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Post by snowbite on Aug 6, 2019 16:45:23 GMT
Ditto on Birchwood Casey Sheath/Barricade. I use the aerosol spray for getting into the nooks and crannies to displace any moisture. The excess evaporates, leaving behind a protective layer of something (petroleum based?)
Then wipe on some other kind of oil with a patch for the easy-to-reach areas.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Aug 6, 2019 18:05:16 GMT
Glad others are aware of Sheath/Baricade. Snowbite not sure why you switch oils but if it works for you, good. Didn’t know it came in aerosol. Still have half a can of Sheath which may out last me. A little goes a long way, I just wipe it on then wipe it down with another part of cloth. Btw, IMO don’t use WD-40, it’s for water displacement and evaporates quickly leaving behind a gummy residue. It’s great for what it’s meant to do but not good for a lubricant or a protectant.
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Post by snowbite on Aug 6, 2019 18:47:46 GMT
Glad others are aware of Sheath/Baricade. Snowbite not sure why you switch oils but if it works for you, good. Didn’t know it came in aerosol. Still have half a can of Sheath which may out last me. A little goes a long way, I just wipe it on then wipe it down with another part of cloth. Btw, IMO don’t use WD-40, it’s for water displacement and evaporates quickly leaving behind a gummy residue. It’s great for what it’s meant to do but not good for a lubricant or a protectant. For my routine, Barricade is only for the hard to reach places (and far superior to WD-40). The odor isn't bad, but I like to limit the amount of airborne chemicals in my little workshop. I see they make Barricade wipes too, but I haven't tried them yet. On a side note, today I picked up a can of Weiman Leather Wipes for my leather scabbards/grips, to test their claim of "cleans, conditions & protects" including UV protection. I can't speak to the long-term effectiveness yet, but at least it doesn't leave any noticeable residue as some amazon reviewers complained. One sheet pretty well covered four sword grips and their scabbards.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Aug 6, 2019 20:53:46 GMT
Mineral oil works fine as a barrier. I find that some specialist anti-corrosion oils (like Ballistol) are better - they will remove light rust. That should work well. And it's cheap. You can also try lanolin oils. Something like Lanox: www.bunnings.com.au/inox-300g-heavy-duty-aerosol-lubricant_p6100343 gives much better long-term protection than mineral oil, especially for things that are exposed (e.g., hilt components, armour). Not odorless, though.
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Post by whattheheck on Aug 6, 2019 21:11:36 GMT
I use this stuff around the house a lot. Works pretty well. I didn't think about using it for swords.
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Post by whattheheck on Aug 6, 2019 21:59:36 GMT
I use Frog Lube for both my swords and my firearms. I have heard good things about this, but have not gotten around to trying it. I looked it up but have two questions: What effect does it have on leather? Does it dry to a hard shell over time or does it get gummy?
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Post by whattheheck on Aug 6, 2019 22:01:18 GMT
Petrol jelly/vaseline, somewhere between wax and oil. Soaked rag for a thin layer. Good to know! Another easy to find and low cost option.
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Post by wlewisiii on Aug 6, 2019 22:30:37 GMT
I use Frog Lube for both my swords and my firearms. I have heard good things about this, but have not gotten around to trying it. I looked it up but have two questions: What effect does it have on leather? Does it dry to a hard shell over time or does it get gummy? It is a bio formula that seems to act like saddle soap on the bits of leather that ive gotten it on. I've never seen it get gummy or anything like that but i clean everything every month or so.
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Post by rjodorizzi on Aug 6, 2019 22:54:35 GMT
Ballistol is the best recommendation I can give. Wisconsin is VERY Humid in the not frozen tundra seasons. Ever since I switched to Ballistol years ago I've had absolutely 0 issues. Every few weeks I give everything a reapplication, sometimes I go longer depending on the blade, but nary a sign of any corrosion.
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Post by mrbadexample on Aug 6, 2019 23:10:10 GMT
Yup. Ballistol is awesome stuff. I’ve also had good luck with rubbing them down with a Tuff Cloth, but Ballistol is more cost effective. My house is in a shady spot in Georgia, so I fight a constant fight against humidity. My linens still smell funky sometimes, but my blades are rust free.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2019 1:20:38 GMT
Since protectants and what’s best for swords are in the title I assume Whattheheck is asking for the best way to prevent rust on swords. This is what I did for years and never had a problem, it was with firearms but will work on swords. It might be further than you want to go. I used a gun safe, actually two. I coated the firearms that were in the collection with LPS-3, and the others with oil usually with military LPS types, I think Break Free at the end. I collected antique military weapons and had a few fun guns mixed in. I installed a low watt electric light bulb and threw in a hand full of moth balls as needed. The safes were in an uncontrolled atmosphere so were subject to temperature changes. I never experienced rust.
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Post by whattheheck on Aug 7, 2019 13:22:57 GMT
I have heard good things about this, but have not gotten around to trying it. I looked it up but have two questions: What effect does it have on leather? Does it dry to a hard shell over time or does it get gummy? It is a bio formula that seems to act like saddle soap on the bits of leather that ive gotten it on. I've never seen it get gummy or anything like that but i clean everything every month or so. Sounds like good stuff. I will have to order some and give it a try. I like Ballistol because of the fact that it is also non-toxic and works well with organic materials, but the smell really bothers some people.
