|
Post by wstalcup on Nov 1, 2019 18:30:46 GMT
I use insanely cheap materials, have the craftsmanship of a blind monkey, but still managed to pull off making a half decent scabbard.. so if anyone had reservations of making their own scabbard.. have no fear! you can do it! here is how I made 'Ghetto'cus Maximus scabbard! 1) found some cheap dirty plywood in garage, cut 2 pieces 2) didn't bother with cutting out grooves to fit the pieces together but just glued some wood chips as spacers.. (somehow the sword still gets drawned and sheathed very well! 3) Sides of the wooden core as you can see were square (blocky) so i took some 1/4 inch wooden dowels that i already had and cut them in half the long ways and taped them on the sides. Scabbard now has rounded sides! 4) wrapped together with sports tape! Tape is stretchable so I could make the planks fit tight enough to hold the sword securely in it. Tape has cloth on the outside of it, so leather to be glued to it.. (turned out i didn't even use glue) 4) bought leather that was already "dyed" or whatever the term is.. one big piece of leather was really expensive, but 2 smaller pieces was really cheap so I did that and decided to get 2 different colored leather sheets for a different look. I cut the leather to size and stitched together with...dental floss! LOL..yes, spared no expense for Ghetto'cus Maximus! In hindsight, I should have drilled holes in the leather to make the stitching easier.. I even taped bent paperclips (top in 2nd pic) to help with weight of sword and scabbard attached to belt.. yes so ghetto.. but no one sees the backside of scabbard 5) Finished scabbard up with cutting "tassles" and gluing Templar Cross on it 6) Attached Sword Scabbard to belt and Templar dagger scabbard to belt 7) Sir Bill of the Knights Templar ready for battle! LOL.. this was a very rushed job for Halloween.. I'm sure you guys could do much better!
|
|
AndiTheBarvarian
Member
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 9,756
Member is Online
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Nov 1, 2019 18:42:36 GMT
Cool!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2019 18:48:53 GMT
This is a pretty historic way of making one too. Great job!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2019 18:52:59 GMT
This... Is like exactly what I would do too. I might try this out. Looks great
|
|
|
Post by markus313 on Nov 1, 2019 20:14:17 GMT
Looks good, good job!
|
|
|
Post by wstalcup on Nov 1, 2019 20:18:35 GMT
Thanks everyone! too bad i wasn't able to finish the coif in time.. so close!!
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Nov 1, 2019 20:25:39 GMT
Congratulations.
|
|
|
Post by paulmuaddib on Nov 1, 2019 20:36:03 GMT
Looks good man. I like what you did with the dowels. I’m a professional handyman and I’m not sure I could do that good of a job on the first try.
|
|
|
Post by wstalcup on Nov 1, 2019 20:55:41 GMT
thanks again! it was just total improvising on the fly with junk laying around the house.. kinda like "Sanford and Son" meets "MacGyver" LOL!
|
|
stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
|
Post by stormmaster on Nov 1, 2019 21:02:03 GMT
good first scabbard
|
|
christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
|
Post by christain on Nov 1, 2019 21:43:55 GMT
Dude! I LOVE IT! I'm gonna eventually make a new scabbard for my H/T Norman, and this thread will give me the inspiration! (The H/T Norman scabbard has a common problem of *something* making the blade hang up about halfway in.)
|
|
|
Post by wstalcup on Nov 1, 2019 22:27:20 GMT
Thanks and I really didn't get to finish the Tabard/Tunic..but i ended up making it myself.. just bought a painter's drop cloth for like 10 bucks.. really sweet rustic texture.. made a stencil and spray painted the Templar Cross on it. I still need to cut out the leg flaps and seems like i need to sew some sides on it.. but anywho.. was great to be able to custom tailor it to my size!
