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Post by aldarith on Aug 16, 2019 16:57:59 GMT
Finished modifying the hilt on my Hanwei-Tinker Bastard today. Used mild steel Printed Armory parts, blackened & antiqued them before fitting them & then re-worked the leather grip. Turned out satisfactorily, by my judgement and not bad for a first-time attempt!
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Post by snowbite on Aug 16, 2019 19:16:50 GMT
Looks dandy!
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 16, 2019 19:24:13 GMT
Cool!
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Post by Curtis_Louis on Aug 17, 2019 1:21:53 GMT
Heck of a lot better than my first attempts at customizing! Looks really good. Any pics of the whole sword outside the scabbard?
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
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Post by stormmaster on Aug 17, 2019 1:47:18 GMT
nice work might as well antique the scabbard fittings to match
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Aug 17, 2019 2:17:32 GMT
nice work might as well antique the scabbard fittings to match The H/T scabbard fittings are stainless,...no? Antiquing that to match might be awfully hard to do.
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
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Post by stormmaster on Aug 17, 2019 2:19:35 GMT
nice work might as well antique the scabbard fittings to match The H/T scabbard fittings are stainless,...no? Antiquing that to match might be awfully hard to do. are they tho? I've had one that tarnished very quickly
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Aug 17, 2019 2:30:04 GMT
Describe 'tarnish'. (?) Stainless will get grubby and dull but it won't rust easily with the high chromium content. I'm no expert metallurgist, mind you.
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
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Post by stormmaster on Aug 17, 2019 2:32:15 GMT
Describe 'tarnish'. (?) Stainless will get grubby and dull but it won't rust easily with the high chromium content. I'm no expert metallurgist, mind you. like with specs
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Aug 17, 2019 2:50:39 GMT
In my experience with H/T swords, any 'specks' come from an outside source. Highly polished stainless is a magnet for dust and other crap, especially if it's waxed. No matter how clean your house is, it's gonna happen...eventually. Even the random fingerprint will show up like a turd in a punch bowl.
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Post by aldarith on Aug 17, 2019 3:25:32 GMT
nice work might as well antique the scabbard fittings to match The H/T scabbard fittings are stainless,...no? Antiquing that to match might be awfully hard to do. The H/T fittings (including the hilt furniture) are all nonmagnetic. I tried to antique them just for fun and then I was going to sell 'em but they wound up just looking awful. Heck of a lot better than my first attempts at customizing! Looks really good. Any pics of the whole sword outside the scabbard? Please forgive the pajama pic, it's been a busy week but as per your request:
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Post by Curtis_Louis on Aug 17, 2019 6:29:30 GMT
That really turned out nice. Huge improvement over the stock guard and pommel (looks wise). I wonder how much weight those fittings added? The fishtail looks considerably larger than the original pommel.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Aug 17, 2019 13:40:42 GMT
nice work might as well antique the scabbard fittings to match The H/T scabbard fittings are stainless,...no? Antiquing that to match might be awfully hard to do. First of all, that looks great! As for the Stainless question: the first run of Printed Armoury fittings from a few years ago were made out of Stainless Steel. Every subsequent run after that have been made out of mild steel, from the “unfinished” versions to the fully polished versions. A note of advice for those wishing to darken or “blue” their polished fittings from The Printed Armoury: because of the polishing process, the steel is sometimes very difficult to darken (too “bright”). A suggestion to get around this problem is to use some kind of degreasing agent and then using a Scotchbrite pad (very fine, not coarse) to “open up the pores” so that the bluing or other coloring agent can “bite” into the surface. The same process might work with the Stainless scabbard parts, or they may not since the high chromium content in Stainless prevents most bluing aganets from working on it. There are some Stainless bluing chemicals available, but they’re way more expensive than those for carbon steels.
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Post by aldarith on Aug 17, 2019 23:12:52 GMT
That really turned out nice. Huge improvement over the stock guard and pommel (looks wise). I wonder how much weight those fittings added? The fishtail looks considerably larger than the original pommel. It actually reduced the weight - the fishtail is longer but less dense! The crossguard is about the same width but again, less dense. The H/T scabbard fittings are stainless,...no? Antiquing that to match might be awfully hard to do. First of all, that looks great! As for the Stainless question: the first run of Printed Armoury fittings from a few years ago were made out of Stainless Steel. Every subsequent run after that have been made out of mild steel, from the “unfinished” versions to the fully polished versions. A note of advice for those wishing to darken or “blue” their polished fittings from The Printed Armoury: because of the polishing process, the steel is sometimes very difficult to darken (too “bright”). A suggestion to get around this problem is to use some kind of degreasing agent and then using a Scotchbrite pad (very fine, not coarse) to “open up the pores” so that the bluing or other coloring agent can “bite” into the surface. The same process might work with the Stainless scabbard parts, or they may not since the high chromium content in Stainless prevents most bluing aganets from working on it. There are some Stainless bluing chemicals available, but they’re way more expensive than those for carbon steels. I had zero issues darkening mine from what I received. I think the question was about the stock furniture that Hanwei puts on the HT bastard, which in my case the stock Hanwei furniture was some kind of nonmagnetic steel. The Printed Armory stuff is great, magnetic, and darkened readily. Strongly recommend them. Even the fitting was a simple job of removing some stock from the tang and then a light hammering-into-place with a rubber mallet.
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pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,851
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Post by pattyb0009 on Oct 6, 2019 2:47:26 GMT
Great job! The wrap is excellent.
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Post by Madmartigen on Oct 7, 2019 6:55:08 GMT
Turned out really nice! I like the darkened fittings and the grip wrap looks well done too - especially for the first attempt.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Oct 7, 2019 17:52:32 GMT
This inspires me...I like it. Now to see if I can blue mine
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Post by joe_meadmaker on Oct 10, 2019 18:47:26 GMT
I also like your customizations a lot. I have a couple of these swords and am anxiously awaiting some parts to customize them. I'll post some photos once they're all done.
Quick question. You mentioned that you "re-worked" the leather grip. Was this a new piece of leather, or did you wrap up the existing leather for a period of time to add the texture to it?
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Post by aldarith on Oct 11, 2019 12:28:46 GMT
I touched up the spots where the glue was thin or loose, wrapped it in a hot cloth and then used thick polyester thread on the wet leather and left it overnight.
I repeated the process a second time to deepen the grip a little more.
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Post by joe_meadmaker on Oct 11, 2019 20:29:39 GMT
Nice idea! Thanks for the description.
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