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Post by haon on Jul 18, 2019 6:44:15 GMT
Hi there, I am currently doing some research for a custom katana which shall have a real hamon and be suited for Iaido pratctice and sparring in protective gear, so it is going to be dull. Since I always wanted one with a real hamon, I wanted to ask you guys what steel would still have the best flexibility with differential hardening. Right now, I am thinking about 1050, 1060 or T10 / 1095, since the forge I chose doesnt make 9260 with differential hardening.
(Already considered 9260 with a good etched Hamon, but from experience this does vanish at some Point after re-polishing...Maybe i have had just bad luck, i dont know for sure.)
Thank you already in advance
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 18, 2019 11:06:27 GMT
Probably L6 Bainite, it should give a spine like a TH flexy heat treated sword combined with a DH hard edge. The L6 steel is only important because it allows the special bainite heat treatment on a DH blade. Without this there is probably not much difference between different steels, then all depends on the (not bainite) heat treatment.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Jul 18, 2019 20:33:04 GMT
Steel type and temper have something to do with it, but I recall some sword makers saying that the geometry has more to do with flexibility than steel type. A lot of katanas don't generally have geometries that lend themselves well to flexibility, and a differential hardening is going to take from that even more.
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Post by haon on Jul 19, 2019 5:45:05 GMT
Probably L6 Bainite, it should give a spine like a TH flexy heat treated sword combined with a DH hard edge. The L6 steel is only important because it allows the special bainite heat treatment on a DH blade. Without this there is probably not much difference between different steels, then all depends on the (not bainite) heat treatment. Thank your for your answer, but unfortunately I neither have the money for that, nor does the forge work with L6 Steel, so the ones I stated are the ones that i can choose from
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Post by haon on Jul 19, 2019 5:47:07 GMT
Steel type and temper have something to do with it, but I recall some sword makers saying that the geometry has more to do with flexibility than steel type. A lot of katanas don't generally have geometries that lend themselves well to flexibility, and a differential hardening is going to take from that even more. Thanks, I would go for the classic Katana geometry with a Bo-Hi, i guess u mean These with " a lot of Katanas" :/
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 19, 2019 6:07:44 GMT
Probably L6 Bainite, it should give a spine like a TH flexy heat treated sword combined with a DH hard edge. The L6 steel is only important because it allows the special bainite heat treatment on a DH blade. Without this there is probably not much difference between different steels, then all depends on the (not bainite) heat treatment. I think I misunderstood your question. From the steels you mentioned theoretically 9260 is best but I dont't think there is a great difference between them. Don't expect flexibility from a katana (geometry) and esp. from a DH kat (soft spine). It's like expecting a sharp edge from a club.
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Post by httpslave on Sept 19, 2019 4:30:28 GMT
I have a Helle fixed blade. The stainless outer layers are very soft and scratch easily. The center takes a very nice edge. However considering it is a fairly hefty knife it was disappointing to have it bend at the hilt when inserted in the vertebrate of a deer's neck at the base of the head in the course of removing said head. I guess the stick tang didn't help.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Sept 19, 2019 16:24:56 GMT
I'm not sure a differentially hardened blade would be good for a sparring sword. Typically, your sparring sword shouldn't be too hard, otherwise it's going to chew up your partners edge.
It also needs to be flexible, and not hurt your partner if you stab them with it, which even if you disallow thrusting can still happen.
As well as this it needs to be able to take abuse. Remember as well you'll need to replace it after a certain amount of time, So it doesn't make sense to spend a lot of money on the blade, especially when it's something like having a hamon which really doesn't change anything.
You should have a different cross section than a sharp as well. The traditional cross section is set up to be stiff.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Sept 19, 2019 16:29:06 GMT
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