|
Post by susieqz on Nov 19, 2019 23:36:48 GMT
so, i have a bad sword? are cutlasses better at chopping? will they cut my free targets [weeds] better? no machettes for me.
if i just wanted a garden tool, i'd use a shovel.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2019 0:21:23 GMT
I wouldn't say it was a bad sword. But I can say there are other swords better suited to the task you want out of it
|
|
|
Post by MOK on Nov 20, 2019 0:32:54 GMT
Eeeeh... it's just not a great representation of a Medieval falchion. There's nothing terribly wrong with it, as such, and nothing that isn't all too common for similarly priced modern reproductions in general: it's just kind of crude and sluggish when compared to historical originals. But if you like it, that's good for you! We're total nerds for swords, here, we tend to get a little snobbish about these things. About cutlasses, it depends! They vary, just like any other sword forms - a short falchion is functionally quite similar to a cutlass, in broad terms, but there's a whole lot of variation within either category. The same goes for all types of swords, too, and even the ones actually designed for fieldwork can be better or worse depending on a lot of things. Almost any decent sword should be plenty good enough for whacking weeds, though, as long it can cut light targets (so nothing too heavy and slow-moving). The main worry is really just damaging the blade if you happen to hit something unexpectedly tough or hard, which is why I would lean towards either something purpose built for that kind of work, or some cheap and easily replaceable sort of blade. But of course that depends on how much money you're willing to spend and risk...
|
|
|
Post by susieqz on Nov 20, 2019 1:03:03 GMT
i'd sure like something easier to use. nimble is a good word. this one can go on the wall.
if i buy a sword, blade damage is acceptable. if this thing loosens up, it will be ruined. the hilt seems to be screwed on. if it loosens, i could only fiz it by tightening the pommel. that would look really stupid. i'm not thrilled with windlass
|
|
|
Post by MOK on Nov 20, 2019 5:47:20 GMT
Windlass is famously hit-and-miss. Most of their fare is decidedly pedestrian, but they do make some real gems like the Coustille Short Sword, the Type XIV, the Arbedo, and the D-Guard Bowie Knife; personally, their Hunter's Companion Bowie is one of my favorite almost-swords. PS. Good catch about the screw-on pommel, BTW. Ideally you would want one either permanently peened or fixed with a separate nut that can actually be tightened. That said, if the thread is properly tight and secured with some kind of adhesive, it might well never come loose even in heavy use. It's just a bit of a wager.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 20, 2019 6:09:49 GMT
If you want a lighter sword with still lots of fun, can I reccomend a military sabre?
I just got one in for my shop, a few actually, but one that stands out is a sabre which weighs only 610 grams and has a blade 3 and .25 inches longer than the overall length of the windlass falchion.
The Dutch/US klewang also stands out - 798 grams in a basically falchion set up with a basket guard (don't get the cold steel it's terrible).
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 20, 2019 13:29:25 GMT
Welcome to the forum Sue. I missed your OP when it came out. Been under the weather lately and have missed a lot. I’d be reluctant to give any advice on the gap without a photo. As for your scabbard, probably a sheath coming from Windlass, shove the thing in your belt. That’s a good of a way to carry as any.
You remind me of a sadist buying falchion for weed cutting. If you especially like that falchion and use weed cutting as an excuse to use the sword is another thing.
That’s a job for a machete. I know you don’t like machetes. I think perhaps because you do not know machetes. Up until I was about 20 years ago I felt the same way. I had used one in one form or another most of my life, as little as possible I might add. At that point I ended up in Central America where a machete is king and learned how to use and care for them, not to mention what a good one is. You might check them out on YouTube. Cold Steel makes very ones. Can’t blame you for not liking the falchion, you need a tool for the job. I use to be fairly good with a pistol. If a chuck popped up within 75 yds he was dead, bagged many a squirrel and snake. My competition work was with small bore gallery and high power rifles.
|
|
|
Post by susieqz on Nov 20, 2019 14:37:03 GMT
um, guys,weed control is not important. the weeds are just targets. they tell me wwhere i hit. if i swing at 2' above ground, the weeds tell me if that's where i hit. the sword has to cut the weed to tell me where i hit so i can become precise in sword use. other people seem to use rolled up mats that they pay for. see, if i swing at a rattler i want to hit it right behind its head. i don't want to miss. using a machete would only teach me how to handle a machete, which i don't want to know. i just want to use a sword with precision. this is just training. if you think a military sabre would cut weeds, i'll get one.
i'm not finding that dutch thing for sale, but i see cold steel
has a 1917 cutlas that looks the same. cold steel doesn't have a great rep tho.
|
|
AndiTheBarvarian
Member
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 9,813
Member is Online
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Nov 20, 2019 15:15:42 GMT
Funny thing is, many artillery sabers or swords are made for cutting weed to clear the area for the canons. They usually are shorter sabers or swords, sometimes with a sawback. Dunno if modern repros are durable enough.
