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Post by rhynuld on May 18, 2019 21:47:47 GMT
Hi, I just epoxied my Valiant Armoury Mercenary sword. The hilt finally shook loose after a decade of training. Some of those have been on and off hard pell training.
If I did it right, should I be able to train with it again? Would you guys think it could at least withstand the inertia of form training?
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pgandy
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Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on May 18, 2019 23:02:37 GMT
I suspect that different brands may having slightly different strengths but I’ve used Acraglas and Locktite 242 with good results. I think you’ll be OK.
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Post by rhynuld on May 19, 2019 5:10:05 GMT
That's a relief.
Gorilla Glue is what I used and it says it can take a weight load of 3500 psi, if I remember right. And I looked up the average baseball players energy when swinging a bat- 2000-4000. But I'm not looking for a homerun- just enough for a decent workout.
Also having been a swordsman for decades, I understand its not all about the force you use for an effective strike and workout, but the body mechanics and form. If I feel I've plateaued and aren't getting enough out of it, it tells me that I need to improve my form more.
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Post by Darth Paunch on May 19, 2019 6:45:37 GMT
I did a complete build with my two-handed viking; it consists of a very nice Armorclass blade from Scotland, Hanwei/Tinker viking fittings - and hemp rope! I tried this as an experiment. under controlled surroundings. Not because i am overtrusty. Nothing was peened, screwed or welded here: the hemp rope works as grip directly glued to the thick, wide tang while fittings are glued to the degreased blade and wedged with thin nails. With light cutting (mats and noodles) everything is still solid as hell, hard and strong swinging around does nothing as well! I used "UHU endfest"; i dont think its available in the US because UHU is a german brand, but you should have plenty of good stuff over there. Of course, the sword isnt meant to stay that way; as i said: its an experiment. Please do so with extreme caution to see what is happening.
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Post by Darth Paunch on May 19, 2019 6:46:51 GMT
I suspect that different brands may having slightly different strengths but I’ve used Acraglas and Locktite 242 with good results. I think you’ll be OK. I hear a lot of good things about Acraglas; but i seems not to be available anywhere in Europe; pity.
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Post by markus313 on May 19, 2019 8:20:04 GMT
Have used many a sword with epoxied grips and or fittings (UHU 300 Endfest), often for what most would consider as rather hard use (pell and bag work) with good results.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on May 19, 2019 9:49:23 GMT
I suspect that different brands may having slightly different strengths but I’ve used Acraglas and Locktite 242 with good results. I think you’ll be OK. I hear a lot of good things about Acraglas; but i seems not to be available anywhere in Europe; pity. My attraction to Acraglas is that I can get it in a kit in which they provide a release coating. I prefer threaded pommels as I can disassemble a sword for maintenance, not as important now since I have a Work Sharp. I can also make adjustments if things change due to humidity. With the release coating I can fill gaps and still be able to disassemble the sword. Of course I can use it without the release coating. I have to import it, but a little goes a long way in the manner I use it.
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Post by Darth Paunch on May 19, 2019 9:55:19 GMT
I hear a lot of good things about Acraglas; but i seems not to be available anywhere in Europe; pity. My attraction to Acraglas is that I can get it in a kit in which they provide a release coating. I prefer threaded pommels as I can disassemble a sword for maintenance, not as important now since I have a Work Sharp. I can also make adjustments if things change due to humidity. With the release coating I can fill gaps and still be able to disassemble the sword. Of course I can use it without the release coating. I have to import it, but a little goes a long way in the manner I use it. OK, thanx; will try to get it somewhere.
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Post by Darth Paunch on May 19, 2019 9:56:35 GMT
Have used many a sword with epoxied grips and or fittings (UHU 300 Endfest), often for what most would consider as rather hard use (pell and bag work) with good results. Ah, well... i should be fine then with light to medium cutting!
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Post by RufusScorpius on May 19, 2019 11:35:58 GMT
This topic comes up from time to time. I use a product called ProBed 2000. It's made for bedding rifle stocks. It's a two part, slow curing epoxy with a glass filler, water proof, oil proof, and heat resistant. I've used it for decades on rifle stocks and sword handles. I have never had any issues whatsoever using this product. It's easy to work and dries hard as nails and is MUCH stronger than the wood. You can get a kit for about $25 and it's enough to do multiple projects. There are other brand names that are designed to do the same thing, just look them up at your favorite gun accessory supplier.
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Post by Darth Paunch on May 19, 2019 11:52:05 GMT
This topic comes up from time to time. I use a product called ProBed 2000. It's made for bedding rifle stocks. It's a two part, slow curing epoxy with a glass filler, water proof, oil proof, and heat resistant. I've used it for decades on rifle stocks and sword handles. I have never had any issues whatsoever using this product. It's easy to work and dries hard as nails and is MUCH stronger than the wood. You can get a kit for about $25 and it's enough to do multiple projects. There are other brand names that are designed to do the same thing, just look them up at your favorite gun accessory supplier. OK, will check that stuff too! Thanx!
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Post by Darth Paunch on May 19, 2019 11:53:35 GMT
Sorry for kinda hijacking your thread for product recommendations...
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Post by Silent on Jun 14, 2019 5:37:10 GMT
I have been using BSI 250 grams epoxy all my life, I buy it from Hobby king when its on flash sale 5 USD?
And TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE (118ML) , 5usd? lasts forever toom and its the best wood glue.
I havent glued any handle but if I did epoxy durability will certainly outlast me.
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Post by usher on Jun 19, 2019 21:53:20 GMT
I read somewhere that if you heat the sword any sword rusted or forged.. the durability of sword gets better! is it so?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Jun 19, 2019 23:55:48 GMT
No. There's a long, involved process that must take place to make a sword blade and correctly quenching and heat treating it. Simply heating a blade up will ruin any temper it already has rather than make it more durable.
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