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Post by bebut on Jan 12, 2020 18:48:17 GMT
Intro and disclosure- I purchased this with my own funds from KOA and have no financial ties to manufacturer or vendor. I bought it as a replica of a big Bowie knife suitable for combat or field use. Historical accuracy- Windlass states that it is a replica of a period Bowie from England made for the US trade. They stamped it with both the Imperial and Windlass stamps, although the Imperial stamp was quite sloppy. I have not seen photos of the original but it is certainly within the designs of the period. Windlass says it was designed with a slim handle profile for conceilability. Sheath is also a design suitable for concealed carry. Initial impression- It had a nice design and balance. It is the type of Bowie with a relatively long and thin blade suitable for both slashing and stabbing. The sheath was adequate but would probably have to be replaced with a more modern design for field use. Stats and components- Windlass states it is tempered high carbon steel. I went to look up the stats online but it appears to be a discontinued model. It has a 10 inch blade and a good weight proportional to its size. POB is just in front of the guard. It has a substantial false edge that would be very easy to sharpen. I bought it with the factory edge and it was adequate. A little touch up on a fine stone or ceramic rod would bring it up to normal standards of use. Handling and testing- The handle is rectanular which is good for indexing the position of the cutting edge. The handle edges are sharp bordering on painful. The general feel is it would be better for stabbing or slicing meat but still usefull as a general field knife. I chopped a little on and old 2 x 4 and used it to slice some vegetables. Other than the sharp handle edges it worked well. Pros- Nice design and balance and generally period accurate. Cons- Workmanship is poor both wood to metal and metal to metal. A brown liquid filler was used to fill the gaps. Holding it up to the light I can see a 3/8 inch gap between blade and handle, making me estimate that it has a stick tang not much wider than 1/2 inch. Windlass went thru a lot of effort to make this look like a full exposed tang which it is not. It appears there is a lot of welding, grinding, and buffing. For all the work Windlass put into this thing to make it look better than it is, they could have made a better knife! Vague statements about high carbon steel are out of date. Buyers now are more sophisticated and want to know what steel it is, even more in the $70 range which is a very iffy price range. For a lot less you can buy cheappy wall hangers, for a little more you can buy quality. Bottom line- As a collectable, 2 stars out of 5. The fit and finish just are not there. Hang it on a wall with its sheath high enough up that the details cannot be seen! As a weapon, 3 stars. It is not full exposed tang but seems sufficiently strong that it should not break. If I had any need to stab anyone, this would be one of my first choices. As a field knife, 3 stars. It will work for most things, but for preparing kindling, clearing brush, etc. I would prefer a broader blade like a Case or old Western w49, both of which can be had used for just a little more money and with a more practical sheath. Highest and best use- With touching up the edges and rounding off the handle edges, it would make a good SD/HD weapon or a beater/toolbox knife.   |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2020 21:19:34 GMT
While it is tough to see the grinds of the bevel, the overall looks like a decent facsimile of a period knife. Southern Swords and others show it in stock (out of the USA) southernswords.co.uk/english-bowie-knife.htmlIt looks more like a backorder status rather than discontinued. The Western and Case are widely reproduced and they do certainly can pack a wallop. I had a $19 Pakistan version of the W49 and did cut up some branches with relative ease. Really thick though. If looking for a hatchet knife, those fit the bill. I see this one as a bit more of a fighter that a camp knife. I tend to bookend funds to step up from the less expensive knives but these budget blades can certainly get the job done. There are numerous books outlining the older knives but be aware some of those are false in and of themselves. I would trust the Flayderman bowie knife but there are others. Cheers GC |
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jan 12, 2020 23:38:09 GMT
Thanks for the write up. A bit disappointing as I was expecting more.
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Post by bebut on Jan 13, 2020 12:26:59 GMT
Cold Steel has a newish w49 knockoff, an inch longer too boot. It's on my radar but my old w49 is still alive and well so it would be a bit of redundancy for me. Street price is about $95, but even at that you can still pick up a slightly used real Western for about the same money.. www.coldsteel.com/wild-west-bowie.html |
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Post by howler on Jan 13, 2020 20:35:23 GMT
Cold Steel has a newish w49 knockoff, an inch longer too boot. It's on my radar but my old w49 is still alive and well so it would be a bit of redundancy for me. Street price is about $95, but even at that you can still pick up a slightly used real Western for about the same money.. www.coldsteel.com/wild-west-bowie.html$74.95 at GPKNIVES. |
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 9,572
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Post by pgandy on Jan 14, 2020 15:37:04 GMT
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Post by howler on Jan 14, 2020 20:08:53 GMT
Also the CS Black Bear machete. |
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Post by William Swiger on Jan 21, 2020 1:39:22 GMT
Bought one of these on sale or with a discount code. I am satisfied with it for what I paid.
