pgandy
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Post by pgandy on May 26, 2019 1:29:11 GMT
Have you got an off hand dagger? I have become quite fond of main gauche daggers as of late in my fencing experience, And feel the protection and length of the blade would even the odds against a machete in a hallway using a thrusting sword. Oh yes, the Windlass discontinued Poignard and like it; nice long curving quillons that will trap a blade. That in the offhand makes feel much more formidable. I’ve been waiting for whomever to restock Windlass’ Main Gauche. But somehow I feel, and I know a dagger is more aggressive, more secure with a shield. If I had a sparring partner to practice with I could very well change my opinion. I know the shield works.
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Post by Jordan Williams on May 26, 2019 1:41:31 GMT
Have you got an off hand dagger? I have become quite fond of main gauche daggers as of late in my fencing experience, And feel the protection and length of the blade would even the odds against a machete in a hallway using a thrusting sword. Oh yes, the Windlass discontinued Poignard and like it; nice long curving quillons that will trap a blade. That in the offhand makes feel much more formidable. I’ve been waiting for whomever to restock Windlass’ Main Gauche. But somehow I feel, and I know a dagger is more aggressive, more secure with a shield. If I had a sparring partner to practice with I could very well change my opinion. I know the shield works. Nice. Yeah, I prefer a dagger over a shield but that's just due to my own experience being mostly in thrust centric styles of swordsmanship. The windlass main gauche is something I've been considering as well for a while.
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Post by mrbadexample on May 28, 2019 0:18:12 GMT
Oh, dear. I just saw that I fat fingered 3” while describing the bamboo I cut. That’s absurd. I meant to type a 2, and by green I mean the living stuff I was clearing out of my yard. Way easier to cut the juicy green stuff. Still impressive, but not 3” impressive.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 4, 2019 11:19:42 GMT
My Windlass/Marto 1913 Patton sword arrived today. It's a real cut and thrust blade. For a rapier the blade is a bit too short, the hilt is heavy and you can't lay a finger over a ricasso. On the other side it can be used like the early Meyer rapier and has a good point control. The blade is thick and stiff for thrusting but has also cutting power. I think for a sidesword or cutting rapier for fencing the hilt might be too heavy and the whole sword a bit too sluggish therefore. Probably very good for the cavalry attack it was designed for. With a lighter hilt I think it would be a really good allround sword.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 4, 2019 13:38:19 GMT
My Windlass/Marto 1913 Patton sword arrived today. It's a real cut and thrust blade. For a rapier the blade is a bit too short, the hilt is heavy and you can't lay a finger over a ricasso. On the other side it can be used like the early Meyer rapier and has a good point control. The blade is thick and stiff for thrusting but has also cutting power. I think for a sidesword or cutting rapier for fencing the hilt might be too heavy and the whole sword a bit too sluggish therefore. Probably very good for the cavalry attack it was designed for. With a lighter hilt I think it would be a really good allround sword. Thanks for the quick review, or rather opinion. It sums up what I had thought. Thanks.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 4, 2019 19:09:42 GMT
With some dry handling I found out two tricks.
It's possible to use it with both hands like a longsword. The really big hilt has a hand and a half size and you can use the second hand there, even within the bowl guard
You can hold it like pommeling a viking sword at the lower end of the grip and so it becomes more lively than with hammer grip. Somehow the hilt weights then adds to the blade weight for more oomph in a hewing cut and you can move the sword with more leverage from below the PoB.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Jun 4, 2019 19:21:21 GMT
With some dry handling I found out two tricks. It's possible to use it with both hands like a longsword. The really big hilt has a hand and a half size and you can use the second hand there, even within the bowl guard You can hold it like pommeling a viking sword at the lower end of the grip and so it becomes more lively than with hammer grip. Somehow the hilt weights then adds to the blade weight for more oomph in a hewing cut and you can move the sword with more leverage from below the PoB. I wouldn't recommend that. The handle was long to accommodate a thumb up grip so you could give point from horseback. Power in a cut from a sword like a Patton or a rapier should come from a moulinette, not a second hand.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jun 4, 2019 19:28:17 GMT
I really hadn’t come to a conclusion on how to use it. Well I don’t have one though it’s been on my list off and on. To put it more accurately I had more come to a conclusion how not to use one. I figured it was a bit heavy for a rapier with better cutting ability. I had no idea that I could bring both hands into play. I now see that KoA is giving 5” for a grip length. That it would not be as agile as a spadroon. With the narrow tip not the best cutter. And not best in tight quarters. Yet it continues popping up on my list. Thanks for the updates.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 5, 2019 3:58:02 GMT
I was just playing around. Two handed use is not impossible but I would only do it if I got tired with one hand or need speed when facing a more nimble blade on foot. For cutting with a moulinette the "pommeling" will work. Holding it in hammer grip or only with the tumb on the tumb-rest may be good for a static attack on horseback but not for moving the sword.
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Post by leviathansteak on Jun 5, 2019 10:18:53 GMT
Id like to just chime in and add that the anonimo bolognese has a couple of plays where you assist the right hand with the left when your right hand is wounded or tired. But it is a rare thing it seems
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 8, 2019 1:20:21 GMT
After two days of handling the Patton I think I understand or feel what is said about the use of a "heavy cavalry" sword in: pattonhq.com/sword.htmlIt's indeed not meant for fencing but it's a good sheer attack weapon both in thrust and cut. So it's also a good cutting sword but probably a smallsword or spadroon will poke ya inda eye before you get it to work. The reason for the big bowl guard probably is to make the wielder feel better rather than to protect his hand.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Jun 8, 2019 6:21:30 GMT
After two days of handling the Patton I think I understand or feel what is said about the use of a "heavy cavalry" sword in: pattonhq.com/sword.htmlIt's indeed not meant for fencing but it's a good sheer attack weapon both in thrust and cut. So it's also a good cutting sword but probably a smallsword or spadroon will poke ya inda eye before you get it to work. The reason for the big bowl guard probably is to make the wielder feel better rather than to protect his hand. The big guard is also for guarding the arm of the trooper in a thrust. Imagine yourself as an early 20th century man, and look in the mirror hunched over with the point pointing straight ahead or the arm pointing it to one side. You may find it protects quite nicely the view of your arm.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Jun 8, 2019 6:38:19 GMT
After two days of handling the Patton I think I understand or feel what is said about the use of a "heavy cavalry" sword in: pattonhq.com/sword.htmlIt's indeed not meant for fencing but it's a good sheer attack weapon both in thrust and cut. So it's also a good cutting sword but probably a smallsword or spadroon will poke ya inda eye before you get it to work. The reason for the big bowl guard probably is to make the wielder feel better rather than to protect his hand. The big guard is also for guarding the arm of the trooper in a thrust. Imagine yourself as an early 20th century man, and look in the mirror hunched over with the point pointing straight ahead or the arm pointing it to one side. You may find it protects quite nicely the view of your arm. Even protects the head if you keep that down
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