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Post by Darth Paunch on Jul 13, 2019 21:44:09 GMT
Have you considered a H/T Great Sword of War? I don't own one ---yet---but I've heard almost unanimously across the board in reviews that this thing is a *beast*. I can attest to the strength of the construction of the entire H/T line, and the GSOW should be no different. This will probably be my next sword purchase. Like you, I want something that can take a thrashing and not crater on me. I don't really put my swords to much use, but it's nice to know there's one there that can take it...if so needed. I have considered that one but I prefer peened pommels. I'm also considering a Hanwei Scottish Claymore as well. I hear mentions of it occasionally failing however ; lot of mixed reviews about it. Some people say its amazing, some people say its crap and I can't get a real sense of where it leans. I'd also like to see it disassembled at some point as well but have never been able to find anything about anyone taking one apart to inspect the construction overall. The nut construction on the H/T line is EXACTLY what prevents the sword to get a loose crossguard. Well it WILL loosen up - but you can always tighten it back super easy. A peened sword will ALWAYS loosen up - full contact blunts for example are shaking all over after some full contact fight life... or you must re-peen the peened sords. Cold or hot.
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Post by dinvaas on Jul 14, 2019 0:57:53 GMT
I have considered that one but I prefer peened pommels. I'm also considering a Hanwei Scottish Claymore as well. I hear mentions of it occasionally failing however ; lot of mixed reviews about it. Some people say its amazing, some people say its crap and I can't get a real sense of where it leans. I'd also like to see it disassembled at some point as well but have never been able to find anything about anyone taking one apart to inspect the construction overall. The nut construction on the H/T line is EXACTLY what prevents the sword to get a loose crossguard. Well it WILL loosen up - but you can always tighten it back super easy. A peened sword will ALWAYS loosen up - full contact blunts for example are shaking all over after some full contact fight life... or you must re-peen the peened sords. Cold or hot. So that's more normal than I initially realize? That's unfortunate. I've always been told that even the more expensive stuff, while not immune to it, is far less likely to those sort of problems. A lot of reviews I've seen of Albion swords for example paint them as bordering on mythical and incapable of flaw, and even Skallagrim's insanely abusive treatment of them hardly shows any damage. But then again, it's to be expected that none of them last forever in their contemporary/"ideal" setting given how rough swords can be treated in combat -. That also makes my decision on which of my options I want to take less difficult but I'd still like to get as much insight and opinions as I can before making a final decision. Once again, any experience between the two options in question is greatly appreciated. I knew I still had a lot to learn but this just shows how much more I have to discover about swords.
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Post by Darth Paunch on Jul 14, 2019 7:00:27 GMT
Simple as that - a loosening crossguard is no "damage"; if you drive a sword down the rocky road, it will give in. Then it has to be re-peened, or you leave it as it is. It MIGHT happen later with an Albion, but it WILL happen. You may try BKS (Baltimore Knife & Sword)... they often WELD their crossguards to the tang, as many eastern european smiths and companies do it, especiall for full contact weaponry.
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Post by dinvaas on Jul 14, 2019 15:16:02 GMT
Simple as that - a loosening crossguard is no "damage"; if you drive a sword down the rocky road, it will give in. Then it has to be re-peened, or you leave it as it is. It MIGHT happen later with an Albion, but it WILL happen. You may try BKS (Baltimore Knife & Sword)... they often WELD their crossguards to the tang, as many eastern european smiths and companies do it, especiall for full contact weaponry. Do they? That's interesting to know. Does anyone have any experience with BKS? I follow their youtube but have never considered buying one of their swords
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Post by mpsmith47304 on Jul 14, 2019 17:57:31 GMT
I've owned a couple BKS swords over the years. They really started making stage combat swords, and still focus on that market a lot. If you want a cutter from them, make sure what you are looking at the right sword. Also, the majority of their swords are not really historical, though they are capable of making a good replica. In my experience, their blades are tough, but appearance depends upon the price and in my view, they tend to be more expensive than comparable products.
AS others have said, a loose guard does not necessarily indicate damage beyond a slight loosening of the hilt if it is a compression fit construction. Ideally, you want fitting properly set onto the tang, though that tends to show up only in higher end swords.
A prime question is: What do you consider a "mid-tier" piece, price-wise? And what do you consider the most important characteristics of the sword for you?
