stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Jun 24, 2019 21:03:18 GMT
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on Jun 24, 2019 21:12:10 GMT
I doubt it, because it is an antique I do not think customs would give you trouble or anything. Tbh unless they read the same ad they would not even know. (I am not positive on this, just my 2 sense.)
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Post by pellius on Jun 24, 2019 21:20:24 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2019 21:30:46 GMT
More likely mastadon or walrus ivory. As long as the date can be proven, there are forms. Or, don't worry about it. The seller is the responsible party. Elephant ivory was not a growing market source until the 19th century. There were Russian mastadon mines supplying most of the ivory trade until the Napoleonic era. I have several ivory grips that are material thousands of years old. A problem in testing alone is that old and other than elephant ivory is very much the same. Ask the seller regarding any concerns about export and import.
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stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Jun 24, 2019 21:37:28 GMT
Hmm i will think about it and weight the risks lol, on the side note tho there is some wiggle on the guard cause the washer is gone, is there anyone who does new washers?
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on Jun 24, 2019 21:41:09 GMT
Hmm i will think about it and weight the risks lol, on the side note tho there is some wiggle on the guard cause the washer is gone, is there anyone who does new washers? Do you know what the washer is made of?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2019 21:54:30 GMT
Many swords, even well into the 19th century, had the blades seated on a leather or textile bumper/washer. Greased/oiled, they were a weather seal. I use super glue (diligently and sparingly). Cutting a washer and sliding one down the blade easy enough but cutting one so as to actually support the blade to eliminate movement pretty much impossible. Alternately, grind off the peen and redo the assembly entirely. I would use two drops of superglue and cut a leather washer but it was probably/originally felt.
Jmo, ymmv
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on Jun 24, 2019 22:35:03 GMT
Many swords, even well into the 19th century, had the blades seated on a leather or textile bumper/washer. Greased/oiled, they were a weather seal. I use super glue (diligently and sparingly). Cutting a washer and sliding one down the blade easy enough but cutting one so as to actually support the blade to eliminate movement pretty much impossible. Alternately, grind off the peen and redo the assembly entirely. I would use two drops of superglue and cut a leather washer but it was probably/originally felt. Jmo, ymmv some epoxy may work as well. epoxy I have found holds a bit tighter than super glue as it is more of a cement type binder. I usually use it on wood or metal tho. so I am not positive how well it would work on leather.
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stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Jun 24, 2019 22:41:40 GMT
Ah so the entire construction would have to be repeened if i want it tight without using glue
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Post by demonskull on Jun 24, 2019 22:49:32 GMT
Technically you can import it. You or the seller may be required to show evidence that the sword is at least 100 years old. That should be relatively easy in this particular instance as the type of sword is easy to document to the 17th century. The only problem I can see is if you get someone who confiscates it first and doesn't allow for provenance before it's destroyed or "lost".
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2019 23:17:40 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2019 23:31:37 GMT
Ah so the entire construction would have to be repeened if i want it tight without using glue Yes, it likely a compression fit but I see pins in one side as well as well. Those may have been simply filling holes from buttons that have been removed (see my cuttoe thread, those are not pins through the tang) Without having the piece in hand, it is tough to say how much is loose. If it is just the guard that is loose, I would still go with two drops of superglue and add a well fitted washer that is slit in such a way as to tuck under the blade. Superglue can be removed/broken (acetone) if used sparingly. I use a lot of it, and waxed dental floss. I don't know what your intentions might be but if wanting it to be functional, as a hunting sword (maiming, butchering, carving, etc), then it needs to come apart and be reseated dry. I'll honestly be surprised if you do buy it but if you do, antiques are the ultimate wallhangers. I did buy one sabre specifically to cut with and have cut with some others but the majority of my dozens deserve the pasture they live in (or in this case most are in a storage unit).
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2019 23:44:03 GMT
Many swords, even well into the 19th century, had the blades seated on a leather or textile bumper/washer. Greased/oiled, they were a weather seal. I use super glue (diligently and sparingly). Cutting a washer and sliding one down the blade easy enough but cutting one so as to actually support the blade to eliminate movement pretty much impossible. Alternately, grind off the peen and redo the assembly entirely. I would use two drops of superglue and cut a leather washer but it was probably/originally felt. Jmo, ymmv some epoxy may work as well. epoxy I have found holds a bit tighter than super glue as it is more of a cement type binder. I usually use it on wood or metal tho. so I am not positive how well it would work on leather. By all means, use what works for_you_.
