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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Nov 25, 2018 7:18:53 GMT
Perhaps worth a look: Legacy Arms/Generation 2 River Witham Viking Sword I like mine and there are 2 good reviews.
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 7:46:04 GMT
As usual when I encounter a post asking for suggestions for a Viking Era Sword, I strongly recommend the Hanwei Cawood Sword. www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2457&name=Hanwei+Cawood+SwordI’m sure someone will point out it isn’t technically a Viking Era sword. Nonetheless, it has a nice Viking vibe to it. To me, this is a fantastic sword, especially for under 300 bucks. The handling is great. Really very good. The proportions are good, and it’s right at two inches in width if that’s important to you. It has decent distal taper, and a lenticular cross sectional geometry. Good harmonics. Very fast. Peened hilt construction with a very durable and tight leather grip wrap. It feels quite secure in the hand. Nice broad fuller with good depth and crisp borders. Comes sharp. I really like Hanwei 5160 steel. Tough, and holds a good edge. Very reliable heat treat. As typical with Hanwei, the finish is not polished, though. More like “brushed.” And, of course, the leather is unnecessarily orange. It’s more subdued in person. If you handle it a lot, the grip will darken considerably. That may be good or bad, depending on your point of view. And the cross guard isn’t for everyone. Anyway, just my opinion. Viking swords are awesome. I’m sure you will enjoy whatever you choose. Very interesting sword. I haven't checked that one out (or seen it yet) The story behind it is also very cool! the crossguard is also interesting for this era. I do see why some would call it viking sword, and some not based on what I read about the original. So I've been doing MORE research and now I got my sights on the ulfbehrt from windlass someone mentioned and the H/T Normal sword... I wouldn't say I've done a complete 180 or 360, but it looks like I'm starting to pinpoint what I want. By tomorrow, I must decide... I'll look at the cawood one too now. Edit: you know I get very mad when I resaerch a sword mentioned to me, decide that's the one my money will go to, only to realize KoA is out of stock on them so that means not only do I not get it right away, I won't get the 10% discount applied! LOL... I was about to pull the trigger on that one, but now I don't know. the 10% would have helped. I found it here... I wonder if they really do have it in stock. www.dowdlesports.com/CAS-Hanwei-Cawood-Sword_p_66480.html?lt_c=1&quickcart=1
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Post by nddave on Nov 25, 2018 8:48:26 GMT
I'd be careful when it comes to a lot of those "other" more obscure google search vendors. Many of them if not most of them never update their inventory and will show items in stock that are either long discontinued or just plain not in stock. Best to shoot them an email and ask if anything.
Also I see still youre stuck on this over 2" thing. Yes Albion and A&A have swords that are above 2" but you also have to realize is that Albion especially tends to use (ironically much like Windlass) one or two Viking blades and pretty much use them for their whole line. Unlike the majority of their medieval line where they take exact period originals and recreate them. Though in some models they do the same and reuse a blade type with a different hilt combination.
Overall dont get stuck on blade width or any of these other trivial differences. Again you liked the Ashdown, saw its blackened twin in action and liked its performance and durabilty, so why not go for what you like and get the Ashdown?
Believe me a difference in a 1/4" of blade width isn't going to be noticeable enough in appearance nor will it have any true effect on the durability or function of the sword itself. So unless you really prefer something wider for your own personal taste (like Gunnar does for example) I'd say go with what is both aesthetically pleasing and well balanced and functional. Overall of the swords discussed so far I'd say the two best handling and looking are the Ashdown and the Ulfbert.
Honestly if it was my choice I'd chose the Ashdown for its weight, balance, grip, hilt and better scabbard. It looks good and seems to handle extremely well, especially for its price point. In the end though its your money and your choice. Get what you feel you'll be happy with and I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
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Post by Gunnar Wolfgard on Nov 25, 2018 13:53:03 GMT
Nothing wrong with the Hanwei Tinker 9th Century but nddave is right, some companies don't update their sites or even go out of business and never close their sites. But if you can get it for $209 go for it, but hurry because now that you showed it here someone else might beat you to it. But what nddave is wrong about is that a 1/4 inch difference is not noticeable, it is I see it every day. Probably the reason I don't sell my Hanwei Godfred is to remind me not to buy another under two inch Viking sword again. Oh as for the Cawood. Just my opinion.