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Post by dinvaas on Jul 14, 2019 19:22:01 GMT
I've owned a couple BKS swords over the years. They really started making stage combat swords, and still focus on that market a lot. If you want a cutter from them, make sure what you are looking at the right sword. Also, the majority of their swords are not really historical, though they are capable of making a good replica. In my experience, their blades are tough, but appearance depends upon the price and in my view, they tend to be more expensive than comparable products. AS others have said, a loose guard does not necessarily indicate damage beyond a slight loosening of the hilt if it is a compression fit construction. Ideally, you want fitting properly set onto the tang, though that tends to show up only in higher end swords. A prime question is: What do you consider a "mid-tier" piece, price-wise? And what do you consider the most important characteristics of the sword for you? From what I understand, mid tier tends to range between $400-600 range. And for me, the most important characteristics of a sword, not including its functionality in hand and how it feels to use the sword, is the sword's structural integrity. If we were to include how it feels to use the sword, how it sits in the hand and how the grip is designed (as I've had a few swords that just didn't feel comfortable to hold - poorly stitched leather, overly round shape, etc.), and how agile and dynamic it is to swing. I like my swords made strong and secure but also very easy to control. Which is why I'm drawn to the longsword after my first swords being katanas. The longsword to me seems like a very good compromise balanced item. I do like the look and feel of something like a claymore or a greatsword but the sheer size, while a very attractive quality, of such a massive sword makes it difficult to control in the swing from what I've personally experienced. Not to say that I don't think it can be done, its very possible for a strong individual. But I want something that is an excellent balance between strength and speed so those are things I look for in a sword. With that in mind, I do try to look for swords that meet this sort of middle ground.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Jul 14, 2019 19:33:10 GMT
If you are going to buy a sword that you plan on using for heavy targets and general abuse I reccomend going cheap. Np use spending 400+ on a sword with proper edge geometry and balance if you aren't going to treat it right.
A windlass will take all the abuse you throw at it and probably more. I have literally used a windlass as a pull up bar and then beat it against tree rounds.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jul 14, 2019 21:08:51 GMT
I'll buy that 100%.
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Post by dinvaas on Jul 15, 2019 1:08:49 GMT
If you are going to buy a sword that you plan on using for heavy targets and general abuse I reccomend going cheap. Np use spending 400+ on a sword with proper edge geometry and balance if you aren't going to treat it right. A windlass will take all the abuse you throw at it and probably more. I have literally used a windlass as a pull up bar and then beat it against tree rounds. Yeah the more budget friendly hanwei claymore is sounding more and more appealing as I learn more from everyone's advice and suggestions.
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Jul 15, 2019 1:34:42 GMT
FWIW....I studied on the Hanwei claymore for a looong time before I pulled the trigger on one. In all of that study, I only ever heard of one instance of a catastrophic blade failure. I don't remember the exact circumstances of the cause of the failure, or even where I read about it...but it's the only one I know of. Why the owner didn't take photos, I'll never know.
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Post by anima on Jul 15, 2019 4:47:59 GMT
I got the Hanwei Claymore it's a great sword, needs to be sharpened more if you want to cut with it though!
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Post by rjodorizzi on Jul 15, 2019 13:56:20 GMT
If you are going to buy a sword that you plan on using for heavy targets and general abuse I reccomend going cheap. Np use spending 400+ on a sword with proper edge geometry and balance if you aren't going to treat it right. A windlass will take all the abuse you throw at it and probably more. I have literally used a windlass as a pull up bar and then beat it against tree rounds. Yeah the more budget friendly hanwei claymore is sounding more and more appealing as I learn more from everyone's advice and suggestions. If you really do plan on beating it around, you would do FAR better with a nut construction. As others have said, eventually ALL hilt assemblies will work themselves loose if you abuse them enough. Shims and peen fixes can be done but are harder for the inexperienced. A nut assembly allows you to tighten at will, you can also just loctite the screw and it will very (and I mean VERY rarely) work itself lose. The only other thing I'll say is that when I first started collecting a long time ago I was overwhelmingly obsessed with durability. As you continue to collect, I recommend you try to walk that back. I missed out on TONS of pieces that were amazing because of my, admittedly false, understanding of what "real" expectations of blades were. Not that you should make sacrifices for sempriniesque built pieces, but durability is only PART of the puzzle. I've got my ZT and a John Gage piece that are both virtually indestructible, and they scratch that itch, but I've got others made factoring in ALL the pieces (distal taper, edge geometry etc) and they are by far and away more beloved by me. End of the day it's your cash so spend it how you will, I just thought I'd throw that out there :-). Happy hunting!
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jul 15, 2019 14:50:36 GMT
I think generally people go for peened pommels. As for me I prefer a threaded one, assuming the stud is of sufficient diameter. Wood has a tendency to change size and that is easily taken care of simply by tightening the nut. Sometimes these changes occur due to improper curing and other times to humidity changes. And I believe that over time it’s possible that the wood fibres get compressed and need attention. Disassembly aids in maintenance. I would much prefer to sharpen a bare blade than with all that junk of the hilt hanging on the end. That’s not as important now since I have a Work Sharp but it still makes a difference.
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