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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 9, 2018 23:51:03 GMT
I recently bought a Cold Steel Viking Axe, the big "huscarl" axe they offer.
I found the axe head online for $40 and supplied a 50" ash pole from a hardware store, so I got the whole thing for around $50.
I usually "age" (patina) axes with Chinese hot mustard - it produces a nice pattern. But this Cold Steel axe has as finish on the steel which won't let a patina form. Maybe a chrome finish - or something. I accidentally put a scratch on the metal and the scratch took a patina, so I know there is a coating on the metal.
I do not like the new-looking, silver finish of this axe. What's the best way to remove this finish without damaging the metal?
By the way - this thing handles like a four-pound iron skillet on the end of a stick - it's pretty sluggish. I can't really see using this in battle. I believe you'd get gutted by a good swordsman or spear carrier.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 10, 2018 0:10:09 GMT
These axes come with a clear-coat of some kind on the head. I used a painters scuff pad and fine steel wool to take it off. It's pretty thin, so not really much effort involved. For a really good, ancient-looking patina, you might try a spray-on mixture of vinegar and salt. Works good, and looks great. And yes, it's definitely a strong man's axe.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 10, 2018 0:17:00 GMT
I didn't put any patina on mine, but I may get a second one to play with.
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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 10, 2018 6:20:51 GMT
I didn't put any patina on mine, but I may get a second one to play with. I burned the ash haft to bring out the grain and it worked very, very well. I stained it with "Sedona Red," and it looks like nearly the same color as yours. I mentioned the weight because, while this could be construed as a Viking "great axe," the blade is thicker and heavier than what was historically used by housecarl "Vikings" (okay - Scandinavians, et. al.) and later, by the English. These long axes, which are featured in the bayeux tapestry, are in museums in England today. They exhibit much thinner blades (and yes, this considers corrosion.)
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Post by bluetrain on Apr 10, 2018 10:34:26 GMT
We saw the Bayeux tapestry a few years ago but we didn't get to see any museums with battleaxes, at least that I recall. In the tapestry itself, practically everyone in the battle scenes is equipped the same way, although some have slightly different color armor, whatever kind it is. A few of the men on foot are wielding swords, a few more with axes. Most have spears. There are even a couple of baseball bat-shaped maces. Almost all the shields are identical in shape ("kite" shaped). A fair number of the men on foot have no armor, not even helmets. The lower border shows the battle casualties, including horses and several men with severed heads and limbs. And we think modern warfare is bad. Curiously, it also shows a number of broken swords. Most, but not all of the axes are being used with two hands. One man on foot depicts a tomahawk-size axe.
The equipment in the Bayeux tapestry is worth a thread of its own.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 10, 2018 19:13:45 GMT
Yes, these axes come clear-coated. I had to physically remove it with a wire wheel. It was messy. Acetone didn't work.
It is heavy, but with a little strength and adaptation bit is perfectly usable. I am a small man and I could cut bottles with mine with both descending and rising diagonal cuts on either side. If I still had mine I would probably try to attack the eye with an angle grinder flap disc to hog off some excess weight.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 10, 2018 19:27:01 GMT
Swinging it is no problem, but recovery is a b**ch. Better not be anyone really close behind you! That's why I try to choke up on it after I make a cut.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 10, 2018 21:14:30 GMT
Your top hand on the haft must move fluidly with such a heavy axe, sliding down towards the butt for the cut and immediately choking back up for recovery. Cuttiing from the left also requires switching your grip so the left hand is closer to the head. Crossing wrists like a sword doesn't work well, as I'm sure you've found!
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 10, 2018 21:16:55 GMT
But yes, I definitely wouldn't want to fight a sword or spear with it. Maybe if you were covered by a shield-bearing friend. The axe is a real helmet-splitter and could be the Viking equivalent of a belt-fed machine gun in the squad.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 10, 2018 22:55:02 GMT
Yep...That's exactly the way I do it. And again, yep...always nice to have a buddy with a shield to cover your a** while you do the hackin'!
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 10, 2018 23:03:50 GMT
"...switching your grip so the left hand is closer to the head."---- I could say something here, but I'll refrain.
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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 13, 2018 6:52:19 GMT
I used fine sandpaper and steel wool and got the coating completely off. I gave it a patina using my Chinese mustard technique. I like this method because it gives a distinctive pattern, somewhat like pattern welding, and it effectively rust proofs the steel. I'll post a photo tomorrow. Thanks for all the replies!
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Post by solaris on Jul 11, 2018 14:54:00 GMT
I am late to the party, but try easy off oven cleaner. We used to use that to remove powder coating from motorcycle wheels. Worked very well!!!
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Post by Typhon Eldritch on Jul 11, 2018 18:39:50 GMT
For the patina on my tomahawks I soak them in white vinegar after wrapping them in a paper towel. I've also left them in a bucket of vinegar for 24 hours, flipping every so often. After I take them out I wipe them down to dry and then take a very fine grit sandpaper, say 800, and sand in circular motions. Here's how they turn out
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Jul 11, 2018 23:44:19 GMT
I get such a laugh out of going to Amazon.com and reading the negative reviews of CS tomahawks. Everyone sempriniin' and cryin' because the head was loose upon arrival, or loosened up after the first (failed) throw, or it wasn't lightsaber-sharp, or "THIS ISN'T COLD STEEL! This is from the 'American Tomahawk Company...made in TAIWAN! I got swindled!" ----IDIOTS, all of them. All of my CS hawks and axes are now perfect...after a little elbow grease and sense enough to know how to use simple hand tools. Did I say those people are idiots? I did, didn't I.
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Post by Typhon Eldritch on Jul 12, 2018 3:27:54 GMT
I agree. In fact, I'm glad that the axes are essentially DIY kits, makes it fun!
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Post by WVfishguy on Aug 13, 2018 4:24:00 GMT
Heaven forbid should we have to do any work on something - we now expect everything to come perfect from the factory, but insist on paying the low cost made possible because of mass production. If you want a custom weapon, then you'll have to pay the price.
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Post by Typhon Eldritch on Aug 13, 2018 16:11:29 GMT
Heaven forbid should we have to do any work on something - we now expect everything to come perfect from the factory, but insist on paying the low cost made possible because of mass production. If you want a custom weapon, then you'll have to pay the price. Absolutely. Amazon in particular is bogged down in the review section with people miffed they had to put an edge on something, or the sheath isn't as solidly together as they wanted. Even though they only paid thirty bucks!
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