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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 12, 2019 18:36:22 GMT
Yeah - a 3.75 grip is my expectation but if I like the sword enough and it is middle range or below in price will consider up to a 4-inch grip. Will not buy a longer Viking gripped sword unless a fantasy 2-handed.....lol That seems a fair compromise to what's on the market at budget prices. Seems a large portion of reviews from dissatisfied customers of Viking age swords say the grip is too small - so I can see why smiths just said to hell with it, make what sells. Still really odd though, seeing what sells xD
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jun 12, 2019 21:08:25 GMT
So... If you get a hex nut version of the H/T viking, you can always file the tang and add threads, to shorten the grip. Same goes for the Godfried.
Now, IMO, the Godfried is just freaking awesome, but the blades can be oddly temepered, there have been past issues with softness. The H/T viking is a true workhorse.
So really, find what you like, and do a little modding. Don't get too hung up on a long handle.
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Post by William Swiger on Jun 12, 2019 23:26:35 GMT
I don't like long grips on viking swords too, but my Godfred (ca. 4") feels ok at least for my xl hand, hammer grip + 0,5 cm space, handshake & pommeling matches. The Saxon needs a bit rework and is a heavy crowbar. Del Tin swords look well but the viking swords are too heavy and the migration era swords are rather vendel period. The Hanwei Saxon was just a crowbar. Really disappointed with the one I once had.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 13, 2019 1:12:32 GMT
So... If you get a hex nut version of the H/T viking, you can always file the tang and add threads, to shorten the grip. Same goes for the Godfried. Now, IMO, the Godfried is just freaking awesome, but the blades can be oddly temepered, there have been past issues with softness. The H/T viking is a true workhorse. So really, find what you like, and do a little modding. Don't get too hung up on a long handle. I honestly did not know the Godfred had a hexnut version! While on one hand, I'd prefer a peened tang, I think I could likely find someone to shorten the handle etc (mi padre is a CNC machinist, but makes rather large pumps instead of swords xD) eventually if I wasn't satisfied with the factory grip size once it was in hand. I'm planning on writing a message to Mr Burridge via Facebook tonight about getting something made though. It's become rather important to me suddenly haha.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jun 14, 2019 13:34:33 GMT
The Godfried isn't a hexnut, its a nut on a little bit of threaded tang, covered over with a glue on disk to hide it. Functionally the same though.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Jun 14, 2019 14:29:31 GMT
I haven't seen a hex nut H/T Viking since the sword first came out. I'm glad mine is peened. The nut construction would throw off the overall looks, in my opinion.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 14, 2019 18:19:22 GMT
How likely would a complete novice be to ruin the edge/tip, or structural integrity, if one were to attempt making the tip rounded and the diamond ridges more lenticular?
Would that just achieved by a slow and careful process of filing the diamond away, then re-polishing the metal?
I have an older Musashi katana I'm thinking of practicing sharpening and polishing on (not that it needs it, aside from a little rust removal above the hamon from my thumb guiding it to scabbard years ago).
Not sure if working on the katana would give me much insight on working on a viking age replica though, aside from general knowledge of how to work on metal with hand tools.
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Zen_Hydra
Moderator
Born with a heart full of neutrality
Posts: 2,625
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Jun 14, 2019 18:31:47 GMT
How likely would a complete novice be to ruin the edge/tip, or structural integrity, if one were to attempt making the tip rounded and the diamond ridges more lenticular? Would that just achieved by a slow and careful process of filing the diamond away, then re-polishing the metal? I have an older Musashi katana I'm thinking of practicing sharpening and polishing on (not that it needs it, aside from a little rust removal above the hamon from my thumb guiding it to scabbard years ago). Not sure if working on the katana would give me much insight on working on a viking age replica though, aside from general knowledge of how to work on metal with hand tools. If you are using muscle power, with metal files and sandpaper, this process should be pretty easy to do right. It will be time consuming, but because you are removing metal at such a slow pace it should be easy to gauge how much more you need to do before the ridge line is gone and the point has become more rounded. Once you get the reshaping done you can worry about getting the polish back the way you want it.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 14, 2019 18:45:05 GMT
It's not hard to make a spatular tip and with muscle power and file etc. working on a blade goes slowly. To smooth a diamond cross section ridge is more work this way. I have a tiny Worksharp belt sander and even with this help it's not easy to rework a blade. The problem with a Worksharp indeed is NOT making a spatular tip when sharpening the tip section.
Edit: The polish is indeed a thing to consider. I ended with a satin polish all over a former shiny blade. Ok for me, but one should know
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Post by randomnobody on Jun 14, 2019 19:34:08 GMT
I've broken a number of knife tips and had to regrind them, usually resulting in a rounder tip than they used to have. It's not a lot of work, but I've also messed up a favorite knife by grinding too much. It was sharpened/polished at a grit I don't have, so I've not been able to recover it since. But the tip is fine. As for diamond to lenticular, it oughtn't be too hard. Biggest challenge will be keeping the grind even. Something with some slack would be a good way to go about it, perhaps, like the aforementioned kit.
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Post by warriorpoet on Jun 16, 2019 13:21:58 GMT
I think the current state of production Viking swords is quite good and I've had my share.
My first was windlass stiklestad. Very good sword, good temper. Very tough, well made. Nice runic engravings, no issues here.
Windlass leuterit. Love the wood handle, nice wide blade, nickle silver. Also really well made no issues. I believe discontinued. Very fun to use with the wide blade.
Deepeka 5 lobe, excellent scabbard for the price. Good retention. Wood core. Handle was long per the preference of some modern sword buyers who don't understand the 3 inch grip of the Viking whilst having 4 plus inch width grips. It held up to cutting except for the leather wrap grip, no biggie to redo much better. Some nice detail too with 2 piece pommel, wire wrap etc. Not bad at all for a buck twenty amiright?
Gen 2 legacy arms skofnung 2 handed, obviously fantasy. Loved the look. Very heavy. Pommel came loose from minor use. Sold at a loss to someone who was going to rework it. Very cool looking /cool concept.
Windlass ulfberet, highly recommended. Nice wide blade stiff, good blade presence. This one above the others, I like and keep. It just feels "right" and has it in performance. I appreciate the inscription on the blade. No issues.
Windlass runic long seax. Also highly recommended. I take this hiking with me sometimes. It's light, fast, peened and tough. Beautiful blade love the runes. Grip can come loose, easy to glue down or redo. Wicked stabber and great chopper. Keeping this one too, no issues. Consider this for your seax.
Finally Fafnir forge 10th century Viking, purchased from a member of this forum. Very impressive at its price, no issues great balance, temper, amazing wood core traditional scabbard. Only beef is the blade less than 2 inches wide, but still historical I just like a wide Viking blade (preference).
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Post by MOK on Jun 17, 2019 8:01:47 GMT
FWIW, I rounded out the secondary bevels and erased the central ridge on my H/T Viking in one afternoon of draw filing and sanding. It's waaayyy safer for the sword than using power tools, especially if you haven't done this before (but mind your fingers).
The grip is one finger's width too long, though, like it's made for the six-fingered man. No joke - I briefly planned to make it a fingergrooved grip like you see on many older Norse and Anglo-Saxon swords, but realized that I'd have to make five grooves to have any hope of my fingers actually fitting in them...
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 20, 2019 3:59:04 GMT
I just wanted to say, this has all been extremely informative and I really appreciate everyone chiming in. I've been busy with finding stuff to get rid of/sell to increase my budget, so I can get a scabbard made alongside a custom sword. It won't be a viking blade, but I might get some nordic bronze age solar symbolism in there if I can.
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