|
Post by 28shadow on May 18, 2018 15:33:22 GMT
Anyone know the standard thread size Windlass uses on their swords? I don't think it's metric standard if going by memory, BUT I could be wrong.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on May 18, 2018 16:37:51 GMT
I have Windlasses with different thread sizes. Most common (My Munich and 15 Cent. Longsword, pommels interchangeable) seem to be ca. 7 mm or 0,3". Not sure but the Atlantean seems to have the same size. My Florentine Rapier/Dagger have ca. 6 mm/0,24".
|
|
|
Post by 28shadow on May 18, 2018 16:40:16 GMT
The munich is the one I really wanted to know about. Was considering finding a new pommel for the munich that doesn't weigh as much and still fits the correct look of the original. At 7mm that'll be a bit difficult without going custom.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on May 18, 2018 17:04:56 GMT
The 15th Cent. Longsword pommel works here. I changed the 15th and the Munich pommel but it didn't make it really much better - like I hoped. With a little filing you could mount the 15th crossguard and pommel on the Munich's blade, that would be a nice sidesword. I can't upload pictures in the moment but I think I posted them in a thread named "More Frankenswords"
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 18, 2018 18:14:53 GMT
I used imperial threaded nuts on my Windlass. Iirc it was their old Regimental broadsword.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on May 18, 2018 20:04:09 GMT
I'd guess most Windlass threaded pommels would work with the Munich, except the ones from very unusual light swords like my Florentine. But that doesn't really cure the Munich problem because the guard is also too heavy. I assume the best use for the nice blade is a new guard and pommel set. IIRC the 15th crossguard and pommel on the Munich blade gave a good handling, but the guard slot needs a bit filing to match the Munich tang. Not really much, I only didn't want to destroy my 15th.
|
|
|
Post by Afoo on May 18, 2018 20:04:34 GMT
The munich is the one I really wanted to know about. Was considering finding a new pommel for the munich that doesn't weigh as much and still fits the correct look of the original. At 7mm that'll be a bit difficult without going custom. An M8 nut fits on the tang of my Munich
|
|
|
Post by mrbadexample on May 19, 2018 2:01:35 GMT
1/4 by 20 on all the models I've checked.
|
|
christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
|
Post by christain on May 19, 2018 16:10:24 GMT
Same here...1/4x20.
|
|
|
Post by mrbadexample on May 19, 2018 18:48:14 GMT
Yup. That standard came in handy today. The warehouse sale yielded a bunch of decrepit stuff that I assembled into a pretty sweet frankenrapier. Amazing what can be done with cheap salvaged bits.
|
|
|
Post by 28shadow on May 19, 2018 18:49:50 GMT
Yup. That standard came in handy today. The warehouse sale yielded a bunch of decrepit stuff that I assembled into a pretty sweet frankenrapier. Amazing what can be done with cheap salvaged bits. Wish I could've been there. Make sure to show us in the New Acquisitions thread what you built!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2018 4:57:18 GMT
1/4x20 and 5/16x18 8mm coarse is close enough to use on 5/16x18 but the Windlass stuff is usually sae
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 23, 2018 5:19:57 GMT
The blade on the Patton is a lot wider than I thought it would be. Maybe my gauging is off but it looks much more substantial than the M1907 PS.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2018 15:12:25 GMT
One of this week's relative bargains www.ebay.com/itm/US-WW1-Cavalry-Sword-1918-LF-C-Patton-w-Scabbard/173319541432?I liked the Patton a lot but I had been moving to antique stuff and traded it off. I have only four of the swords on the table shown in the background. Some sold, others traded. Only the ropera has been replaced with a one off Del Tin mongrel. The Patton is a little deceptive in size. I had never sharpened it. A period example just felt different to me and was sharp but that at a show and I have never cut with one. It is quite similar in blade width to the Swedish swords of the mid 1890s. Dwarfs the British and Spanish width wise (imo). Two ATrim, an A&A GBS and a Del Tin 5157 on that table shot round out my earlier buys a dozen or so years ago.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 23, 2018 15:47:56 GMT
Looks like the Patton may be my next American sword acquisition. I found the Spanish and British too small for my liking.
|
|
|
Post by 28shadow on May 23, 2018 16:04:40 GMT
Looks like the Patton may be my next American sword acquisition. I found the Spanish and British too small for my liking. For whatever reason lots of antique stores here in Texas have one or two pattons floating around. Dunno why. BUT I have had the chance to handle several (about 6) and each one felt different. What surprised me was just how big the whole thing was. I would classify the blade as a cut n thrust blade pretty readily. The hilt and guard are massive.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 23, 2018 16:20:29 GMT
The ebay example linked has a couple of pluses and the paint a minus but the original leather washer being intact is really worth the price of admission. The black paint on the scabbard appears to be lacquer and would flake/brush off. The hilt paint I would leave or gently buff a bit. The blade would turn out brilliant. A nice sound example. They aren't really getting any cheaper. It is only the added paint keeping the price where it is.
Of course, the Windlass was a steal when they were $50 or so cheaper. They are probably a safe bet if there is an appeal.
There is a Springfield on the bay, a little more beat up and a little cheaper.
Me? I'm elsewhere but there are a lot of temptations.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 23, 2018 22:03:46 GMT
Yeah, I've noticed the prices creeping up since I started. I've started keeping the stuff I get that I don't see very often. Spanish 1860, (pulled the sale) American Ames 1850, a good 1860, and just pulled the trigger on two more before I leave for the summer.
|
|
|
Post by matte225 on Jun 3, 2018 1:12:54 GMT
I'd guess most Windlass threaded pommels would work with the Munich, except the ones from very unusual light swords like my Florentine. But that doesn't really cure the Munich problem because the guard is also too heavy. I assume the best use for the nice blade is a new guard and pommel set. IIRC the 15th crossguard and pommel on the Munich blade gave a good handling, but the guard slot needs a bit filing to match the Munich tang. Not really much, I only didn't want to destroy my 15th. Sorry for thread resurrection. I am getting a Munich pretty soon here. But was curious about getting a new pommel for it. www.darkwoodarmory.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11_59_13So I was looking here. They have some that are almost half the weight. (I do not think the dagger ones would work). But I am still confused as to what size threading I need to ask for.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 3, 2018 6:44:50 GMT
I'm not familiar with non metric measures and don't have a good caliper but the mentioned 1/4 x 20 will be right. I'd wait until the Munich arrives, screw off the pommel and look before I'd order another pommel. You can try to find a matching nut too.
|
|