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Post by Bullethead247 on Jun 3, 2020 16:39:53 GMT
Can the ray skin be changed or replaced?
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Post by MOK on Jun 3, 2020 16:52:54 GMT
It depends. Are we talking about an antique military saber, a modern reproduction katana, or what?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2020 17:46:27 GMT
Welcome aboard. The ray skin often used is usually a raw hide that is then soaked and dyed, if that is desired. There was a cool thread posted recently in another section here that includes some of the processes for handling and gluing the skin to the core. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/61067/tsuka-japanThe operative word you might search for is "samegawa" For a good amount of reading, do visit the Japanese section here and for even more, visit www.japaneseswordindex.com/Cheers GC
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2020 17:49:24 GMT
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Post by pellius on Jun 4, 2020 3:20:43 GMT
Along the same lines, is the sharkskin shagreen of 19th Century Euro saber hilts available somewhere?
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Post by pellius on Jun 4, 2020 3:25:46 GMT
Also, Bullethead247 - welcome
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Post by Bullethead247 on Jun 4, 2020 4:25:42 GMT
I'm talking modern katana. I'm thinking about removing a synthetic ray skin and replacing it with genuine. I am worried about ruining the wood on the handle. Is there a proper way of doing it?
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Post by Bullethead247 on Jun 4, 2020 4:31:39 GMT
The sword I'm considering to do the change on is a Hanwei practical elite.
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Post by Bullethead247 on Jun 4, 2020 4:43:45 GMT
I am also considering the purchase of a CAS HANWEI YANONE KATANA BY DRAGON KING SD35330. But I can't find any reviews on it anywhere. Is it 65mn or T-10? I have seen it advertised both ways. Any info or opinions would be appreciated.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 4, 2020 4:51:24 GMT
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2020 5:17:51 GMT
The Hanwei Practical and many others are partial panels, not full wraps. Gentle low heat <200f in the oven will soften any glue and simply lift the panels out. Scrape out residue. Insert panels and wrap. It is a practice and schooling to do the wrapping.
Any customization can be done quickly but doing it cleanly and aesthetically may be a real project.
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Post by MOK on Jun 4, 2020 14:00:40 GMT
Gotta be careful with the heat not to crack or warp the wood. It shouldn't be a problem if the wood is already dried and stabilized like it should be, but if you want to stay safe you can try a blow dryer at first, see if that suffices to soften the glue (it may not; I've never done this to a Hanwei and don't know what exact kind of glue they use). And, of course, once you have the new rayskin in place, then the real hard work of rewrapping the ito begins... Also, indeed, welcome!
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