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Post by deustcherrr on Oct 22, 2019 22:45:13 GMT
Hi I've bought the Balaur arms 13th century longsword and is the first one real that i have in my hands, is the sword that i liked the most of the cheaper ones but i feel that is a little too flexible, i know that is a must have in a real sword and this is a cheap one but, it is normal that sags a little when you have it in horizontal position? here's a picture:
also i've found this little scratches and i want to know if sheath and unsheath the sword a lot made them appear, i'm sure they wasn't there when arrived some days ago, there's some way to remove them?
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
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Post by stormmaster on Oct 22, 2019 23:04:23 GMT
some mothers mag polish and buff wheel, it probably is the wood inside the scabbard is not done properly and the blade is rubbing on the scabbard or it really did just come that way and u didnt notice it before, for the price point its not really that bad
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Oct 22, 2019 23:12:55 GMT
Some blades do have a bit of sag to them, yes.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Oct 23, 2019 0:09:58 GMT
Blade sagging is just about always present in all but the stiffest of blades. A long, thin blade is gonna have a degree of droop...simple physics. Those scratches are horizontal to the blade, so drawing and replacing the sword---even a million times---could not produce such scratches. I think it was from some after-effect of the final sharpening. I don't really see HOW...but that's the only way to explain them, IMHO.
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Post by pellius on Oct 23, 2019 0:39:02 GMT
Congrats on a nice sword.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Oct 23, 2019 2:02:13 GMT
I’ll have to agree with Christain in regards to the scratches coming from drawing and returning the sword. The angles are all wrong. Watch it over a period of time to see if they grow. The flex in the blade probably will have no ill effect on its cutting ability. When giving point is where the problem will lie. As for eliminating the scratches I think it’s best to leave them. Mothers Mag in time and enough elbow grease will do the job but starting with sandpaper/oil will be more expedient. Then go to a polishing compound. At any rate you are going to wash out the fuller’s definition.
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Post by deustcherrr on Oct 23, 2019 23:25:02 GMT
what longswords doesn't sag or feel too flexible in the handling?? (not albions please) something affordable
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 24, 2019 5:06:35 GMT
You bought a cut orientated type XIIa with a long thin blade and a relative light one. Here is some flex and some sagging expectable and ok. Later types like XVa or XVI are more thrust orientated, shorter or no fuller, diamond cross section, stronger tapering and stiffer. Look at the Balaur 15th. Or perhaps a XIia with more weight and a thicker blade.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Oct 24, 2019 5:12:16 GMT
what longswords doesn't sag or feel too flexible in the handling?? (not albions please) something affordable Two simple letters---H/T.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 24, 2019 6:00:07 GMT
But not the GSOW, too flexible!
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Post by MOK on Oct 24, 2019 13:21:31 GMT
A flexible blade is not an issue in and of itself (within reason, of course). Problems mostly come when they get the distal taper wrong and the blade flexes in a wrong way, rather than just too much; with proper geometry, the base of the blade remains more rigid, allowing proper use of force in binds and providing support for the more flexible tip.
With thrusting blades, specifically, any flex is counterproductive because it hinders penetration by absorbing energy and greatly increasing friction, which is why such blades typically show thick cross-sections with little distal taper (which, on the other hand, hinders cutting performance and necessitates the use of some other methods to adjust the blade's mass distribution).
XIIa aren't really thrusting swords, though! In this case the amount of flex shown in that photo is perfectly good and proper. It shouldn't hinder cutting at all, and that's the main purpose of this blade; thrusts against soft tissue should be fine, too, and for harder targets you should go to half-sword, anyway.
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