I bought a universal swords saber, am sharpening
Aug 3, 2020 7:59:10 GMT
Post by tsmspace on Aug 3, 2020 7:59:10 GMT
I bought a universal swords 1845 wilkinson light cavalry saber. ,, no sharpening service.
I've been filing it down for a few days. It's getting pretty close. it looks much better now, too,, as the edge was not only blunt, but all over the place. There is one spot that's still in the cutting area where the edge is sort of, sunk in,,, anyway it looks worn away. It was like that already. but,,, all in all it looks like it should perform regular for what it is. The sword has a steel scabbard, which is pretty tight on it. I don't know what its' going to do to the edge when I finish,, but universal swords already doesn't hold it's bite all that well based on my other one. (windlass is better).
it was advertised as 7mm at the base,,, I'm picking up a solid 3+.
outside of the wavy edge, which is all thicker in some places at first, (I'm doing more removal in some spots than others), it does look nice. since it's not for me to have a weapon, I think it will be fine about the thickness, but it's true the POB is pretty far up the neck.
I bought the sword because although I'm able to use my artillery sword to cut bottles, , not very well. It's pretty hard to cut with it. In part it's because the sword is short thick and heavy, and in part the edge retention could be better, and in part my removal could be better, I could thin it some more towards the edge. The saber is already lighter, thinner, longer, and curved slightly. So,, I imagine it will cut better, but still offer plenty of feedback about how well I swing, since it's not going to be so incredibly sharp that you don't notice plastic bottles.
actually I tried to buy a windlass saber,,, but I goofed. The short story is, I went for a used one, but I told him to send me one that's not for sharpening, it was late so I didn't pick up on that till morning, then, I tried to intercept the package so he could send a different one,,, but now,,, I'm basically approaching new prices after intercept and second shipping, and I dont' even know if intercept is going to work. If I had just done a little more homework looking up the models, I would have figured out the steel was not standard windlass steel ,, it was the hutton dueling saber,, but I was just looking at , it was a windlass and a lightweight saber, so must be good. The dueling sabers are a different temper according to the website, so I just don't think it's going to sharpen the same as a standard windlass.
Anyway, the whole objective of this string was to look for people with experience cutting with universal swords sabers. I'm interested to hear what people have to say,, how they sharpened it or was it the kOA service, what is that like, etc.
I've been filing it down for a few days. It's getting pretty close. it looks much better now, too,, as the edge was not only blunt, but all over the place. There is one spot that's still in the cutting area where the edge is sort of, sunk in,,, anyway it looks worn away. It was like that already. but,,, all in all it looks like it should perform regular for what it is. The sword has a steel scabbard, which is pretty tight on it. I don't know what its' going to do to the edge when I finish,, but universal swords already doesn't hold it's bite all that well based on my other one. (windlass is better).
it was advertised as 7mm at the base,,, I'm picking up a solid 3+.
outside of the wavy edge, which is all thicker in some places at first, (I'm doing more removal in some spots than others), it does look nice. since it's not for me to have a weapon, I think it will be fine about the thickness, but it's true the POB is pretty far up the neck.
I bought the sword because although I'm able to use my artillery sword to cut bottles, , not very well. It's pretty hard to cut with it. In part it's because the sword is short thick and heavy, and in part the edge retention could be better, and in part my removal could be better, I could thin it some more towards the edge. The saber is already lighter, thinner, longer, and curved slightly. So,, I imagine it will cut better, but still offer plenty of feedback about how well I swing, since it's not going to be so incredibly sharp that you don't notice plastic bottles.
actually I tried to buy a windlass saber,,, but I goofed. The short story is, I went for a used one, but I told him to send me one that's not for sharpening, it was late so I didn't pick up on that till morning, then, I tried to intercept the package so he could send a different one,,, but now,,, I'm basically approaching new prices after intercept and second shipping, and I dont' even know if intercept is going to work. If I had just done a little more homework looking up the models, I would have figured out the steel was not standard windlass steel ,, it was the hutton dueling saber,, but I was just looking at , it was a windlass and a lightweight saber, so must be good. The dueling sabers are a different temper according to the website, so I just don't think it's going to sharpen the same as a standard windlass.
Anyway, the whole objective of this string was to look for people with experience cutting with universal swords sabers. I'm interested to hear what people have to say,, how they sharpened it or was it the kOA service, what is that like, etc.