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 16:13:40 GMT
Thanks guys,
You guys have both been very helpful with your insights and both offer an opinion that is different yet the same.
Knowing I already spent almost 700 dollars on an A&A Knightly Sword, I might just get the ulfbehrt. The price is the best out of all the swords, I think I would prefer a "beefy" viking era sword. I guess my only thing (as I realized yesterday) windlass doesn't have an edge, so most sharpening companies offer a service for it and that just creates a secondary bevel. With the H/T Norman, it's already sharpened so I assume it has an appleseed bevel do it and not a second bevel.
I do really like the ashdown and also the leuterit (just based on reviews)... I can't unfortunately get 3 swords (I guess I could have if I skipped out on the A&A Knightly! lol)
I'll make my decision by tonight lol... It's gonna be one of the three...
as far as carwood goes... I liked that it was an exact replica of one of the best preserved end of viking era swords out there. Quality apparently is very good (I like good quality. I don't like cheap looking stuff) and it comes pre-sharpened which I assume will have a nice appleseed geometry. Yeah the cross-guard is not for everyone and also me, but I like the concept of it which is used to lock a blade and try to disengage opponent. to each their own. I might still get that in the near future.
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Post by Gunnar Wolfgard on Nov 25, 2018 16:33:01 GMT
Well I just ordered the Hanwei Tinker 9th century, thanks a lot like I needed another Viking sword right now. This sword is almost impossible to find unless it is selling for over $300 or Back Ordered with no availability date. One was $399. Even Hanwei has it listed as out of stock. If you look at Peirce's book Swords of the Viking Age page 46 you will see the exact same pommel and guard there so they are historically accurate.
Oh I will be regripping it because like a lot of Hanwei swords their plain black grip is ugly. Maybe some more wire inlays on the pommel as well.
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Post by nddave on Nov 25, 2018 17:14:55 GMT
Cool I think you'll be happy with any of the three. Plus the Ulfbert does have the best price and its handling and balance is superb. The only thing that might be an issue is its more of a transitional sword but then again your getting the best of both worlds in a sense as it works as both later Viking and early knightly sword. One last thing about this 2 vs 2 1/2" width thing. I was mulling it over and figured the best way to show its either significance or insignificance would be a pic. Now I dont have anything thats exactly in the 2 1/2" width range but I do have my Windlass Type XIV thats inbetween 2 1/2" and 2 3/4", 2 5/8" to be exact. What I did is take my Windlass Classic Medieval ( which is right at 2" in width) which is technically the same blade used on the Ashdown (only difference being the Classic is 3" longer) and sat it on top of the XIV to show you the difference in width between a 2 3/4" blade and a 2" blade. You can definitely see the edges of the XIV underneath the Classic but if you cut each side in half would it really be that much more significant? You be the judge. Anyway good luck with your decision, I'm sure you'll be happy either way!
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 19:16:26 GMT
Well I just ordered the Hanwei Tinker 9th century, thanks a lot like I needed another Viking sword right now. This sword is almost impossible to find unless it is selling for over $300 or Back Ordered with no availability date. One was $399. Even Hanwei has it listed as out of stock. If you look at Peirce's book Swords of the Viking Age page 46 you will see the exact same pommel and guard there so they are historically accurate. Oh I will be regripping it because like a lot of Hanwei swords their plain black grip is ugly. Maybe some more wire inlays on the pommel as well. I guess that can help with my decision too LOL. Did you get it from the dowdlesports place? I don't know if they keep track of their stock... It looked like everything is in stock there. lol That being said, I found this in the Wallace collection. It looks identical to the Norman and Ulfbehrt... Brazilian nut pommel, long and straight crossguard. Wallace Collection SwordDoes anyone know if the Hanwei has a decent bewel, or is it some post sharpened secondary bevel like a windlass would have after a sharpening service is done?
