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Post by dap90 on Apr 5, 2020 14:25:19 GMT
Hello,
I have a 2006 Hanwei Side Sword that needs repair. While making a new wood grip to replace the plastic one, the threads on the tang stripped and I can no longer attached the pommel.
The threads are damaged enough I don’t think the tang can be re-threaded and at least the threaded portion will need to be replaced. The tang was threaded only on the two narrow sides. The other 2 sides are flat. That didn’t create a lot of threaded area and I guess I either over tightened and/or my repeated test fitting just wore the threads down.
Does anyone know a way to repair/replace the threaded portion? Can anyone recommend someone to do that work? Or, let me know if this is a lost cause and I’m in the market for a new sword.
Much appreciated.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Apr 5, 2020 15:39:12 GMT
I’ve not done this myself but might suggest J-B Weld to build up the tang and then rethread. You would need a die the same as the original threads of tang. Also build up J-B Weld a little at a time so it’s not too big. With this method you can also build up the flat sides so they’re round and you will have more thread holding pommel. Others may have better ideas but I think this will work.
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Post by treeslicer on Apr 6, 2020 7:49:03 GMT
Could you cross-drill through the pommel and tang (using a drill press), and drive a steel pin through them?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Apr 6, 2020 17:23:33 GMT
If you use Paul’s suggestion, and I too don’t know if it will work but will be your cheapest way out, thread the original nut or one of the same thread size onto the threaded shaft as far as it will go. Then apply a little J-B and after setting and before drying back the nut out. Repeat as necessary. If this works it save you the price of a die. If not, not much is lost.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Apr 6, 2020 19:38:40 GMT
If you use Paul’s suggestion, and I too don’t know if it will work but will be your cheapest way out, thread the original nut or one of the same thread size onto the threaded shaft as far as it will go. Then apply a little J-B and after setting and before drying back the nut out. Repeat as necessary. If this works it save you the price of a die. If not, not much is lost. Good idea pgandy, if there is any thread left that would save the cost of a die. Definitely want to back but off before it dries or you might be stuck with a bigger problem.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Apr 6, 2020 21:06:38 GMT
If you use Paul’s suggestion, and I too don’t know if it will work but will be your cheapest way out, thread the original nut or one of the same thread size onto the threaded shaft as far as it will go. Then apply a little J-B and after setting and before drying back the nut out. Repeat as necessary. If this works it save you the price of a die. If not, not much is lost. Good idea pgandy, if there is any thread left that would save the cost of a die. Definitely want to back but off before it dries or you might be stuck with a bigger problem. Whatever the outcome keep us posted. Good luck.
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Post by dap90 on Apr 11, 2020 19:58:18 GMT
I forgot to check the forum for responses. I did some reading on JB Weld and I'm not sure it'll have enough strength to do what I need. It'll pretty much make up the threads at this point.
Maybe I should see if I can put a metal sleeve on the threaded end, fill the void with some high strength epoxy and then thread the sleeve to match the pommel.
If I ever get it figured out or end up ruining it, I'll let you know. Thanks for the replies.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Apr 11, 2020 20:37:00 GMT
That might work. Good luck.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Apr 12, 2020 21:56:21 GMT
Perhaps you could use a threading die about 1 - 2 mm down from the windlass M6 or equivalent and then use a thin sheet steel pipe inside the pommel, and cut new threads to the corresponding threading size?
I used M3 threading on a fencing sabre for hema and it never gave up.
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Post by illustry on Apr 17, 2020 2:03:40 GMT
Helicoil
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