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stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Jun 25, 2019 0:22:49 GMT
Ah so the entire construction would have to be repeened if i want it tight without using glue Yes, it likely a compression fit but I see pins in one side as well as well. Those may have been simply filling holes from buttons that have been removed (see my cuttoe thread, those are not pins through the tang) Without having the piece in hand, it is tough to say how much is loose. If it is just the guard that is loose, I would still go with two drops of superglue and add a well fitted washer that is slit in such a way as to tuck under the blade. Superglue can be removed/broken (acetone) if used sparingly. I use a lot of it, and waxed dental floss. I don't know what your intentions might be but if wanting it to be functional, as a hunting sword (maiming, butchering, carving, etc), then it needs to come apart and be reseated dry. I'll honestly be surprised if you do buy it but if you do, antiques are the ultimate wallhangers. I did buy one sabre specifically to cut with and have cut with some others but the majority of my dozens deserve the pasture they live in (or in this case most are in a storage unit). I just dont like looseness, was not planning on using it for anything
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on Jun 25, 2019 0:27:16 GMT
Yes, it likely a compression fit but I see pins in one side as well as well. Those may have been simply filling holes from buttons that have been removed (see my cuttoe thread, those are not pins through the tang) Without having the piece in hand, it is tough to say how much is loose. If it is just the guard that is loose, I would still go with two drops of superglue and add a well fitted washer that is slit in such a way as to tuck under the blade. Superglue can be removed/broken (acetone) if used sparingly. I use a lot of it, and waxed dental floss. I don't know what your intentions might be but if wanting it to be functional, as a hunting sword (maiming, butchering, carving, etc), then it needs to come apart and be reseated dry. I'll honestly be surprised if you do buy it but if you do, antiques are the ultimate wallhangers. I did buy one sabre specifically to cut with and have cut with some others but the majority of my dozens deserve the pasture they live in (or in this case most are in a storage unit). I just dont like looseness, was not planning on using it for anything I agree, even for a wall hanger, looseness is a no no.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2019 0:34:04 GMT
As mentioned, a couple of discreet drops of superglue would likely solve the issue and then felt or leather of appropriate thickness. Some drive shims in along the tang Sometimes a few winds of floss at a ferrule or pommel. I actually just used floss under the peen washer and between the ferrule and guard on this recently received sword and one drop of glue to tack the sheet steel to the back/heel of the grip. Plenty tight enough to now get to working on the blade some.
With the sword you listed, I would do only enough to stabilize the hilt (and not by disturbing the peen).
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2019 0:52:24 GMT
I'm a bit skeptical that the butt is showing silver inlay, or even the guard. Considering the fit of the butt cap, that may be a period composite affair. A pretty piece but for "just looking at", I'd shop around. If those pins are securing the tang, you'll not get them out easily. The more I look at it, the more it all seems composite but may have had a cut down blade from the get go. Typically, a fancy hunting sword would have hunting scenes etched and not what we see. The fuller does seem to run right past the point. The ferrule faceting doesn't follow the grip lines, on and on in looking at it. Like I say, and old composite and possibly in the life of its actual use.
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Jun 25, 2019 6:02:46 GMT
On the subject of composites: I have some hunting swords I suspect of having factory seconds or broken blades used. One has part of a what I think was a Cuirassier pallash as blade. Is there any study published on this subject? I have the impression this hunting sword cum hanger fashion rayher leaned on re-use. Waste not, want not. That kind of thing. It seems not to be easy to find a hunting dagger, hanger or sword with a blade made specifically for it. Even your cuttoe seems to have a part of an Hussar sabre blade. Actually I find this re-use thing very interesting and if done in the period, no problem at all.
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Post by Lord Newport on Aug 25, 2021 0:24:25 GMT
More likely mastadon or walrus ivory. As long as the date can be proven, there are forms. Or, don't worry about it. The seller is the responsible party. Elephant ivory was not a growing market source until the 19th century. There were Russian mastadon mines supplying most of the ivory trade until the Napoleonic era. I have several ivory grips that are material thousands of years old. A problem in testing alone is that old and other than elephant ivory is very much the same. Ask the seller regarding any concerns about export and import. Mastadon mines?
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Post by bas on Aug 25, 2021 4:19:24 GMT
More likely mastadon or walrus ivory. As long as the date can be proven, there are forms. Or, don't worry about it. The seller is the responsible party. Elephant ivory was not a growing market source until the 19th century. There were Russian mastadon mines supplying most of the ivory trade until the Napoleonic era. I have several ivory grips that are material thousands of years old. A problem in testing alone is that old and other than elephant ivory is very much the same. Ask the seller regarding any concerns about export and import. Mastadon mines? The Russian Steppes used to be awash with mammoths and their carcass's can still be found preserved in the permifrost. The tusks from these remains have long been an alternative source to elephant ivory. I think there is still a limited trade in mammoth ivory today.
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