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 19:16:48 GMT
Cool I think you'll be happy with any of the three. Plus the Ulfbert does have the best price and its handling and balance is superb. The only thing that might be an issue is its more of a transitional sword but then again your getting the best of both worlds in a sense as it works as both later Viking and early knightly sword. One last thing about this 2 vs 2 1/2" width thing. I was mulling it over and figured the best way to show its either significance or insignificance would be a pic. Now I dont have anything thats exactly in the 2 1/2" width range but I do have my Windlass Type XIV thats inbetween 2 1/2" and 2 3/4", 2 5/8" to be exact. What I did is take my Windlass Classic Medieval ( which is right at 2" in width) which is technically the same blade used on the Ashdown (only difference being the Classic is 3" longer) and sat it on top of the XIV to show you the difference in width between a 2 3/4" blade and a 2" blade. You can definitely see the edges of the XIV underneath the Classic but if you cut each side in half would it really be that much more significant? You be the judge. Anyway good luck with your decision, I'm sure you'll be happy either way! Decisions decisions!!!
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Post by csills2313 on Nov 25, 2018 19:27:09 GMT
Does anyone recommend the Hanwei Cawood Viking Sword?
I have been eyeing it for my next purchase maybe.
I t seems to get good reviews.
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Post by nddave on Nov 25, 2018 19:45:02 GMT
Well I just ordered the Hanwei Tinker 9th century, thanks a lot like I needed another Viking sword right now. This sword is almost impossible to find unless it is selling for over $300 or Back Ordered with no availability date. One was $399. Even Hanwei has it listed as out of stock. If you look at Peirce's book Swords of the Viking Age page 46 you will see the exact same pommel and guard there so they are historically accurate. Oh I will be regripping it because like a lot of Hanwei swords their plain black grip is ugly. Maybe some more wire inlays on the pommel as well. I guess that can help with my decision too LOL. Where do you see it in stock? Did I link it with somewhere in stock and already forget? LOL That being said, I found this in the Wallace collection. It looks identical to the Norman and Ulfbehrt... Brazilian nut pommel, long and straight crossguard. Wallace Collection SwordDoes anyone know if the Hanwei has a decent bewel, or is it some post sharpened secondary bevel like a windlass would have after a sharpening service is done? Yea that's one here is another from Records of the Mediaeval Sword that I'm pretty sure Windlass used as inspiration for their Ulfbert. Also another Type X that matches the look of the Ulfbert and H/T Norman, Also I wouldn't put too much faith in the H/T sharpening or Hanwei European line in general. They might not have a secondary bevel but they tend to not come very sharp as you'll read in most reviews and impressions. Honestly of the Swords I own that were sharpened by Windlass I've had no issue and they do a good edge in-house. Again nothing wrong with a secondary bevel, the argument vs one or for one is pretty minimal and again is just a aesthetic preference. Both cut when properly done and both will fail when not properly done.
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Post by Gunnar Wolfgard on Nov 25, 2018 19:52:20 GMT
Probably nothing wrong with the Cawood sword itself but the guard is ugly and not practical. Just my opinion. Some people think it would be good for hooking your attackers blade but it would also be good at hooking unwanted things as well. I wouldn't want to go running through my woods up here with it in my hand. I'd be stopping every so often to go back and pick up my sword. I would say it also wouldn't be as strong as a more contemporary thicker and shorter guard.
