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Post by haon on Jul 14, 2019 13:59:10 GMT
Hey there, so, I am about to get a new Katana for myself and I wanted to try something new. While i want to have something that is quite resitant to bending I also want something that looks well. Now I have to choose between 9260 (monohardened) with a fake Hamon, or a T10 blade with a real Hamon. It is going to be used for full contact practice, so it will be dull, dont worry Since me and my sparring partner are already a bit more experienced, both over 3 years, the extra flexibility of the 9260 might not be that necessary, but for sure not wrong and I was wondering if the T10 blade would be an suitable option, maybe some of you can help me out with own experiences. Thank you in advance, and please excuse my language, english is not my mother tongue. Furthermore, I hope you can see my point, explaining something is not something that I would describe as one of my strengths... Edit: What about a differential hardened 9260 blade?
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jul 14, 2019 16:29:50 GMT
For full contact practice you need a through hardened (TH) blade not a differentially hardened (DH) one with a hamon. With hard steel on steel contact the very hard edge of a DH blade (60+ HRC) can chip too easily and the soft spine (40 HRC) can take a set. A well heat treated TH blade with 50 - 55 HRC will be more flexible rather than taking a set and the blunt edge still hard enough to avoid saw teeth after steel contact. For this use a spring steel with ca. 0,6 % C is best, 1060, 5160, 9260 or others in this area. A good heat treatment is much more important than the differences between those spring steels. It's possible to make a TH blade with T10 or 1095 steel but blades made of 0,6 % C steel will be tougher.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Jul 18, 2019 6:38:01 GMT
Castille makes a safe sparring version of the katana that doesn't look bad. Won't be as pretty as you want but customization is the beautician of a fencer. castillearmory.com/product/build-your-own-katana/I've seen one at an SCA event and it was actually quite nice.
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Post by jackytheblade on Oct 13, 2019 2:32:34 GMT
I have a similar question funny enough. I am getting a nodachi with a 40 inch nagasa, however mine will be (eventually) used for cutting targets that includes bamboo. That said, I have been wondering if I should go with 9260 spring steel or go with T10. With niku based on my research either way appears to be a good idea for durability and perhaps to minimize wobbling. I welcome any input, considering I am coming form a Cold Steel bokken.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Oct 13, 2019 2:37:41 GMT
I have a similar question funny enough. I am getting a nodachi with a 40 inch nagasa, however mine will be (eventually) used for cutting targets that includes bamboo. That said, I have been wondering if I should go with 9260 spring steel or go with T10. With niku based on my research either way appears to be a good idea for durability and perhaps to minimize wobbling. I welcome any input, considering I am coming form a Cold Steel bokken. Bad idea imo to make a sparring sword that would be used as a sharp. Too many differences in geometry and blade characteristics to really make sense imho.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Oct 13, 2019 2:54:22 GMT
With niku based on my research either way appears to be a good idea for durability and perhaps to minimize wobbling. Niku might make wobbling worse. It adds weight to the blade, and only very minimally adds stiffness. The two things that will decrease wobbling are (a) a stiffer base of the blade, which can be achieved by making it thicker, and (b) a lighter tip half of the blade, which can be achieved by making it thinner and/or narrower.
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Post by jackytheblade on Oct 15, 2019 5:30:24 GMT
I have a similar question funny enough. I am getting a nodachi with a 40 inch nagasa, however mine will be (eventually) used for cutting targets that includes bamboo. That said, I have been wondering if I should go with 9260 spring steel or go with T10. With niku based on my research either way appears to be a good idea for durability and perhaps to minimize wobbling. I welcome any input, considering I am coming form a Cold Steel bokken. Bad idea imo to make a sparring sword that would be used as a sharp. Too many differences in geometry and blade characteristics to really make sense imho. Nope...I would not be sparring with it. Would be crazy to use a live blade for sparring. I was just saying most of my experience with swords comes from my ownership of a Cold Steel bokken...and well...a 440 stainless steel wallhanger ninjato. Swords are a rare occurrence in Jamaica where I am from because of the high restrictions and cost on their importation / ownership...as a result even owning a wallhangar is considered a big deal. Only since coming to the US have I had the chance to do anything other than lots and lots of reviewing and research on steels, blade shapes, things like that. That is the main reason why I am here. Maybe it would help If I shared some of the specs. I consulted three different companies regarding customizing a nodachi for me. Ryansword- seen a lot of mixed reviews about them, plenty good and plenty bad. Seems that a lot of the issues are rooted in the matter of lamination moreso than functionality. I went by a recommendation by a reviewer named Matthew Jensen and opted to not do any type of sanmai lamination with them. I chose the sword in the link below with a few