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Post by whattheheck on Aug 7, 2019 13:25:34 GMT
rjodorizzi & mrbadexample
I completely agree, I have used Ballistol on firearms that have wood components and/or which I use with leather holsters and, other than the smell, I think it is great stuff.
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Post by whattheheck on Aug 7, 2019 13:33:01 GMT
Since protectants and what’s best for swords are in the title I assume Whattheheck is asking for the best way to prevent rust on swords. This is what I did for years and never had a problem, it was with firearms but will work on swords. It might be further than you want to go. I used a gun safe, actually two. I coated the firearms that were in the collection with LPS-3, and the others with oil usually with military LPS types, I think Break Free at the end. I collected antique military weapons and had a few fun guns mixed in. I installed a low watt electric light bulb and threw in a hand full of moth balls as needed. The safes were in an uncontrolled atmosphere so were subject to temperature changes. I never experienced rust. I hadn't considered using a gun safe for swords, but, it sounds like a great idea especially for people who might have over-curious children. How many swords were you able to fit in one safe comfortably? Also, I have heard of people using oxygen absorbers in gun safes to help protect their firearms for long term storage (since rust is oxidized iron). I think that using protective coatings is a better idea, but I guess this couldn't hurt if you aren't opening the safe very often.
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Post by MOK on Aug 7, 2019 14:15:21 GMT
Throwing some silica gel bags in the safe won't hurt, either.
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Post by wlewisiii on Aug 7, 2019 15:32:19 GMT
It is a bio formula that seems to act like saddle soap on the bits of leather that I've gotten it on. I've never seen it get gummy or anything like that but i clean everything every month or so. Sounds like good stuff. I will have to order some and give it a try. I like Ballistol because of the fact that it is also non-toxic and works well with organic materials, but the smell really bothers some people. Frog Lube smells of mint. Pure old mint. I changed from Break Free to it and have never regretted it. I buy the paste and use it on a rag.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2019 17:45:44 GMT
I hadn't considered using a gun safe for swords, but, it sounds like a great idea especially for people who might have over-curious children. How many swords were you able to fit in one safe comfortably? Also, I have heard of people using oxygen absorbers in gun safes to help protect their firearms for long term storage (since rust is oxidized iron). I think that using protective coatings is a better idea, but I guess this couldn't hurt if you aren't opening the safe very often. I only had two swords at the time and neither were in the safe. They were stored elsewhere. There is no reason why swords could not be stored in a gun safe. It would certainly keep unwanted fingers off of them. Mothballs in an controlled atmosphere will prevent rust. I stored my iron mould blocks for casting bullets in ammo cans after wrapping with aluminium foil along with the mothballs and never a rust problem. That discovery was a real blessing as prior to that I would oil the blocks and it seemed like it took forever before they would cast decently during the next use. With the mothballs once I got everything up to temperature it was a go. I was careful not to touch the blocks with my bare hands. At one time I used a desiccant as well in the safe but found it unnecessary in that case. As for the size of the safes I don’t remember. I think one was rated at 30 and the slightly smaller or larger. I didn’t manage to cram a few extras in and I am talking of rifles. One or both had a shelf that I used for my pistols and other stuff I wanted secured.
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Post by bebut on Aug 7, 2019 19:03:09 GMT
Mineral oil is good stuff so I always have it around. I use it to sharpen knives on a whetstone, to treat wooden kitchen utensil handles and cutting boards and to protect knives and machetes. Since boiled linseed oil is not available in my area, I use it to treat tool handles such as axes and shovels.
My swords are in an air conditioned house in the desert and have never had a problem. I wipe them dry, apply a little mineral oil, and store them outside of their sheaths. My machetes, knives, and axes are in a humid climate. The ones in the tool shed are rust magnets that need to be cleaned and oiled frequently. Those that are frequently used are less of a problem as long as they are wiped off and hung on the wall dry.
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Post by paulmuaddib on Aug 7, 2019 19:23:37 GMT
Mineral oil is good stuff so I always have it around. I use it to sharpen knives on a whetstone, to treat wooden kitchen utensil handles and cutting boards and to protect knives and machetes. Since boiled linseed oil is not available in my area, I use it to treat tool handles such as axes and shovels. My swords are in an air conditioned house in the desert and have never had a problem. I wipe them dry, apply a little mineral oil, and store them outside of their sheaths. My machetes, knives, and axes are in a humid climate. The ones in the tool shed are rust magnets that need to be cleaned and oiled frequently. Those that are frequently used are less of a problem as long as they are wiped off and hung on the wall dry. Isn’t mineral oil a petroleum based product? If so you shouldn’t use it on cutting boards or any thing that comes in contact with food.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2019 20:05:00 GMT
Mineral oil is a distillation cut from petroleum. In it's pharmaceutical grades it's used in many consumer products, including eyedrops, laxatives, and skin care products. It's one of the GRAS compounds ( Generally Recognized As Safe) by the US FDA... mainly because we've been using it on ourselves for over a century now.
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