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 20:04:04 GMT
Does anyone recommend the Hanwei Cawood Viking Sword? I have been eyeing it for my next purchase maybe. I t seems to get good reviews. Someone did here. I looked it up. I really like it. I'm going to add it to my "to get" list... It's not overly expensive and it seems like it's one of the better built swords Hanwei makes. Not to mention it's an exact copy of the well preserved Carwood. It looks like the fuller is narrower on the original and pommel is ever so slightly different, but still a very close match. And the Hanwei
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 20:12:39 GMT
Probably nothing wrong with the Cawood sword itself but the guard is ugly and not practical. Just my opinion. Some people think it would be good for hooking your attackers blade but it would also be good at hooking unwanted things as well. I wouldn't want to go running through my woods up here with it in my hand. I'd be stopping every so often to go back and pick up my sword. I would say it also wouldn't be as strong as a more contemporary thicker and shorter guard. Yeah, it's to each their own. I like straight crossguards honestly, but I like the idea behind it. It's grown on me. I'll call it tactical (has tactics that go with the thought behind it). I wouldn't be walking around with a sword in the woods here in South Florida. I'd have a firearm and my khukri. To be honest with you, I just plan on putting these on my wall. Let's call them functional wall hangers. Might even get little gold plaques made and depics what kind of sword it is. I've always wanted to do that with WWII rifles. Have one of each country(Germany, Russia, USA, Japan) put them up with a small plaque of what it is. I don't know if wife will approve my hanging rifles in the living room though LOL
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Post by Gunnar Wolfgard on Nov 25, 2018 20:22:50 GMT
I always try to look at swords as a warrior would look at a sword too not just as a collector would look at them. Otherwise I would just buy stainless steel wall hangers and save a lot of money and no oiling.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 25, 2018 21:14:02 GMT
I always try to look at swords as a warrior would look at a sword too not just as a collector would look at them. Otherwise I would just buy stainless steel wall hangers and save a lot of money and no oiling. Aside from the fact that someone who actually depended on swords for their life clearly saw the application of a longer upturned cross, and I don't think running in the woods was a big part of that decision.
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Post by csills2313 on Nov 25, 2018 21:15:42 GMT
I am going to purchase a Cawood later and do a review on it myself. I am interested in seeing if other people who say they like it matches my tastes in swords. It really is a beautiful sword!!!
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 21:18:21 GMT
I always try to look at swords as a warrior would look at a sword too not just as a collector would look at them. Otherwise I would just buy stainless steel wall hangers and save a lot of money and no oiling. Then your upcurve guard might come in handy when someone clashes with you, and you just twist your blade and theirs flies out of their hand. I don't know? LOL
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Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 25, 2018 21:22:16 GMT
I always try to look at swords as a warrior would look at a sword too not just as a collector would look at them. Otherwise I would just buy stainless steel wall hangers and save a lot of money and no oiling. Then your upcurve guard might come in handy when someone clashes with you, and you just twist your blade and theirs flies out of their hand. I don't know? LOL When you think about a blade coming down onto your guard or near your hand, there is a lot you can do with a longer guard. For instance, by just moving the sword so the flat faces the ground you can catch their blade before it hits your hand, and with a longer cross that's turned up you could also use it to bind and keep your opponents blade occupied while you move your sword around theirs, like some techniques in rapier or longsword. It's also a lot more hand protection. Take a string and glue it to one end of the cross and then to the corresponding end of the pommel. The line there is the line to your hand that is covered by the cross from downward blows.
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Post by razorseal on Nov 25, 2018 21:37:54 GMT
Then your upcurve guard might come in handy when someone clashes with you, and you just twist your blade and theirs flies out of their hand. I don't know? LOL When you think about a blade coming down onto your guard or near your hand, there is a lot you can do with a longer guard. For instance, by just moving the sword so the flat faces the ground you can catch their blade before it hits your hand, and with a longer cross that's turned up you could also use it to bind and keep your opponents blade occupied while you move your sword around theirs, like some techniques in rapier or longsword. It's also a lot more hand protection. Take a string and glue it to one end of the cross and then to the corresponding end of the pommel. The line there is the line to your hand that is covered by the cross from downward blows. I'm sure. the crossguard is important. Look over the centuries how it developed, turning into something that completely covered your hand. I think they are just as important as blade shapes. I don't like the look of such an upcurve, but I appreciate the thought and tactical use of it. To each their own though. I don't think my blade will ever have another blade strike it where the crossguard will save my hand. haha
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