There are also relative light infantry sabers, but not made to be used as a machete. I have a Cold Steel US Marines NCO saber (a light saber) and a CS Naval Officer's sword (a lightsaber) and am very happy with them.
The CS 1917 cutlass is very heavy for its size, far away from a typical cutlass. The CS Cutlass Machete is better. CS has a questionable CEO, but their swords etc. are made by other forges and I think they are ok.
|
|
|
Post by susieqz on Nov 20, 2019 15:34:34 GMT
people talk about ''nimble'' swords. i'd sure like to try one of those.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2019 16:06:55 GMT
The Spanish 1895 is definitely a very nimble sword. Might be in your ally. It's probably one of the lightest swords I've ever owned. Same with my driggers arming sword "miss flexie" (both weight roughly 1.5lbs or so)
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 20, 2019 18:01:57 GMT
I bought a new machete this morning. Hadn’t planned on it but needed masking tape and on the way out I passed their machete rack. All were Bellotas, I have two by that company, they are located in Colombia, and I rate them highly. The cost was ¢2309.86 by using this morning’s exchange rate is 4.07 USD. So much for something that you aren’t interested in.
The Klewang Cutlass is out of production. As well as CS USMC NCO sabre. I have both and will describe them as jewels. I recently received an Universal M1902 Saber that I’m still learning and find that it handles similar to CS USMC NCO Saber. It is very nimble and fast. Windlass makes a M1860 cutlass that has good reviews. A shamshir or scimitar with its curved blade reminds me of a cycle and should cut grass, but now I understand the grass is only a target. If you want something for snake protection perhaps something with a longer reach. Someone had suggested a Windlass D-Guard Bowie. Mine is fast, nimble and reminds me of a short sword. It has only a 17” blade for what that’s worth. Than there a katanas which are fast and light. And can be controlled with one hand. Just a few thoughts. If it’s snake protection that you want why not a hand gun? I assume that you are on your own property so there should be no issues there. A snake’s head was well within my capabilities with .38 and .45 ball. However I generally carried .38 shot in my .357 because it was easier on the house. The first one that I shot out of the rafters I used .45 GI ball, only one shot was necessary, but the next morning I was on the roof repairing it. But then if you want to swing a blade one excuse is as good as the next. Welcome the sword world.
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Nov 20, 2019 18:45:01 GMT
If you can get your hands on one of the Weapon Edge Dutch Klewangs Pgandy has mentioned, this one might be just the thing for you. I had two and they are light, nimble and yet powerful. Good grip shape, too. Easily cut with from the arms. Solid and durable. The Windlass 1860 naval cutlass is good, you may like the WE Klewang better, for your purposes. Fun and capable swords, excellent pieces. Seem to be still in stock here, got one of mine from this seller...
FWIW, here are stats for most of the cutlasses/hangers I used to own (antiques marked in red)…
Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by susieqz on Nov 20, 2019 22:23:15 GMT
oh, pgandy, i have handguns all over the place. i live 3 miles from pavement, so i'm responsible for my own safety. cops could get here in 30 minutes, so all they could do is write a report.
i average shooting 1.5 rattlers/year. i practice for snakes by shooting lumps of charcoal near my feet. i just wanna learn a new weapon. swords look like fun but, as a tool, i wanna be very good with my tools. that's sorta my hobby. after listening to you guys, i think i want a sabre. i'm working with the falchion, but it just seems clumsy. i don't think that will change with practice. i like good tools. .
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 20, 2019 22:58:42 GMT
i just wanna learn a new weapon. swords look like fun but, as a tool, I can’t blame you there. The problem with swords is they are addictive. Like eating a chip or peanut, after the first one you will want more, as you are finding out. I am not a true sabre fan. After the first two I was turned off. Then I realized that they were cavalry sabres and I was using them on foot. I then got a CS USMC NCO sword (designed for dismounted use) and WOW! What a difference. That was followed by the M1902, also for dismounted use and it handles similarly to the USMC. Antique sabres will generally handle better than a repro. A cutlass is a short sabre that generally better. With its shorter blade there is less blade presence. But that is not always the case.
|
|
|
Post by legacyofthesword on Nov 21, 2019 0:52:37 GMT
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 21, 2019 1:14:20 GMT
That Ox Tail Dao is great. Mine came wickedly sharp, the sharpest of any factory edge I’ve received. In fact, I was going through the drill when noticed the red flag shredded. I was cutting it in the drill by doubling back on itself. I dare say that is more nimble than any sabre and good price to at the moment. You might want to give that one serious consideration.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2019 1:25:24 GMT
My Spanish 1895 is quite nimble tho 😎 a thin, narrow, long blade. Cuts well and feels like nothing
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 21, 2019 5:32:10 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 21, 2019 6:01:26 GMT
Good choice. Personally, I highly prefer spears against most animals. I have some experience as well. Easier to wear a machete or sword tho
|
|