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Post by mindtrip on Aug 22, 2019 7:18:59 GMT
Hello All,
does somebody know how to maintain a leather handle on a +400 year old sword?
Thanks!
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Post by MOK on Aug 22, 2019 10:21:09 GMT
That'll depend entirely on its current condition.
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Post by zsg1313 on Aug 22, 2019 19:15:45 GMT
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Post by William Swiger on Aug 22, 2019 20:52:18 GMT
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Post by mindtrip on Aug 23, 2019 12:05:11 GMT
Thanks for the replies!
Condition is - for the age - perfect as far as i can tell. I am trying to figure out what the best way would be to keep it in that condition. Usually i use some regular leather grease or leather oil, depending on what kind of leather it is. Sometimes i use RenWax, but that is for „newer“ leather only.
Would RenWax work on the old leather? Or really just a leather conditioner? How about neatsfoot oil? I heard mixed reports about from good to bad.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 23, 2019 16:07:50 GMT
There are a number of leather preservatives on the market, Pecards mentioned above is good. The important thing is not to let the leather dry out.
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Post by MOK on Aug 23, 2019 22:10:55 GMT
And if it is dried out, apply the preservative, grease, feed or whatever very gently, without rubbing! The exact product makes little difference IME, although petroleum based stuff tends to stink so I prefer things with lanolin and/or beeswax, instead.
Matt Easton actually posted a video about this recently:
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 24, 2019 3:14:11 GMT
I’ve used many brands all worked, never found a bad one. The first was Lexol for the leather seats and dash in my roadster. The leather and stitching stayed intact while it was common to see others fall apart. I now use Protexol and think of it and use it similar to Easton’s thoughts on Dubbin with a few of exception. I use a tooth brush to work it into stitching and seams. I could use a cloth but apply it by hand. And rather than buffing with a cloth I use a shoe brush and get a nice warm shine. I use it on all my leather, boots, hats, belts, straps, etc. both to preserve them and water proof, it’s about the best water proofer I’ve found. I’ve used it on cloth seams after spraying the rest with a water proofer. Good luck in finding it though. It is a product of Colombia. The top says “GRASA de POTRO” translated it says “grease from colts”. I find it hard to believe they kill colts to make this stuff. Smells bad so maybe they do. However the smell disappears after a day or so, or two. Hehe Their web site is www.inbisonte.com. I think the green is their older package, the grease is the same.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2019 17:34:53 GMT
Need specifics for the item. The rest would be playing twenty questions. If it is "perfect", at whatever age, leave it alone if conserving it. One first needs to determine what circumstance and storage it has had over four centuries. The old axiom "if it's not broken, don't fix it" applies in buckets when considering old stuff. It is a different story if something is actively deteriorating or rusting and crumbling apart.
Waxes and oils will often darken leather and waxes (including Ren wax) add a coating that can be difficult to remove. Ren Wax is used in museums and used on leather. However; Why?
Item Picture Provenance Condition Intent Expectation
Those are just a few of the subjects regarding such an item if asking for truly rational recommendations and debate.
Most products will have a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) that lists the ingredients.
I have used Pecards on my 200+ yr old grips but it does darken the leather. Specifically, Pecards is a petroleum distillate and beeswax. Oils penetrate, waxes coat. Ren Wax is used in museums when not expected to be regularly handled and will preserve its current state "if" maintained in a constant climate and not handled a great deal. If it was dry and flaky before, it will only become less stable for handling.
If the item is clean, sound and dry, keep it clean and dry. Stuff likes to breathe but in a stable environment. If displayed open on a wall, keep it out of direct sun and away from doorways as moisture in the air circulates. Oils attract dust. Dust attracts moisture. Check out the dust in some old museums, inside glass cases. They may not have vacuumed lately but I'd wager they didn't oil any leather and they do try to maintain a climate/humidity.
Oils have a tendency to soften old leather, only making it more fragile.
Pecards antique does penetrate and stiffen leather, as well as darkening. It saved a very old leather scabbard I own that was turning to red dry cracking dust. The texture and hue not what one would have seen in the day but it will outlast me. Other 200 plus year old scabbards I have are often treated with waxes over the decades/centuries, so that is something to be said for most of the wax possibilities but application and penetration a one way street where leather is concerned.
Cheers GC
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2019 18:03:27 GMT
Sooo, Matt's Dubbin CHEMICAL ENTITY CAS NO. PROPOTION Paraffinic oil - >50% Tallow - 30-60% Non Hazardous ingredients - <10% 100%
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 9, 2019 17:27:25 GMT
Hello All,
does somebody know how to maintain a leather handle on a +400 year old sword?
Thanks!
You have a 400 year old sword? Amazing! do you mind posting pics of it? thanks!
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