modifications. I spoke with them on FB he seems pretty prompt and professional (which sadly, is how most people are only before they get your money). The nagasa was to be made 5 inches longer (40 inches), add a bo-hi, the tsuka 1 inch shorter and the blade should be 9260 spring steel (non-folded) instead of 1095. Handle to be a full wrap samegawa. changed a few of the fittings. Cost =$280 including shipping. www.ryansword.com/53-Odachi-Japanese-Long-Sword-1095-Carbon-Steel-Functional-Sharp--Ryan1274-p-860.html?fbclid=IwAR1ajbzUER0aY-c9cHliePu0JE-prDsSrqdFAUOeTacedRXgqTkGLfnr6YsSinoswords- A lot of great reviews here on SBG and comments / feedback on Jkoo swords and the amazing quality of their blades compared to the value for money that you get. I have also checked YT and found pretty much the same thing. They seem to be a great go-to for sword buyers. I decided to change the specs from the original a bit, as I have tempered my expectations considering that longer blades take more time...and are more likely to get messed up. Will resend to them to give me a quote and provided pics for reference (I hear they like pics). the pic will be attached. 9260 Spring Steel /T10 Steel Nagasa Length: 42 inch ( chu-kissaki) Handle Length: 13.5 inch Blade Shape: Shinogi Zukuri Blade Edge: sharp with niku Black Samegawa full wrap Blade Width (Near Kissaki): 1 inch Width (Near Habaki): 1.5 Inch Blade Sori(Curvature): 1 Inch Bo-hi: yes geometric. The original specs had a 44.5 inch blade... After a week I the notion felt ridiculous as while I am tall, I am not that tall (6 ft 1.5 in.) They told me $300 for 9260 and $350 for T10 but with it being shorter I believe the price may come down a bit. Swords of Northshire- This seems to be another very reputable company to do business with. I personally have called Bryce, really professional guy. It seems he also has really good post sale customer service as well. Plenty of good reviews here on SBG over the years and even some recent customers on YT have big recommendations and kudos. The quality of the blades is top notch. I understand that they source the work to other forges and some of their swords actually do come from Ryansword. They are the priciest of the lot, coming in at nearly $500 with shipping included. I may adjust to take off two inches on the nagasa and add an inch on the tang / nakago. Blade length: 42 inches (no hamon) > Handle length: 11 inches > Total: 53 inches > Blade Material: 9260 Spring Steel > Sharpness: Sharp with niku > Blade Shape: TX-03 shinogi zukuri (with 1 inch sori) geometric bo-hi Ito: I-06 (black cotton) katate maki (battle wrap). In my request for the blade to be a dotanuki blade, Bryce advised me of the the maximum specs. "we can make the blade (at habaki): 32mm width, 7.5-7.7mm thickness. We make our blades taper slowly as it gets closer to the tip." I believe this was what Jordan was referring to. Hopefully any of these specs make sense and can build a good nodachi. I also checked out the Ryujin T10 and Cheness 9260 O katana on this site, which I have also considered and still am. Any input is appreciated. Attachments:
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Post by john1 on Nov 11, 2019 19:53:42 GMT
For cutting Tatami - none of the through hardened 60% carbon spring steels hold an edge nearly as long as differentially hardened 995% carbon blades. The spring steel blades take a set less easily, but require sharpening every 3-6 months. The T10 blades cut slightly better because the steel sharpens to a finer edge, and only require sharpening every 9-12 months.
For hard targets like bamboo, you’ll want a different sword. - one with a heavy Appleseed grind (full Niku) instead of a thinner blade that cuts soft targets like tatami much much better. For a bamboo cutter, it’s easy to bend a blade on a mishit- so a through hardened spring steel blade wouldn’t be bad - since you won’t kink the blade and ruin it while you are learning proper cutting form. It will still dull way faster on bamboo once you are able to cut without bending the sword though.
Also be aware that a longer sword amplifies every little mistake in your form. So it’s incredibly easy to bend nodachi blades on mipoops. They are also super heavy. Heavy swords tend to give beginners elbow tendon injuries.
My recommendation is to buy a standard length T10 sword and have fun cutting pool noodles, the water filled bottles when you get a little better - and rolls of damp newspaper when you get pretty darn good.
Ps: MODS - Recommend moving this post to the beginner area.
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Post by jackytheblade on Nov 16, 2019 18:41:10 GMT
Thank you for this information John. One of the things I have been doing is prepping for the usage. I have been working my arms, shoulders and back for it. The good thing is the workouts I do in karate help a lot so weight is more a challenge than concern for me. I also considered TH T10 for the same reason you mentioned regarding edge retention. As it stands it seems I will be owning maybe 3 different swords. Frankly I am more concerned with blade durability than edge retention because I am not sure how often I will be cutting bamboo vs mats I can buy. Also nihonzashi is but a 2 hr drive, if a I need a rolled edge fixed then rather that than a chip or a set.I am looking at regular length katana as well to see what differences I should expect in weight from the bokken. As the thing is the bokken was...a little short for my comfort. The difference between 29 and 32 inch nagasa for me is negligible comparing to my chokuto that I had. A T10 is in my cart though, thanks for the advice.
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