged from a single billet, hilt and all. First was their Qi jian, then the Trondheim viking sword. I can only find the latter still available, but it's too small for my liking art 30" overall. kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2296Historically, "whole steel" weapons were fairly common in the middle-eastern world, particularly the Indian subcontinent. That said, if you're really wanting a sword as stupidly-thick (or as the internet would call her, dummythicc) there's that one guy whose name I can never remember, who made all the giant anime and videogame swords (like the Buster Sword and Guts' Dragonslayer) and then used them to destroy pallets. I want to say I've heard he's stopped because it ruined his back... micheal chthulu or something. That's the one. I was thinking "Mike something" but blanking on the rest. Only person I've ever known to take "huge swords" seriously. |
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 17, 2021 5:31:14 GMT
micheal chthulu or something. That's the one. I was thinking "Mike something" but blanking on the rest. Only person I've ever known to take "huge swords" seriously. technically , though, I'm not looking for huge. I'm looking for overbuilt, and then actually REDUCED in size to make the overbuilt ness manageable. So I do also want a heman sword that is solid all the way through, and forged as a single piece of steel,,, but rather that being enormous, I want it whatever size it is that it's mass is manageable. So, instead of being a huge sword fit to a huge person,,, I am a small person, and would need something only marginally longer than a gladius, which would certainly be under 20lbs, almost all of which would be just out in front of the hand. of course, trying to explain the idea of miniaturizing the sword so that it can be so overbuilt and thick like the cartoon looks, ,, it does feel like a brick wall. everyone is hell bent on telling ME what a proper sword is,, no one is trying to see a product that a customer will buy. this is certainly in part due to the costs (which should be dropping like a rock) for this sort of thing. I wouldn't be able to commit to buy until I see the product might be available, then prepare, possibly for years, to buy it. Not that long ago EVERYONE was making swords from stock removal, and maybe india was forging them. A bar of steel that is 2 inches thick and the length of a sword is REALLY expensive compared to a knife billet. Then you have to stock removal about half the bar. Forging is different,, but then forging something thick is ALSO expensive,, people can use hammers on thin blade steel and be done in minutes. Forged in fire won't even try to make something like that. micheal chchtithlglualualuulu does it and ONLY makes swords that are monstrous. they are completely useless in every way. But,, it IS imaginable to have a piece of metal in the shape I'm describing that would be quick in the hand. actually, I think it would look like hemans sword, but with a size that is manageable, about like a gladius. |
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Post by randomnobody on Mar 17, 2021 6:49:35 GMT
I meant to say that he would likely have the materials, tools, and willingness to see your project through, because nobody else will.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Mar 17, 2021 9:30:27 GMT
www.michaelcthulhu.com/Irish Mike is still going strong and making commissions. I'm sure he'd be the man for the job, but you're talking serious commission money to do that much forging and stock removal on such a thick piece. You should go for it, tsmspace. You've been talking about this long enough. Commission it or make it yourself. Who cares what the others say? You know it's not what a real sword is like, but if it's what you want that's fine.
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Post by tsmspace on Mar 17, 2021 18:23:52 GMT
www.michaelcthulhu.com/Irish Mike is still going strong and making commissions. I'm sure he'd be the man for the job, but you're talking serious commission money to do that much forging and stock removal on such a thick piece. You should go for it, tsmspace. You've been talking about this long enough. Commission it or make it yourself. Who cares what the others say? You know it's not what a real sword is like, but if it's what you want that's fine. I ordered my first attempt at buying one. the thing is I don't have "specs". See, lots of people say, send me a technical drawing with all of the dimensions,,, but I don't. instead, I roughly outline the concept. So, there's lots of specific styles that I want to ultimately have, but anything that falls in the ballpark is acceptable,, and I simply don't have the skills to provide a technical drawing. If I give a technical drawing that isn't appropriately detailed, then they will make that, and it will be wrong, but if I find someone who is willing to use their imagination based on my description,, then I think pretty much whatever they make is going to be good, there's almost anything that they can make as long as it's basically the size. so, for now, that's what I've found, is someone who is willing to basically "wing it". it should be about a month, but I've already paid for it. |
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