|
Post by Arthur Dayne on Nov 10, 2020 20:14:18 GMT
Does anyone else use a similar or alternative method to protect the fuller lines when using Scotchbrite gray pads to remove scratches/polish up swords?
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 10, 2020 20:27:40 GMT
I haven’t had the need as of yet. However, that sounds like a good idea. When restoring old rifle stocks the finger grooves were tricky not to wash out. I have not used Scothbrite either but I imagine it would be used held by the fingers similar to sandpaper, a sure way to wash out a groove. One reason for a sanding block.
|
|
|
Post by pellius on Nov 10, 2020 20:35:47 GMT
Good tips here: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/52806/antique-blades-cleaning-polishing-uhlanTaping the ridge line can help, but it isn’t like painting. I wouldn’t rely on the tape itself to define the edge. Like Uhlan recommends, I would tape a little *beyond* the transition ridge to protect it (not “define” it), polish, then un-tape and carefully and slowly polish to the ridge line using fine sandpaper over a sanding block. (Uhlan’s tutorial is better than mine.) Please share your project/progress with the forum! Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by pellius on Nov 10, 2020 20:43:00 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2020 21:12:20 GMT
Good tips here: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/52806/antique-blades-cleaning-polishing-uhlanTaping the ridge line can help, but it isn’t like painting. I wouldn’t rely on the tape itself to define the edge. Like Uhlan recommends, I would tape a little *beyond* the transition ridge to protect it (not “define” it), polish, then un-tape and carefully and slowly polish to the ridge line using fine sandpaper over a sanding block. (Uhlan’s tutorial is better than mine.) Please share your project/progress with the forum! Cheers. I would second this and I would also add that make sure you sand correctly to not leave scratches, and take your time. Tape is meant to be a mask not a shield so make sure your not sanding off the tape line and into the metal we’re you don’t want too. cheers
|
|
|
Post by Arthur Dayne on Nov 10, 2020 21:36:38 GMT
Thanks for the tips guys, bookmarked.
|
|
|
Post by Arthur Dayne on Aug 13, 2021 20:12:57 GMT
Alright so after messing around with masking tape I decided semprini it, this is too much hassle and pain in the ass to do on regular basis. The masking tape lines have to be perfect: Perfectly Straight when needed, Perfectly following curves of the fullers so that it doesn't look ugly after polishing sword.
If the masking tape doesn't follow fuller and you make like 12/24/36 passes or something the shiny polished areas will magnify the mistakes made earlier and you end up having to go over the whole sword again to even the satin finish out.
I threw out all the masking tape, used a lower table (slightly below waist level), laid the sword down straight, busted out new Scotchbrite gray pads with some Breakfree CLP oil and pressed down really hard (not on the fuller transition lines but next to them) and went from guard to tip as straight as possible applying firm consistent pressure and got better looking results.
It's easier to keep the polishing consistently straight and firm if the table is lower because your whole body is over it and can make 1 straight pass at a time for most or all of the blade length. If you stop midway and continue you lose consistency and differing scratch patterns will show up under bright light. Also light pressure doesn't do semprini, press firmly and curse if necessary.
|
|
tera
Moderator
Posts: 1,650
|
Post by tera on Aug 14, 2021 0:33:08 GMT
This may sound crazy, but you could make a re-usable guard with thermoplastic, like Instamorph.
Get it hot to the point of being clear in boiling water, roll it out to approximate fuller thickness, then pack it into the (well oiled, so it won't stick) fuller. Intentionally use too much so you can press down with a flat surface to flow over the fuller's edge slightly, to protect it. Use a ruler or straight edge to define that barrier and let cool.
You now have a plastic fuller insert custom fit to your sword, designed to protect blade geometry, and you and use it over and over. If it gets worn down, melt it and reform it.
Admittedly high effort up front, but easy re-use later on.
|
|