Windlass New M1840 NCO Sword #5000836
Mar 3, 2019 2:13:52 GMT
Post by pgandy on Mar 3, 2019 2:13:52 GMT
I like spadroons but have been having a hard time finding a replica that suits me. My Universal P1796 is a beautiful thing but falls short in the handling department and I’ve been looking for a replacement. The two models that I’d narrowed down to were Windlass’ M1840 NCO sword and Universal’s M1840 NCO since they’ve gone to 1055 steel. On paper the Windlass appeared to be the better handler and Universal has the better finish. Atlanta Cutlery Co. solved the dilemma when they announced Windlass’ new M1840 NCO Sword #500836 which is no more than their old model #500350 in new clothes, mainly a leather sheath. It did have some nomenclature on the ricasso that I thought a nice addition, more about that later, but it was the leather sheath that sold me. I hate those steel scabbards as they play hell with a sharp edge.
Originally the M1840 was issued with a leather scabbard and carried in a baldric or frog, depending. In 1868 the army decided to make a steel scabbard standard, however it was not the white metal that is seen today but a darkened one not of blue but a finish called Jappanned. The sword was adopted in 1840 and is still in limited use today, mostly for ceremonial work but is still authorized to be carried by non-commissioned officers. It is sometimes awarded to a NCO for an outstanding accomplishment. Family members will give a version of this to a relative in the service on an unofficial basis, as will sometimes a retiring senior NCO receive one from his subordinates. In addition from MRL, ACC, and KoA they can be had from military outfitters often with a choice of leather or steel scabbards. I once saw a Windlass with an asking price of $835 from an outfitter.
I bought this sword with my money while on ACC’s Valentines sales of 15% off. Other than that I paid full price and am not connect with ACC or Windlass in any way other than a regular customer.
In short I like it very much and am completely satisfied other than finding some superficial and/or subjective issues that in no way affect the performance of the sword.
KoA’s #500350 measurements vs my #500836’s:
Blade 315/8” 31½”
Weight 1#12.6 oz 1#13.2 oz
PoB 3 7/16” 4”
CoP 197/8”
Thickness 4.8-3.2mm 4.7-3.2mm
Width 21.6mm 20.8mm
Grip Length 3½” 37/8” (from beginning of grip to bow)
Blade
It has a 31½” with a 2” false edge that I sharpened as well as 22” of the blade to convex razor sharp edge. Typical of Windlass they polished away well defined edges in the fuller, but not as much as I thought they might. The blade is reasonably stiff and suitable for thrusting, definitely not whippy. One thing that does bother me is the markings Windlass chose to put on the ricasso. It really isn’t the markings as such but the manner in which they chose to do so. I was fully expecting to see that info stamped into the steel. Instead they printed it on. It is nicely done but printed? The lettering is raised above the metal and no doubt in due time it will begin to wear off. Come to think of it some solvents or oils may have an adverse effect. When they start to go I’ll remove them all and be done with it. That is the biggest disappointment.
Hilt
It’s all brass of two pieces. There is no wood to change size, nor leather to wear out. The casting is OK but certainly less than perfect. A parting seam could be seen on the dorsal and ventral sides of the grip as well as a bit of flash. There are file marks where someone had removed some flash but they missed a spot. As far as the seam is concerned light will readily pick it up when hit right as well as can be felt if one runs their finger over it. Not only that I could feel it in my palm when holding the sword. All of which were taken care of with some small files. On the right side there are some minute voids due to trapped air when casting. The grip is plenty long for my size 8 hand for either a hammer or handshake grip and is comfortable and controllable despite the diameter being a trifle small for me. While I can use it gloveless a glove makes it more secure in my hand.
The peen is well executed but not keyed. Perhaps the ricasso will prevent twisting if it comes to that.
The generous gap between blade and guard that Windlass is noted for is much reduced in this case but nevertheless I found it less than eye pleasing. I made a washer as it came with none. Uhlan had given easy to follow step by step instructions in one of his earlier posts making it a piece of cake. I used a pouch from a slingshot. At the moment it is slightly oversize as I did not follow the final step of wetting it and allowing it to shrink. The washer appears to set high off centre on the sword. This is because for some reason the blade does not centre in the sheath. When the sword is sheathed it then centres on the sheath looking correct.
Sheath
Can best be described as a typical Windlass jobby, being made of somewhat flexible leather with brass fitting at the ends. The brass is thin and probably will bend easily. In fact there was a small bend in the throat when I received it. Although the blade does not centre in the sheath when seated the throat and guard are flush. There is a frog stud. The sheath/sword fit is good, securely holding the sword.
Handling
The sword excels in this department being fast, agile, and easily controlled. The handling is all that I had hoped for. As I said above the issues are superficial or subjective and in general what I’ve learned to expect from Windlass. What little cutting I’ve done has gone well. But I haven’t done enough cutting yet to know how the edge will hold up but I have high hopes.
