Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2019 18:03:26 GMT
i see the dutch klewang is available, but only in ''second choice'' the cold steel 1917 is heavier than it should be. windlass doesn't even say how much the 1840 nco sbre weighs.
guys, i seem to see that if i strike holding the sword hilt over my right shoulder, i lead with my right leg. this feels funny, is it correct?
Depending on the system, the right leg is always the lead leg. I practically never lead with my left. Matt Easton, goes by "scholagladitoria" on YouTube has good tutorials on the use of the single handed sword on his channel. I second his channel. He has fantastic drills for beginners and loads of information about the saber use and its history
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Post by susieqz on Nov 22, 2019 18:23:42 GMT
thanks. i'll work on it.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 22, 2019 20:17:24 GMT
i see the dutch klewang is available, but only in ''second choice'' the cold steel 1917 is heavier than it should be. windlass doesn't even say how much the 1840 nco sbre weighs.
guys, i seem to see that if i strike holding the sword hilt over my right shoulder, i lead with my right leg. this feels funny, is it correct?
I wouldn’t be too keen on the CS 1917. As for Windlass, their web site leaves something to be desired. I go to KoA to get details on a Windlass. This should help www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=500152&name=1860+Naval+Cutlass The prices are about equal when using MRL’s promo code. At the moment there are many sales going on. As for which foot to lead with, it depends. Am right handed and with a #1 cut (going from high right to lower left) my right foot will go out. With a #2 cut (going from high left to low right) I could very well extend my left foot out. Matt Easton is a good man to follow. Perhaps this will get you started.
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Post by MOK on Nov 22, 2019 21:26:44 GMT
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Post by susieqz on Nov 23, 2019 3:08:52 GMT
thanks ever so much, guys. these are exactly the resources i need. some of this stuff is counter intuitive.
i'm getting used to heaving this heavy piece of steel around, tho i managed an elbow strain.
i'm gonna be real careful about buying my next sword because i want it to be my last.
how do i tell if an antique can be used? i'd hate to wreck something that should be conserved.
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Post by susieqz on Nov 23, 2019 15:04:32 GMT
hey, guys. if someone is offering a sword that is ''second choice'' which they say means ''some rust''. what questions should i ask to make sure i get a usable sword?
as you know, i've never bot an old sword.
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Post by MOK on Nov 23, 2019 15:23:50 GMT
"How much rust, exactly?" springs immediately to mind. The best thing to do would be to request photos showing as clearly as possible whatever flaws the item has.
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Nov 23, 2019 19:24:40 GMT
If I actually DID have an original antique sword, be it a saber or anything else, I would NEVER actually use it for anything unless it was the only one within reach when the situation demanded it.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 23, 2019 19:47:30 GMT
Ditto here.
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Post by MOK on Nov 23, 2019 20:14:01 GMT
Oh, yeah, absolutely - you should only ever use things you can live with damaging.
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Post by susieqz on Nov 24, 2019 2:59:24 GMT
yeah, i thot of that. it's hard to know if it is right to use a given antique. of course, the thing will have no antique value at all. if it handles as magically as i've read, i'm gonna rape it. yup, i'll sand the rust off. see, the only reproductions that were faithful to this sword are out of production. i guess i'll ask for pics. if it ;looks like something i can restore, i'll get it. but, once sanded it won't really be an antique any more. what should i ask them about the hilt?
by the way, i've seen this scolalargladitoria guy using antiques for cutting.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 24, 2019 3:19:59 GMT
It'll still be an antique if you sand it. I actually restore and refurbish them quite often.
Uhlan does as well.
Just use common sense, and don't replace something on it unless it's necessary. Also, look up what the original looked like. Google images is great. The klewang can be very easily restored to new by removing the rust and correctly applying a fee coats of gun blue. Just remember the cold water rinse in between, and I never used steel wool with mine.
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Post by susieqz on Nov 24, 2019 3:22:58 GMT
thanks, jordan. it's good to hear others do this. what do you do about the hilt?
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Post by susieqz on Nov 24, 2019 3:54:12 GMT
i see i missed a cite from jordon on weapon's edge. i've sent them a message for details. are their reproductions true to type?
this klewang thing seems to be made for me.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 24, 2019 3:57:42 GMT
thanks, jordan. it's good to hear others do this. what do you do about the hilt? Clean the rust and stabilize the grip with either leather conditioner, or linseed oil depending on material. Some Klewangs have bakelight grips though.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 24, 2019 6:23:21 GMT
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 24, 2019 14:06:11 GMT
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Post by susieqz on Nov 26, 2019 15:38:55 GMT
oh, rats. the sword i'm interested in ''is not a training weapon but is more a reenactment side arm''
i'm not sure what that means, but it sounds bad.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2019 16:01:50 GMT
oh, rats. the sword i'm interested in ''is not a training weapon but is more a reenactment side arm'' i'm not sure what that means, but it sounds bad. It's gonna be heavy and have a very thick edge that will take a long time to add an edge to. Might not have the best heat treatment for edge retention either But it will be tough
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Post by susieqz on Nov 26, 2019 18:29:12 GMT
thanks, yald. i'm absolutely not interested in heavy.
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