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Post by JGonzalez on Mar 9, 2020 20:44:20 GMT
I have owned one for about a decade and I enjoy it. It's not like I go meeting with bad elements on sandbars though. :)
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Post by immortanjak on Aug 10, 2022 10:42:20 GMT
Intro and disclosure- I purchased this with my own funds from KOA and have no financial ties to manufacturer or vendor. I bought it as a replica of a big Bowie knife suitable for combat or field use. Historical accuracy- Windlass states that it is a replica of a period Bowie from England made for the US trade. They stamped it with both the Imperial and Windlass stamps, although the Imperial stamp was quite sloppy. I have not seen photos of the original but it is certainly within the designs of the period. Windlass says it was designed with a slim handle profile for conceilability. Sheath is also a design suitable for concealed carry. Initial impression- It had a nice design and balance. It is the type of Bowie with a relatively long and thin blade suitable for both slashing and stabbing. The sheath was adequate but would probably have to be replaced with a more modern design for field use. Stats and components- Windlass states it is tempered high carbon steel. I went to look up the stats online but it appears to be a discontinued model. It has a 10 inch blade and a good weight proportional to its size. POB is just in front of the guard. It has a substantial false edge that would be very easy to sharpen. I bought it with the factory edge and it was adequate. A little touch up on a fine stone or ceramic rod would bring it up to normal standards of use. Handling and testing- The handle is rectanular which is good for indexing the position of the cutting edge. The handle edges are sharp bordering on painful. The general feel is it would be better for stabbing or slicing meat but still usefull as a general field knife. I chopped a little on and old 2 x 4 and used it to slice some vegetables. Other than the sharp handle edges it worked well. Pros- Nice design and balance and generally period accurate. Cons- Workmanship is poor both wood to metal and metal to metal. A brown liquid filler was used to fill the gaps. Holding it up to the light I can see a 3/8 inch gap between blade and handle, making me estimate that it has a stick tang not much wider than 1/2 inch. Windlass went thru a lot of effort to make this look like a full exposed tang which it is not. It appears there is a lot of welding, grinding, and buffing. For all the work Windlass put into this thing to make it look better than it is, they could have made a better knife! Vague statements about high carbon steel are out of date. Buyers now are more sophisticated and want to know what steel it is, even more in the $70 range which is a very iffy price range. For a lot less you can buy cheappy wall hangers, for a little more you can buy quality. Bottom line- As a collectable, 2 stars out of 5. The fit and finish just are not there. Hang it on a wall with its sheath high enough up that the details cannot be seen! As a weapon, 3 stars. It is not full exposed tang but seems sufficiently strong that it should not break. If I had any need to stab anyone, this would be one of my first choices. As a field knife, 3 stars. It will work for most things, but for preparing kindling, clearing brush, etc. I would prefer a broader blade like a Case or old Western w49, both of which can be had used for just a little more money and with a more practical sheath. Highest and best use- With touching up the edges and rounding off the handle edges, it would make a good SD/HD weapon or a beater/toolbox knife. What is that pin on the side of the sheath called? I have a knife I want to put one on |
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Post by paulmuaddib on Aug 10, 2022 11:59:43 GMT
Intro and disclosure- I purchased this with my own funds from KOA and have no financial ties to manufacturer or vendor. I bought it as a replica of a big Bowie knife suitable for combat or field use. Historical accuracy- Windlass states that it is a replica of a period Bowie from England made for the US trade. They stamped it with both the Imperial and Windlass stamps, although the Imperial stamp was quite sloppy. I have not seen photos of the original but it is certainly within the designs of the period. Windlass says it was designed with a slim handle profile for conceilability. Sheath is also a design suitable for concealed carry. Initial impression- It had a nice design and balance. It is the type of Bowie with a relatively long and thin blade suitable for both slashing and stabbing. The sheath was adequate but would probably have to be replaced with a more modern design for field use. Stats and components- Windlass states it is tempered high carbon steel. I went to look up the stats online but it appears to be a discontinued model. It has a 10 inch blade and a good weight proportional to its size. POB is just in front of the guard. It has a substantial false edge that would be very easy to sharpen. I bought it with the factory edge and it was adequate. A little touch up on a fine stone or ceramic rod would bring it up to normal standards of use. Handling and testing- The handle is rectanular which is good for indexing the position of the cutting edge. The handle edges are sharp bordering on painful. The general feel is it would be better for stabbing or slicing meat but still usefull as a general field knife. I chopped a little on and old 2 x 4 and used it to slice some vegetables. Other