pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,817
|
Post by pattyb0009 on Dec 9, 2019 1:28:56 GMT
Hello, all! I'm having a bit of an issue. I have a Hanwei Tinker Lingsword that I am trying to customize. The pommel I've replaced with a Printed Armoury mild steel pommel. I blued the pommel with Birchwood Casey bluing paste. No problem. The guard, however, is the original guard. It will not respond to the bluing paste. The guard looks like it's maybe been chrome plated? Or perhaps it's stainless? I've seen examples or the original guard and pommel blued on the world wide web, and I think instance one mentioned heat bluing in the oven. Stuck here and would appreciate any advice!
|
|
|
Post by MOK on Dec 9, 2019 6:37:32 GMT
The H/T fittings are stainless steel, which means cold bluing solutions won't work on them. Unless you have experience hot bluing things, rather than try to DIY it I'd take them to a professional, like somebody who does gun customization. It'd be cheaper, too, unless you have plenty of other things you'd want to hot blue as well.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Dec 9, 2019 8:23:47 GMT
I've had a lot of success heat bluing in my oven at 500F, not sure how stainless would react.
|
|
Zen_Hydra
Moderator
Born with a heart full of neutrality
Posts: 2,619
|
Post by Zen_Hydra on Dec 9, 2019 13:42:51 GMT
The stainless in the H/T furniture is weird. I tried etching some in ferric chloride and it was resistant, but I left them immersed for 12 hours and it turned dark grey with strange crystalline formations in the surfaces.
|
|
|
Post by Dandelion on Dec 9, 2019 14:33:27 GMT
The stainless in the H/T furniture is weird. I tried etching some in ferric chloride and it was resistant, but I left them immersed for 12 hours and it turned dark grey with strange crystalline formations in the surfaces. That sounds interesting. Any structural damage? Is that even possible with etching?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2019 17:58:04 GMT
www.caswellplating.com/metal-finishing-solutions/stainless-steel-blackener.html#support.caswellplating.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/294/20/stainless-steel-blackener-msdsI have used this on a number of items now and there are other acidic solutions as well. From grey to glossy black, the initial reaction is quite quick, lighter applications leave a bit of a rusty copper undertone. Hydrochloric and liver of sulfur/copper sulfate. I have posted of this several times (the following from a previous thread) Some years ago, I found a second hand Hanwei Mortuary sword. These were offered as antiqued as well but my find was matte finished stainless fittings. I purchased some Caswell Stainless Blackening and the results are shown above. With only rudimentary cleaning and not particularly looking to make it look perfect, I found the result quite nice for my purposes. However, you may note what looks like a bit of coppery vs rust and that is exactly the color. The solution is about 10% hydrocloric acid with a copper sulfate acting in deposition. Looking around today regarding a jewelry silver project, I had tried the Caswell I have and may use it again (scrubbed it off in the first cuff experiment). Today's words are telluride minerals! True black vs the copper in the Caswell solution. Anyway, I have seen some very deep black glossy finishes with the Caswell but it looks like the Jax may be the better mousetrap for a deep black matte finish. Not a tale of woe but exploration and Jax may find a shelf of my liquids. Not just for the cuff project but for blackening most anything. The pint of Caswell will last me forever Cheers GC
|
|
Zen_Hydra
Moderator
Born with a heart full of neutrality
Posts: 2,619
|
Post by Zen_Hydra on Dec 9, 2019 19:28:47 GMT
The stainless in the H/T furniture is weird. I tried etching some in ferric chloride and it was resistant, but I left them immersed for 12 hours and it turned dark grey with strange crystalline formations in the surfaces. That sounds interesting. Any structural damage? Is that even possible with etching? There was no appreciable structural damage. The the eroded areas where not very deep. The crystalline structures were very sharp, but once I sanded them down there was a pretty interesting aged look to the guard and pommel, and a ghost of the intended etching was visible as well.
|
|
pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,817
|
Post by pattyb0009 on Dec 9, 2019 19:50:30 GMT
All of these ideas are great! Thanks so much. I'm going to attempt a heat bluing at 500 degrees tonight and report back. If that fails, I'll try something listed here next.
|
|
pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,817
|
Post by pattyb0009 on Dec 10, 2019 2:34:58 GMT
Whelp I put the guard in a standard kitchen oven at 550 for 45 minutes and nothing. Back to the drawing board. I think I might try a torch next
|
|
Scott
Member
Posts: 1,674
|
Post by Scott on Dec 14, 2019 7:38:26 GMT
I had some rust on the guard and pommel of my hanwei tinker bastard sword. I soaked them in vinegar overnight and got a similar finish to Zen hydras picture above. Nice enough patina but not blued. There's always paint I guess?
|
|
pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,817
|
Post by pattyb0009 on Dec 18, 2019 4:11:37 GMT
Whatever shall I do?!?!?!
|
|