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Post by Gwenn on Jun 6, 2020 2:50:26 GMT
I started dancing with a sword about 6 months ago. I know for a fighting sword you never are supposed to touch the blade, but for dancing, the unsharpened portion has to be touched a little bit to pull off several moves. My scimitar was created by a sword maker that does battle ready, display, and dance swords. I guess I naively assumed the metal for a dance sword would be purposed to withstand touch better...but maybe there is no such thing? I admit sword ignorance. All I know is I now have blackish marks where it looks like my fingers have been (and where my pesky teen and husband won't leave my damn sword alone - go buy your own!)
I don't want to damage it. Ideas on best things to try? Also, since I do have to touch the blade - ideas on preventing this issue after I get it clean? The solution would have to be something that does not leave the blade slippery. I don't want to send it flying like a helicopter into an observer's face. It might not be battle sharp, but it would mess someone up pretty good if it hit them.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 6, 2020 5:30:56 GMT
Abrasive stuff for the stain, metal polish, aluminum foil, steel wool, sanding sponges or paper, whatever is sufficient. Then perhaps bluing, electro plating or a sticky laquer.
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Post by MOK on Jun 6, 2020 8:39:29 GMT
Welcome! Yep, the oils on your skin will corrode carbon steel, sometimes literally etching your fingerprints into it. The traditional way to protect steel is to clean and oil it after each use - with very little oil, mind, not enough to make it actually slippery! - much like maintaining a high quality kitchen knife. If that sounds like a hassle, you could try Renaissance Wax, it's a little more work to apply but should last much longer and isn't slippery, either. PS. Well... that, or getting a stainless steel dancing sword.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 6, 2020 13:50:19 GMT
The next sword, if there is a next, try to obtain a stain resistant blade. As it is will only be used as a prop the material is of little importance as long as it is reflective. Getting back to your immediate problem depending on the depth the stains have penetrated would dictate what to use. I’d try a metal polish first. Do not restrict your polishing to the affected areas only but the entire blade. If that doesn’t work sandpaper will but that is a whole different ball game and best not go there, but if necessary repost asking for detailed instructions. As a preventative a wax applied frequently should work. Ren Wax is expensive and not sold everywhere. I’ve found common car paste wax works well. I had a rust issue with one sword that I could not control and wound up using clear finger nail polish that worked. It was a small area in front of the guard and I applied to that area with the brush provided. I was amazed to find that it was so transparent that I could not distinguish the bare metal from the treated. In your case there is probably too much area to cover with that method but a spray can of clear lacquer may do the trick. When either needs replacing wash off with a solvent and reapply. Just a few wild thoughts that came to mind as I’ve not experienced your problem. Good luck. I found this a few minutes later, might be of some interest: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/61137/wax-rust-prevention-folded-steel?page=1&scrollTo=823705
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Post by RickDastardly on Jun 6, 2020 13:50:28 GMT
Once clean, I personally would definitely go with Renaissance Wax, as MOK says. Just make sure the blade is really clean and dry before applying, because it can trap a bit of dirt/moisture under the wax otherwise. The wax will dry; nothing will be slippery.
Andi's suggestion of a 'sticky lacquer' is good too. Technically known as a conformal coating (spray on map protector, for instance). They are basically spray-on plastic coatings. I've used them to protect brass fittings on knives from skin oil corrosion, and electronic circuit boards from moisture.
The wax is probably better though, because both will wear through with touch eventually. Reapplying the conformal coating could look messy compared to wiping more wax on.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jun 6, 2020 14:46:24 GMT
Wax...I have had great success with car paste wax also, and its cheaper than ren-wax. Just realize, once you get the blade cleaned up and waxed, you'll still need to do some maintenance. But wax will help lots.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 7, 2020 13:22:56 GMT
My girlfriend also dances but she uses a cane, at times as a prop. Some years later she briefly took an interest in the flamenco but failed to stick with that one. I was disappointed but when I think of the wardrobe $$$ involved it lessens the disappointment.
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Post by nddave on Jun 8, 2020 12:37:21 GMT
I use a product called Flitz that is a nice non abrasive metal polish that works well for routine cleaning especially after handling the blade or doing cutting exercises. Very simple to apply, just a couple drops on the blade and wipe down the blade with a paper towel or cloth to coat and then with a microfiber wipe off the residue in a polishing motion (circular, think "wax on wax off", lol) until clean and shiny. For darkening that isn't full corrosion or rusting if the the first initial full whipe down doesnt work add a drop to the specific area and repeat the process until it clears up. Issue is the longer you leave the staining and or corrosion the deeper it gets, turing to rust. Stuff is easy to find and is eco-friendly. It can be found at most hardware stores in the metal polish section of the cleaning products isle. For example here it is at home depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Flitz-3-4-oz-Metal-Plastic-and-Fiberglass-Liquid-Polish-Bottle-LQ-04535/205494714
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2020 14:19:01 GMT
Flitz uses aluminum oxide, which is an abrasive. You might regard it as less abrasive than some. Rub it with a finger and you can feel it. go.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000018AA.pdfIt is fine enough an abrasive that I have used it as an interim step when restoring plastic watch "crystals". 800 then 1200 then Flitz then Simi-Chrome then cloth but even just the Flitz finish is still a fine grit. Simi-Chrome will leave a bit of a protectant nature bit not as thorough as paste wax or Ren wax. Cheers GC
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 8, 2020 15:06:48 GMT
All polishes are abrasive, whether brass, aluminium, steel, liquid, or an impregnated cloth. Only the aggressiveness due to the coarseness of the agent used changes.
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Post by alexkjren on Jun 9, 2020 20:04:19 GMT
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