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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2021 17:06:08 GMT
I am working on a project and I need advice on how to correct some deep scratches I put into a blade with a power sander. If you want to comment, please understand that I am a total amateur, which should be evident by the situation I am in and the fact that I soliciting for advice. So please don't scold me.
I modified the geometry of a blade I purchased from a hexagonal profile to a lenticular profile. I also removed about 500g worth of material to change the blade from a uniform thickness to a blade with distal taper. I did this VERY slowly with sanding belts and files. I cooled the blade with water before it got too hot over the course of this process. I put in about 12 hours of work so that I would not wreck the tempering.
Now that I am satisfied with the overall mass and weight distribution of the blade, in addition to the tapering and the profile, I need to polish out the surface scratches. The coarsest grit I used on the power sander was 60 grit. I have deep scratches running vertically down the length of the blade. How do I polish them out? I started using 80 grit today, but this is obviously not going to work.
Do I avoid using a power sander altogether and do this by hand? I don't mind doing it by hand and would relish the job. Do I begin with 60 grit sandpaper and polish down the length of the blade with horizontal strokes until the scratches are gone? Do I use a coarser grit? The only medium I am comfortable using is sandpaper. Polishing stones are not something I am comfortable using.
Having said all this, I am ultimately going for an aged, pitted, look with heavy patination when all is said and done. So I don't want this blade to be too polished, but I assume that I should begin with a flat surface prior to etching/patination. I have a picture below to show you what the current state is. I would greatly appreciate any advice.
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Post by pellius on Jan 31, 2021 18:28:37 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2021 18:34:17 GMT
Thanks for reminding me of this thread. I am familiar with it, but I am having trouble adapting the methodologies to my current situation, which is a very wide blade with a lenticular profile. It's 3.5 wide at the widest point. Would you recommend I cut a block of wood and attach sandpaper to it?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jan 31, 2021 18:39:34 GMT
I think you should have done more of your final shaping with finer grits. I’ve used course grits to speed things up and then spent much time getting rid of the course and deep scratches left behind. You might continue with progressively finer grits on the belt but in the end it will be hand work. To do this I recommend using a compressible backing, a mouse pad for instance, with wet/dry sandpaper. The starting grit would depend but probably 220 with a light oil might be a starter. I would suggest leaving the paper stationary moving the blade in a direction parallel to the long axis. Below is a photo of a sabre that I reduced the foible sufficient to move the PoB ½” closer. One day I’ll go back and reduce it more. As you are finding out, that's a lot of work.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2021 18:42:44 GMT
I think you should have done more of your final shaping with finer grits. I’ve used course grits to speed things up and then spent much time getting rid of the course and deep scratches left behind. You might continue with progressively finer grits on the belt but in the end it will be hand work. To do this I recommend using a compressible backing, a mouse pad for instance, with wet/dry sandpaper. The starting grit would depend but probably 220 with a light oil might be a starter. I would suggest leaving the paper stationary moving the blade in a direction parallel to the long axis. Below is a photo of a sabre that I reduced the foible sufficient to move the PoB ½” closer. One day I’ll go back and reduce it more. As you are finding out, that's a lot of work. I do have a handheld sander that I have only used for wood working projects. I agree with you that I should have used finer grits on the belt first, but I assumed I would be able to remove everything easily by hand. I was definitely wrong. The sander I have only vibrates, so it won't oscilate like a dremel. I could give that a try.
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Post by pellius on Jan 31, 2021 18:48:26 GMT
Using a block should work fine, but the paper will foul quickly. At the higher grits, you may spend more time prepping the block than polishing the blade.
Since you already went with power tools, I would think a buffing wheel with a good abrasive compound would be the fastest most effective method. Just be careful not to wash out any edges/details.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2021 18:50:41 GMT
I don't have a bench grinder at the moment. So that limits me as well.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jan 31, 2021 18:56:42 GMT
Yup. Welcome to the club. 😊 It would not hurt to try your wood sander to see how it goes, but in the end it will be via hand. Definitely do not use a dremel or any motor tool of that type. With a lenticular blade using a compressible backing will affect more of the surface at once than a flat hard backing.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jan 31, 2021 19:09:51 GMT
I just lay my paper on the mouse pad, not much prep time other than trimming or folding the paper. Use a light oil, I use WD-40, to prevent the paper from clogging. And when it does I blotting with a paper towel will soak up the metal saturated WD-40, then spray another coat on the paper. I wouldn’t worry about not having a bench grinder or buffing wheel. I wouldn’t use one if I had it.
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Post by pellius on Jan 31, 2021 19:16:20 GMT
I just lay my paper on the mouse pad, not much prep time other than trimming or folding the paper. Use a light oil, I use WD-40, to prevent the paper from clogging. And when it does I blotting with a paper towel will soak up the metal saturated WD-40, then spray another coat on the paper. I wouldn’t worry about not having a bench grinder or buffing wheel. I wouldn’t use one if I had it. I think I’m going to try your mouse pad method next time. I like this idea, especially if the purpose is to address the overall finish rather than mitigate pitting at a particular spot.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jan 31, 2021 20:47:54 GMT
I just lay my paper on the mouse pad, not much prep time other than trimming or folding the paper. Use a light oil, I use WD-40, to prevent the paper from clogging. And when it does I blotting with a paper towel will soak up the metal saturated WD-40, then spray another coat on the paper. I wouldn’t worry about not having a bench grinder or buffing wheel. I wouldn’t use one if I had it. I think I’m going to try your mouse pad method next time. I like this idea, especially if the purpose is to address the overall finish rather than mitigate pitting at a particular spot. Give it a fair trial and then let me know your opinion. Mouse pads come with different compressibility. Choose one that you think is appropriate.
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Alan Schiff
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Post by Alan Schiff on Feb 2, 2021 5:57:18 GMT
The key is to use a succession of grits, moving from coarser to finer. What type of belt sander were you using? Belts of varying grits are readily available. If the legwork was done at 60 grit, the 80 should polish that out, then move to something like 120. For a satin finish I normally go to 220 on the sander and then hand polish with 120, 180, and 220 grit wet/dry paper.
Hope that helps, Alan
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2021 19:51:09 GMT
Question: is there anyone out there whom I can pay to polish this sword blade? I'm starting to get a bit fed up with my lack of ability.
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Post by Lionhardt on Mar 1, 2021 0:47:27 GMT
I could do it for you. Sent you a message.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2021 17:19:28 GMT
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