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Post by john1 on Nov 11, 2019 4:11:00 GMT
What is the simplest way to make a fuller in a stock-removal sword - that doesn’t require expensive equipment ?
Equipment: Can a drill press or router be used instead of an end mill ? Is there a way to sand a fuller in - with a cheap belt sander ?
Technique: Should the fuller be put in before or after the distal taper ?
Thanks !
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Post by MOK on Nov 11, 2019 10:22:09 GMT
It depends on your work flow and the particular sword design, and honestly I have very little personal experience with this, but generally I'd suggest to start with the profile shape, then rough distal taper, then fuller, then the edge bevels; then a few rounds of refining and cleaning up all the above; then actual sharpening. I've seen way too many production swords that actually grow thicker where the fuller ends because they first ground in a diamond cross-section and then the fuller.
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Post by illustry on Nov 11, 2019 14:22:26 GMT
Going with equipment I have on hand, I'd try using my angle grinder, and build a jig/guide system to move it along. Practice on a piece of flat stock first. The radius of the cutoff wheel is your fuller radius.
Distal taper first or not would depend on how you do it. For this method I'd probably do taper last, just so I could work with the flattened stock.
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Post by ingramusa on Feb 21, 2021 5:04:15 GMT
If you're wanting a fuller that follows the spine/edge of the blade, you won't find an easier or more dependable tool for the price than this. Despite it's look, will cut a very clean straight groove and so long as you take your time and work carefully, there's little chance of slipping and marring your blade.
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Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
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Post by Greg on Feb 21, 2021 22:12:03 GMT
I've personally witnessed someone using a free-hand angle grinder to put in a fuller, but this was a smith who had been doing it for 15 years. He then used a rounded plank of wood and sandpaper to get the valley uniform. I then went home and tried it on some flat stock and my technique needed a lot of work. Going on what Illustry said, I've also considered building a jig to secure the angle grinder above a work surface, and then use some angle iron to ensure I hit the center of the blade. The jig would need a height adjustment on it though to ensure an even depth while working down a distal taper. I plan on having a work space up and running in the next month (just moved) and if I attempt such a jig, I'll be sure to post it :D Edit: On the question of using a belt sander, you would need a small contact wheel, but I've seen this technique used many times. Another note on the angle grinder, these were the narrow fullers where the smith put in 3. Also, with the drill press, you can get milling bits for a drill press and then use a milling clamp, something like this: www.amazon.com/HFS-Cross-Slide-Milling-Machine/dp/B00L5RVHWM . secure that to your drill press table and then work the fuller in a couple inches at a time, needing to reposition the blade as you run out of travel.
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Post by freq on Feb 22, 2021 9:53:58 GMT
I have done a few fullers so far all free hand and all with a 4 inch grinder, trick is to draw out your lines and go slow i used the grinder like this gives nice wide fuller
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