than the sharp handle edges it worked well. Pros- Nice design and balance and generally period accurate. Cons- Workmanship is poor both wood to metal and metal to metal. A brown liquid filler was used to fill the gaps. Holding it up to the light I can see a 3/8 inch gap between blade and handle, making me estimate that it has a stick tang not much wider than 1/2 inch. Windlass went thru a lot of effort to make this look like a full exposed tang which it is not. It appears there is a lot of welding, grinding, and buffing. For all the work Windlass put into this thing to make it look better than it is, they could have made a better knife! Vague statements about high carbon steel are out of date. Buyers now are more sophisticated and want to know what steel it is, even more in the $70 range which is a very iffy price range. For a lot less you can buy cheappy wall hangers, for a little more you can buy quality. Bottom line- As a collectable, 2 stars out of 5. The fit and finish just are not there. Hang it on a wall with its sheath high enough up that the details cannot be seen! As a weapon, 3 stars. It is not full exposed tang but seems sufficiently strong that it should not break. If I had any need to stab anyone, this would be one of my first choices. As a field knife, 3 stars. It will work for most things, but for preparing kindling, clearing brush, etc. I would prefer a broader blade like a Case or old Western w49, both of which can be had used for just a little more money and with a more practical sheath. Highest and best use- With touching up the edges and rounding off the handle edges, it would make a good SD/HD weapon or a beater/toolbox knife. What is that pin on the side of the sheath called? I have a knife I want to put one on I think your looking at the snap that is on the restraining strap. |
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Post by legacyofthesword on Aug 10, 2022 16:24:53 GMT
I have this knife, and that metal pin is actually not a snap. There's no restraining strap, instead the pin goes into a slit/hole in the frog/belt loop assembly and keeps it from sliding up off the sheath. The belt loop/frog is separate from the sheath and can be slide down and off the sheath.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Aug 10, 2022 19:42:07 GMT
I have this knife, and that metal pin is actually not a snap. There's no restraining strap, instead the pin goes into a slit/hole in the frog/belt loop assembly and keeps it from sliding up off the sheath. The belt loop/frog is separate from the sheath and can be slide down and off the sheath. Thanks legacy. I have no first hand knowledge of this knife so just went off what it looked like in the picture. Do have a question for you and anyone who has this knife. The op say they think it’s a stick tang. Was wondering how he determined that. Not saying it isn’t but from the picture it sure looks full tang. As a side note they say there’s a 3/8 inch gap and I don’t see that in either of the two pics he put up. Not sure what they’re talking about. |
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Post by legacyofthesword on Aug 10, 2022 20:03:07 GMT
On mine the hilt has two wooden scales that are pinned through the hilt. There appears to be a full tang, as there is steel on both narrow edges of the hilt in between the wood. Oddly, the pommel and ring of metal that sits between the cross guard and the wood of the hilt are both attached to the tang (if that's what it is) that shows on the narrow edges of the hilt. It honestly appears that the tang, pommel and cross guard / ring above it were made in one piece, though I suspect they could be welded together.
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Post by legacyofthesword on Aug 10, 2022 20:03:39 GMT
Oh, and there's no gaps anywhere on mine. It's extremely solid.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Aug 10, 2022 21:21:36 GMT
Thanks for your quick answers. If as you suspect the metal hilt components are one piece or welded together into one piece then it might have a stick like tang welded to the hilt piece. Similar to most tactical kats and waks. Maybe if I ever feel like throwing some money away I’ll buy one and take it apart. Thanks again.
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Post by Mark Millman on Aug 10, 2022 22:32:19 GMT
Dear paulmuaddib, Do have a question for you and anyone who has this knife. The op say they think it’s a stick tang. Was wondering how he determined that. Not saying it isn’t but from the picture it sure looks full tang. As a side note they say there’s a 3/8 inch gap and I don’t see that in either of the two pics he put up. Not sure what they’re talking about. I think that the gap the OP mentions is visible in the second photo, which shows the junction of the blade's shoulders with the guard. If you look carefully, the shoulders don't seat quite flush to the guard. I suspect that you could slip a piece of paper between at least the forward (edge) shoulder and the guard, and that it would go in, as the OP says, about three-eighths of an inch. Whether there's a similar gap between the rear (spine) shoulder and the guard is harder to see, but I think there is one. Taking away that three-quarters of an inch (three-eights plus three-eights) would leave about a half-inch of tang at the shoulders, which is narrower than the grip. Your speculation that is very likely right. But that may not be as clear in other examples if their blades sit more flush to their guards. Best, Mark Millman |
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