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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 18:11:51 GMT
I'm looking to purchase a viking era sword soon, and I've been doing lots of window shopping. My desires on specifics are as follows: I'd prefer it have a wide fuller, a shorter handle, small cross-guard, and a near rounded spatulate tip. I've never used/held a viking era sword so no preference yet on pommel type.
I've read that the Hanwei/Tinker Viking is built for nailing historically accurate aspects if not an actual museum replica- and might be the best bet for the correct "feel" while on budget. It has no frills but presumably could be DIY'ed in the future if I were to find the money and (or become) a willing craftsman. It's tip doesn't appear rounded iirc. Nitpicks aside, won't this sword feel and work better, with blade harmonics/vibrations travelling to the hand etc, as compared to a sword that was diamond shaped and with a fuller ground in?
Albion has ( or had, rather; the link broke the day I discovered it) the Squire Line Type H Viking blade for about twice as much- but it also comes with no frills nor even a floppy sheath. I'd say my budget is max $500, but honestly I'd like to stay below if it's not coming with a sheath or scabbard.
Valiant Armory has a nice looking "Hedemark" for a good price (around 4-500 USD) with frills and leather worked scabbard etc, but the 20-24 wk wait time is no good for me. That's literally the only thing keeping me from seriously considering them.
Windlass seem to be the next rung on the ladder. But at this point I'll really need to find someone to sharpen it for me, as well as turn the tip truly spatulate. Has anyone ever asked if MRL or KoA would offer that alongside the sharpening service?
Im really torn between finding a good looking Windlass with small handle and forget the spatulate tip, and getting a plain jane more expensive sword that may feel closer to it's historical counterparts.
Let me know if I'm completely missing options. (I know Dark Sword Armory exists, but they seem generally more expensive and don't come sharpened either.)
All the best, Casey
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 11, 2019 18:26:09 GMT
I don't think it makes a difference in blade harmonics on a long fullered viking sword whether the tip area is lenticular or diamond. A too acute tip is relative easily rounded spatular with a file or not enough attention when sharpening with a belt sander/Worksharp. An alternative blade could be the H/T Norman blade, mine has a spatular tip (no belt sander involved).
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
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Post by stormmaster on Jun 11, 2019 18:26:22 GMT
Albion has a 12 month wait
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 18:51:14 GMT
I don't think it makes a difference in blade harmonics on a long fullered viking sword whether the tip area is lenticular or diamond. A too acute tip is relative easily rounded spatular with a file or not enough attention when sharpening with a belt sander/Worksharp. An alternative blade could be the H/T Norman blade, mine has a spatular tip (no belt sander involved). I'd heard good things about the Norman, but the guard looked a little too long for my unstudied understanding and fledgling preference for viking era swords. I do suppose they could be shortened or replaced? Also if I may ask, did yours come adequately sharpened, or did you ask the seller to sharpen it? I've heard that even Hanwei doesn't put a great edge on their European styled blades (iirc from an older Skallagrim YT video).
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 18:54:06 GMT
Albion has a 12 month wait Damn, Im pretty sure I had read that- but possibly confused it with seeing an Albion for sale second hand and immediately ready to ship Many thanks for setting my expectations back in line with reality haha.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 11, 2019 19:03:50 GMT
Original sharpess is ok on mine. The Norman guard is too long and the brasil nut pommel also isn't really right, that's why I wrote "blade". I'm not sure if a bare Norman blade is for sale like for the other H/T's. To make a pointy tip spatular isn't a great deal even for a person with five thumbs on a hand like me.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 19:28:43 GMT
Original sharpess is ok on mine. The Norman guard is too long and the brasil nut pommel also isn't really right, that's why I wrote "blade". I'm not sure if a bare Norman blade is for sale like for the other H/T's. To make a pointy tip spatular isn't a great deal even for a person with five thumbs on a hand like me. Hah, I'll keep in mind the ease of making tips spatular; I live in an apartment with little to no access to tools anymore. (else I'd be getting some kinda proto-germanic spear if I had the room xD.) I'm imagining it would be much more difficult to buy, say, a Windlass viking type model, with those diamond tips, and flatten that down?