|
|
|
Post by wstalcup on Nov 1, 2019 22:35:38 GMT
Dude! I LOVE IT! I'm gonna eventually make a new scabbard for my H/T Norman, and this thread will give me the inspiration! (The H/T Norman scabbard has a common problem of *something* making the blade hang up about halfway in.) Thanks! and total cost was only like $50 bucks for the 2 pieces of leather. although you should also have a skil saw to cut the 1/4 inch wooden dowels in half.. or ha ha.. just tape pencils or sticks to the sides of the wood to make rounded edges! wooden core doesn't seem to matter much like the professionals seem to think.. not going to store the sword in it and the sports tape made it really easy to "squeeze" the 2 wood planks together for a nice fit. sword doesn't not fall out when you turn the scabbard upside down! ... really should use a drill to cut the holes in the leather for stitching.. and to cut slits in the leather to make slits to thread leather lace through it was also easy by using a drill and "shifting" it up and down to make the slits.. cutting into the leather with a razor blade, exacto knife, etc was still really hard to do!
|
|
christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
|
Post by christain on Nov 1, 2019 23:14:48 GMT
I just happen to work for a company that makes outdoor wooden furniture and fixtures, so I have full use of all the shop tools. It'll be a breeze for me...it's just a matter of finding the time to DO IT! Edit: I also have TWO whole-hide leathers of upholstery-grade. Nice stuff. I STOLE them at an auction for $75.00. Yes, I have two cows rolled up underneath my bed.
|
|
|
Post by wstalcup on Nov 2, 2019 0:28:01 GMT
I just happen to work for a company that makes outdoor wooden furniture and fixtures, so I have full use of all the shop tools. It'll be a breeze for me...it's just a matter of finding the time to DO IT! Edit: I also have TWO whole-hide leathers of upholstery-grade. Nice stuff. I STOLE them at an auction for $75.00. Yes, I have two cows rolled up underneath my bed. awesome! definitely go for making a scabbard.. or 2!
|
|
christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
|
Post by christain on Nov 2, 2019 0:56:29 GMT
We mainly work with cedar and pine wood, so I'm wondering about the effects of the oils in the wood and blade rusting. I plan on gluing in felt on the inside, but even the effect of glue and dyed felt worry me. I guess just go with natural wool. (or hide)
|
|
|
Post by demonskull on Nov 2, 2019 1:29:52 GMT
Instead of using a drill to make the stitching holes in leather covering you can buy a leather stitching chisel for less than $10 at any leather supply site. Just place it on the leather and tap the back with a hammer or mallet. They have the advantage of giving you an equal amount of spacing between the prongs. Makes your stitching look nice and even. Once you punch the first set you move your chisel to the last punch hole and continue until you make all you holes.
In keeping with the use what you have, you can make your own chisel: take a rigid dinner fork, cut several inches off the back of forks handle, sharpen the fork tines with a file, grinder or sharpening stone and your done. You can also flatten the new "chisel" with the same hammer.
This will help keep your chisel from jumping when you strike it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 1:33:17 GMT
We mainly work with cedar and pine wood, so I'm wondering about the effects of the oils in the wood and blade rusting. I plan on gluing in felt on the inside, but even the effect of glue and dyed felt worry me. I guess just go with natural wool. (or hide) Technically, I think the oils in most wood is relatively harmless to steel. The moisture in your environment is certainly a factor, or lack thereof, but if I am not mistaken, leaving your blade in the scabbard without taking precautions (oil, Renaissance wax or other coatings) can cause oxidation on account of the low light environment. Yet, I also believe the tannins in wood can have an impact. Keep the blade clean of any oils and dirt from your fingers, make sure it is lightly oiled or coated in Renaissance wax, and take it out of the scabbard now and then to air it out and take a peek at the blade for any signs of oxidation. Felt can certainly help, but provided the glue cures fully, the glue itself shouldn't be a problem. To make a long story short, I think bad maintenance and carelessness are the primary causes of blades rusting, although the leather Windlass uses is definitely a culprit.
|
|
christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
|
Post by christain on Nov 2, 2019 1:40:46 GMT
I've honestly never had a problem with rust forming on my blades. All of my swords are in their scabbards, and not a speck. I wipe them all down about once every 2-3 months with WD-40 and a clean rag---done deal. Maybe I'm just lucky!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 1:42:43 GMT
I've honestly never had a problem with rust forming on my blades. All of my swords are in their scabbards, and not a speck. I wipe them all down about once every 2-3 months with WD-40 and a clean rag---done deal. Maybe I'm just lucky! That's proper maintenance. Some steels are more reactionary than others.
|
|