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Post by psmith34 on Jul 21, 2019 11:51:09 GMT
Hello to everyone,
I was wondering if anyone could help me with how I would go about removing the antiqued finish on a Hanwei Cromwell Sword?
Many thanks in advance,
Phil Smith.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 12:18:27 GMT
Find a friendly shop with a glass bead or sand blast cabinet. Abrasives will probably be the quickest. Dismount it and use papers or abrasive sponges, or a wire wheel on a drill or bench grinder with a wire wheel.
It seems to me the gold is an enamel, so I guess you could try paint stripper.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 21, 2019 12:43:18 GMT
I used sanding sponges for the blade and got a worn satin finish which I did like enough to stop there. I think more sanding and polishing will work anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 15:59:55 GMT
I know you describe it as a finish, but it would help to know what kind of finish you are dealing with. Is is a lacquer finish? Is it not a finish at all, but a patina? There may be a solvent out there that can help remove some of it without resorting to abrasives.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 21, 2019 16:21:43 GMT
No laquer but a really ugly dark grey patina and a rough pitted blade surface, salt water antiquing or something similar I think. The grey patina can be sanded away easily, burnishing and polishing the pitted blade will need more work.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 17:53:53 GMT
No laquer but a really ugly dark grey patina and a rough pitted blade surface, salt water antiquing or something similar I think. The grey patina can be sanded away easily, burnishing and polishing the pitted blade will need more work. The pitting will require quite a bit of grinding, and it will be very important to not let the blade overheat, lest you ruin the temper. To be honest, this sounds like a pain in the rear. I would leave it as is, or find a replacement blade.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 21, 2019 18:00:16 GMT
The pitting isn't very deep, sanding paper and some muscle grease could do the job. After getting rid of the patina the blade didn't look bad so I left the pitting, the blade looks a bit used or worn, but the patina was the really ugly part.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Jul 21, 2019 19:19:06 GMT
The pitting isn't very deep, sanding paper and some muscle grease could do the job. After getting rid of the patina the blade didn't look bad so I left the pitting, the blade looks a bit used or worn, but the patina was the really ugly part. You'd probably shave a mm or 2 off the blade, depending on how deep the pits are on either side.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 21, 2019 19:28:51 GMT
No, far less, 1/4 mm perhaps, hard to say. The blade looks a bit like slightly airbrushed with silver paint. Perhaps "pitting" was the wrong term.
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Alan Schiff
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Post by Alan Schiff on Jul 21, 2019 19:59:01 GMT
I used an angle grinder with a 120-grit flap disk to remove the finish on my antiqued bastard sword, a bench grinder with a flap wheel would also work. Not sure that a wire wheel would work, but I do think an orbital hand sander with 120-grit or similar probably would.
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Post by psmith34 on Jul 22, 2019 11:20:06 GMT
Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the responses I really appreciate it.
The best and most helpful people are on this forum.
I think I will give the Flap Wheel that you Alan Schiff talked about and maybe also the sanding process that you AndiTheBarvarian described.
Thanks to everyone,
Phil
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Post by psmith34 on Jul 24, 2019 0:42:54 GMT
Hey Guys,
Do you think a Dremel with a 120 grit flap wheel would do the job?
Thanks,
Phil.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2019 15:24:18 GMT
If you are regarding the blade finish, the contact surface of a dremel is so small that you will end up with an inconsistent finish. A sanding block with papers or sponge will better distribute the effort. An auto supply shop will have hard rubber sanding blocks and papers. Coarse then finer. For the guard, yes, the dremel would do it.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Jul 24, 2019 15:52:42 GMT
Yeah I'll back a hard rubber sanding block, they are very useful and with the flat blade of the Cromwell would be very easy to use. Actually I wouldn't recommend a power tool for the blade. It would be very easy to screw up the temper or gouge it, or otherwise make it ugly, which would be pretty hard to do with elbow grease.
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christain
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Post by christain on Jul 24, 2019 16:36:22 GMT
I will third on the sanding block and paper. A Dremel tool is great for getting into tight spots, like on a complex hilt with lots of twists and curves though. I love mine for just such things, but it would take forever to do a whole blade---and the end results would be so-so at best.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jul 24, 2019 19:47:51 GMT
A power tool for me, no way no how.
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Post by psmith34 on Jul 24, 2019 22:04:16 GMT
Hi Guys,
Yes I can see what you mean about the problems using a Dremel or power tool, like you guys said I should give it a go with a sanding block. I will let you know how I go.
Thanks for all the info,
Phil Smith.
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