The photos below were all made after reworking the sword. For those who worry about such things the photos vary from 79 KB to 149 KB, most being under a 100. Looks like things got skewed around a little. Sorry about that.
The tip from top The hilt from top The nomenclature The peen
Doesn't need an explanation Sheathed Washer sets high on sword But centred with sheath
Originally the M1840 was issued with a leather scabbard and carried in a baldric or frog, depending. In 1868 the army decided to make a steel scabbard standard, however it was not the white metal that is seen today but a darkened one not of blue but a finish called Jappanned. The sword was adopted in 1840 and is still in limited use today, mostly for ceremonial work but is still authorized to be carried by non-commissioned officers. It is sometimes awarded to a NCO for an outstanding accomplishment. Family members will give a version of this to a relative in the service on an unofficial basis, as will sometimes a retiring senior NCO receive one from his subordinates. In addition from MRL, ACC, and KoA they can be had from military outfitters often with a choice of leather or steel scabbards. I once saw a Windlass with an asking price of $835 from an outfitter.
I bought this sword with my money while on ACC’s Valentines sales of 15% off. Other than that I paid full price and am not connect with ACC or Windlass in any way other than a regular customer.
In short I like it very much and am completely satisfied other than finding some superficial and/or subjective issues that in no way affect the performance of the sword.
KoA’s #500350 measurements vs my #500836’s:
Blade 315/8” 31½”
Weight 1#12.6 oz 1#13.2 oz
PoB 3 7/16” 4”
CoP 197/8”
Thickness 4.8-3.2mm 4.7-3.2mm
Width 21.6mm 20.8mm
Grip Length 3½” 37/8” (from beginning of grip to bow)
Blade
It has a 31½” with a 2” false edge that I sharpened as well as 22” of the blade to convex razor sharp edge. Typical of Windlass they polished away well defined edges in the fuller, but not as much as I thought they might. The blade is reasonably stiff and suitable for thrusting, definitely not whippy. One thing that does bother me is the markings Windlass chose to put on the ricasso. It really isn’t the markings as such but the manner in which they chose to do so. I was fully expecting to see that info stamped into the steel. Instead they printed it on. It is nicely done but printed? The lettering is raised above the metal and no doubt in due time it will begin to wear off. Come to think of it some solvents or oils may have an adverse effect. When they start to go I’ll remove them all and be done with it. That is the biggest disappointment.
Hilt
It’s all brass of two pieces. There is no wood to change size, nor leather to wear out. The casting is OK but certainly less than perfect. A parting seam could be seen on the dorsal and ventral sides of the grip as well as a bit of flash. There are file marks where someone had removed some flash but they missed a spot. As far as the seam is concerned light will readily pick it up when hit right as well as can be felt if one runs their finger over it. Not only that I could feel it in my palm when holding the sword. All of which were taken care of with some small files. On the right side there are some minute voids due to trapped air when casting. The grip is plenty long for my size 8 hand for either a hammer or handshake grip and is comfortable and controllable despite the diameter being a trifle small for me. While I can use it gloveless a glove makes it more secure in my hand.
The peen is well executed but not keyed. Perhaps the ricasso will prevent twisting if it comes to that.
The generous gap between blade and guard that Windlass is noted for is much reduced in this case but nevertheless I found it less than eye pleasing. I made a washer as it came with none. Uhlan had given easy to follow step by step instructions in one of his earlier posts making it a piece of cake. I used a pouch from a slingshot. At the moment it is slightly oversize as I did not follow the final step of wetting it and allowing it to shrink. The washer appears to set high off centre on the sword. This is because for some reason the blade does not centre in the sheath. When the sword is sheathed it then centres on the sheath looking correct.
Sheath
Can best be described as a typical Windlass jobby, being made of somewhat flexible leather with brass fitting at the ends. The brass is thin and probably will bend easily. In fact there was a small bend in the throat when I received it. Although the blade does not centre in the sheath when seated the throat and guard are flush. There is a frog stud. The sheath/sword fit is good, securely holding the sword.
Handling
The sword excels in this department being fast, agile, and easily controlled. The handling is all that I had hoped for. As I said above the issues are superficial or subjective and in general what I’ve learned to expect from Windlass. What little cutting I’ve done has gone well. But I haven’t done enough cutting yet to know how the edge will hold up but I have high hopes.
The photos below were all made after reworking the sword. For those who worry about such things the photos vary from 79 KB to 149 KB, most being under a 100. Looks like things got skewed around a little. Sorry about that.
The tip from top The hilt from top The nomenclature The peen
Doesn't need an explanation Sheathed Washer sets high on sword But centred with sheath