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 11, 2019 19:39:51 GMT
Yes, more work needed. Tbh, my first viking sword has a diamond cross section at the tip area, I don't care and still love it. It also has a pointy tip and so much more historical mistakes, but what a beast... (at least it has a really wide fuller)
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 20:03:32 GMT
Yes, more work needed. Tbh, my first viking sword has a diamond cross section at the tip area, I don't care and still love it. It also has a pointy tip and so much more historical mistakes, but what a beast... (at least it has a really wide fuller) What was your first viking sword? I only own one long bladed weapon, a budget Musashi which is "meh" to me now. It's time to change that though heh. Ideally I'd get a Minoan bronze "rapier", but they don't seem very popular lol. I'm really digging the look of Windlass various viking offerings, and a few even have that sandwiched handle I'm so curious about, after seeing Roland Warcheza (SP)/ Dimicator, and others discuss handling a viking sword.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 11, 2019 20:12:30 GMT
It's a Legacy Arms/Generation 2 River Witham Viking sword from 2012. This company was bought by Hanwei later and in the meantime this sword is 1lb heavier. When I got it I was totally stunned how long and wide a viking sword could be. Not light but managable. There are older reviews of my Witham here in the forum that hit the point.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 20:29:27 GMT
It's a Legacy Arms/Generation 2 River Witham Viking sword from 2012. This company was bought by Hanwei later and in the meantime this sword is 1lb heavier. When I got it I was totally stunned how long and wide a viking sword could be. Not light but managable. There are older reviews of my Witham here in the forum that hit the point. Aho! Indeed, I've read your review and subsequently found the sword for sale, well within my budget. It's listed as Legacy Arms/Gen 2 on the site so I assume it's from the older days. Didn't know Hanwei bought them out. Do you know if it's true about Coldsteel actually using Windlass blades? I read that today, albeit on an ancient thread.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 11, 2019 20:38:38 GMT
Cold Steel is a reseller, not a forge. Their wares are made by several sources all over the world. Their European/US sabers probably have the same (Indian) source as Windlass. Some Windlass sabers have a Cold Steel stamp on the tang. Other swords or knives come from China (Huanuo/Dynasty) or South Afrika. The medieval European swords probably are from China afaik.
LA/Gen2 swords still can be sold without mentioning that they're Cas Iberia/Hanwei. They still are forged at the Philippines, but now the Witham is close to 4 lb.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 21:10:07 GMT
Has there been any misrepresentation to the weight to your knowledge? Like, do they sell newer ones listed as 3lbs? Kult of Athena has it listed, but warns that they've found the steel too soft to be "battle ready". I wonder if that means trees and treated wood 😂. I'm growing warmer to the idea of this sword, after rereading your review, and the wiki about the sword, and seeing the blade tip. Id love to have a sword worthy of Egil Skallagrimson Did you ever rework the scabbard?
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 11, 2019 21:42:30 GMT
It's not impossible that there are wrong weight stats, sometimes the said weight is with scabbard, I don't know. The "not battle ready" thing is caused by the way the swords are forged at the Philippines. It is said that the heat treatment there is not consistently enough so that their swords could be too hard/brittle and breaking. Too soft is not dangerous, too hard is! Years ago the Gen2 swords from the same source were known as tough beaters and I didn't hear of changes of the blades there. It's mysterious, all in all I can only recommend my old 2012 one (3 lb +) but not the new ones (4 lb -) , I don't know them.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 11, 2019 23:03:04 GMT
It's very mysterious hah. Much more complicated than I anticipated going in, having learned recently how affordable and customizable katana reproductions can be made for these days. I'll send some sellers some emails asking them.
Do you have any of the Windlass line of viking swords from recent years by chance?
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 12, 2019 2:43:39 GMT
No Windlass, I have a Hanwei Godfred, a nimble pattern welded sword, but a bit ahistorical too. I also have a Hanwei Saxon which isn't exactly a viking sword, I reworked its tip btw. . The older Windlass viking swords weren't to my taste. I'm watching the newer Windlass/Marto swords which look better now, but still there is no buying impulse.
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 12, 2019 5:24:43 GMT
The Godfred almost had me sold, I was eyeing it really, really hard until I decided that grip length is too important for me. If the handle was shorter I'd go for it despite the other ahistorical touches. It's still a very nice looking package as a whole. Looks like the Saxons been out of make for awhile now- disappointing as it certainly looks pretty at cursory glance. This is gonna drive me crazy. I'm wondering if getting on a waiting list for something more expensive isn't such a crazy idea after all haha. Neil Burridge is apparently still making Bronze age swords and so I've emailed him about the longer Aegean "rapier" type Ci as it's listed as in development still However, I've been studying the Nordic Bronze Age recently so I might lean that way somehow. If anyones reading this far down and can chime in about Burridge I'd love to know more about his work.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 12, 2019 5:44:43 GMT
I don't like long grips on viking swords too, but my Godfred (ca. 4") feels ok at least for my xl hand, hammer grip + 0,5 cm space, handshake & pommeling matches. The Saxon needs a bit rework and is a heavy crowbar. Del Tin swords look well but the viking swords are too heavy and the migration era swords are rather vendel period.
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Post by William Swiger on Jun 12, 2019 9:36:05 GMT
Yeah - a 3.75 grip is my expectation but if I like the sword enough and it is middle range or below in price will consider up to a 4-inch grip. Will not buy a longer Viking gripped sword unless a fantasy 2-handed.....lol
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Post by cheesecutter on Jun 12, 2019 18:28:53 GMT
I don't like long grips on viking swords too, but my Godfred (ca. 4") feels ok at least for my xl hand, hammer grip + 0,5 cm space, handshake & pommeling matches. The Saxon needs a bit rework and is a heavy crowbar. Del Tin swords look well but the viking swords are too heavy and the migration era swords are rather vendel period. I'd probably be shopping for Migration era or Vendel period if I knew what to look for. I've spent so much time reading about ancient history- that when I actually discovered what Viking swords looked and felt like- I had to rethink my mental imagery for the Sagas again and again haha. I think I'm heavily leaning towards a Bronze age sword now though. Of all the time periods, the Bronze age has the biggest allure for me. I've got to get a Neil Burridge blade before the years out.
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