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Post by wstalcup on Sept 20, 2020 17:03:32 GMT
Hi! so far, what I found that l like the most is this www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=501430&name=Centurion%27s+Gladiusbut can't find any info on what steel type is used any recommendations on a gladius? would like 1) $350 or less 2) great looking scabbard 3) great steel type comparing the 2 swords below, I like how the one on the left: 1) tapers a bit around the middle of blade (but not that important) 2) longer point 3) bigger crossguard as always, thanks so much!
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Sept 20, 2020 17:22:47 GMT
I have the Centurion. It's a nice short sword but absolutely unhistorical for a gladius. Hollow cast metal pommel and guard, dark patina on the blade. Sword and scabbard much darker than in the pictures. The scabbard is well made and good looking. If you want a fantasy gladius it's good, light, nimble and good handling. Steel type is usual Windlass stuff. I see no problem with heat treatment.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Sept 20, 2020 22:00:32 GMT
Some Deepeeka gladii tick all your boxes. Maybe the Fulham Gladius (AH2007) or Tiberius Gladius (AH2008). Kult of Athena has www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AH4209&name=Roman+Maintz+Gladius+with+Embossed+Scabbard in stock at the moment, but I don't think the hilt is as good as the first two; the grip is very long and if one came into my hands, I'd be tempted to shorten it by about 1". Deepeeka uses EN45 (which is close enough to 9260), so "great steel type" for sure. However, Deepeeka heat treatment tends to be on the soft side. Not necessarily a bad thing, since it means the sword will be tougher, and might be close to an ideal spring temper. But this will be at the cost of edge retention. If you care about historical accuracy, Deepeeka is the clear winner in your price range (for some, but not all, of their models). If you don't care about historical accuracy, and you want "better" heat treatment than Deepeeka, you could consider the TFW gladius, at just above your budget: www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=TFW022B - non-waisted blade, plain scabbard, not a large guard, so it doesn't tick all of your boxes, but TFW do good blades, metallurgically-speaking (if only they used traditional blade geometry on their Philippine swords!). Alas, a round grip, but maybe that's an easy DIY fix. More historically accurate than the TFW, even if not up to re-enactor standards like the good Deepeekas, there is Windlass. The Centurion (which you linked) and the Maintz www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=500360 would be the main contenders. Don't worry about their steel - Windlass uses quite acceptable steel, and has good reliable heat treatment (but anyway, they use 1065 for these two gladii according to Museum Replicas).
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pgandy
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Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Sept 20, 2020 22:49:30 GMT
As Timo pointed out 1065 steel is used on the Windlass. It’s been my experience that Windlass’ swords run right around 50 HRC, the knives slightly higher. I’ve never had a problem with their steel.
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 21, 2020 14:44:47 GMT
I have the Centurion. It's a nice short sword but absolutely unhistorical for a gladius. Hollow cast metal pommel and guard, dark patina on the blade. Sword and scabbard much darker than in the pictures. The scabbard is well made and good looking. If you want a fantasy gladius it's good, light, nimble and good handling. Steel type is usual Windlass stuff. I see no problem with heat treatment. thanks! didnt know wasn't historically accurate.. and good to know the metal should be good (enough) I have windlass's sword of roven. its 1060, and not bad, dont know why they dont advertise what metal they use anymore
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 21, 2020 14:50:32 GMT
Some Deepeeka gladii tick all your boxes. Maybe the Fulham Gladius (AH2007) or Tiberius Gladius (AH2008). Kult of Athena has www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AH4209&name=Roman+Maintz+Gladius+with+Embossed+Scabbard in stock at the moment, but I don't think the hilt is as good as the first two; the grip is very long and if one came into my hands, I'd be tempted to shorten it by about 1". Deepeeka uses EN45 (which is close enough to 9260), so "great steel type" for sure. However, Deepeeka heat treatment tends to be on the soft side. Not necessarily a bad thing, since it means the sword will be tougher, and might be close to an ideal spring temper. But this will be at the cost of edge retention. If you care about historical accuracy, Deepeeka is the clear winner in your price range (for some, but not all, of their models). If you don't care about historical accuracy, and you want "better" heat treatment than Deepeeka, you could consider the TFW gladius, at just above your budget: www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=TFW022B - non-waisted blade, plain scabbard, not a large guard, so it doesn't tick all of your boxes, but TFW do good blades, metallurgically-speaking (if only they used traditional blade geometry on their Philippine swords!). Alas, a round grip, but maybe that's an easy DIY fix. More historically accurate than the TFW, even if not up to re-enactor standards like the good Deepeekas, there is Windlass. The Centurion (which you linked) and the Maintz www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=500360 would be the main contenders. Don't worry about their steel - Windlass uses quite acceptable steel, and has good reliable heat treatment (but anyway, they use 1065 for these two gladii according to Museum Replicas). thanks so much for such a thorough explanation! I like the metal used on Roman Gladius with Contrasting Hilt - TFW022B, but wish the scabbard was more decorative
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 21, 2020 14:53:32 GMT
As Timo pointed out 1065 steel is used on the Windlass. It’s been my experience that Windlass’ swords run right around 50 HRC, the knives slightly higher. I’ve never had a problem with their steel. great to hear! so a quick sure on HRC.. it seems like 50 is towards the lower end.. does that mean, not that hard.. but also good meaning not so brittle? thanks!
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Sept 21, 2020 15:07:29 GMT
50 HRC isn't lower end, the 50's are medium hardness. Historical blades often had 30-40 HRC or even softer, many repros have 45 - 50.
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 21, 2020 15:11:48 GMT
50 HRC isn't lower end, the 50's are medium hardness. Historical blades often had 30-40 HRC or even softer, many repros have 45 - 50. ah ok! that answers my question that modern blades must be better than there yesteryears counterparts.. what if a sword had a hardness of of something really high then.. like 80 HRC? would that be bad?
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Sept 21, 2020 16:37:31 GMT
Yes, very brittle, like quartz. Also extremely hard to sharpen.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Sept 21, 2020 17:41:00 GMT
50 HRC isn't lower end, the 50's are medium hardness. Historical blades often had 30-40 HRC or even softer, many repros have 45 - 50. ah ok! that answers my question that modern blades must be better than there yesteryears counterparts.. what if a sword had a hardness of of something really high then.. like 80 HRC? would that be bad? No way would I buy a blade that hard, in fact, I’ve never seen one that hard. And have no desire to go over 60. I’m content with Windlass blades. On my Windlass German Bastard sword I’ve cut through a pig’s leg on two occasions with no damage. I have not tested the hardness on that one but consider it normal for Windlass.
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 26, 2020 15:24:13 GMT
ah ok! that answers my question that modern blades must be better than there yesteryears counterparts.. what if a sword had a hardness of of something really high then.. like 80 HRC? would that be bad? No way would I buy a blade that hard, in fact, I’ve never seen one that hard. And have no desire to go over 60. I’m content with Windlass blades. On my Windlass German Bastard sword I’ve cut through a pig’s leg on two occasions with no damage. I have not tested the hardness on that one but consider it normal for Windlass. Thanks for the info!
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Post by Barahir on Nov 3, 2020 15:58:20 GMT
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