Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Mar 24, 2018 16:50:35 GMT
I believe the barrier you're talking about is the vapor jacket.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Mar 24, 2018 20:12:56 GMT
I fitted the blank with some walnut scales and put an edge on it. I did some cursory durability tests by banging the flats against my wooden workbench and flexing it about 15-20 degrees. It didn't set or break. Unfortunately I can't walk outside and chop any old tree down where I live now, so I might have to actually buy a 2x4 for that.
I think I hit on the right size, weight, and shape... But here's my plans for the next one:
-preheat quench oil to see improve in hardening
-Better fit and finish, hand sand file marks out before heat treat.
- change handle design for more secure grip, wider under pinkie and a "choil" groove under index finger.
-Paracord over neoprene instead of wood scales
-less obtrusive bolts on D-guard
-Kydex scabbard with quick-detach swivel mount for belt
-At least a 220 grit unblemished blade finish with ferric chloride staining
Suggestions?
Might take a while, since the NJSB is showing my 1084 steel out of stock.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Mar 24, 2018 20:16:26 GMT
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Mar 24, 2018 20:22:54 GMT
Wow, brutyful!
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Mar 25, 2018 20:00:21 GMT
If you like 1084, you'll probably like 80CRV2. It's pretty similar. 1075 and 1080 will also be similar heat treats, but will need to cool a bit faster due to lower manganese contents.
Instead of bolts on your guard, you could have the tang pass through the guard on both the top and the bottom and peen it on or have a threaded nut to tighten it. That would eliminate any need for bolts, and you wouldn't have them protruding.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Mar 25, 2018 20:25:08 GMT
If you like 1084, you'll probably like 80CRV2. It's pretty similar. 1075 and 1080 will also be similar heat treats, but will need to cool a bit faster due to lower manganese contents. Instead of bolts on your guard, you could have the tang pass through the guard on both the top and the bottom and peen it on or have a threaded nut to tighten it. That would eliminate any need for bolts, and you wouldn't have them protruding. Thank you, I hadn't looked in to 80CRV2. I bought my last batch of 1084 before I had my kiln due to how forgiving it was supposed to be on the heat treat; time to look at other options now that I can hold temps. I would do guards the more correct way, but I like the idea of an easy on/off guard. Gonna mess with that for a while.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 6, 2018 2:27:36 GMT
My second draft is also 1084 carbon. 18" blade 1.5" wide .125 thick I tried a new handle style of 1/8" rubber scales with a Turk's head Paracord wrap. Heat-treat discoloration left on.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 6, 2018 2:30:25 GMT
It's considerably lighter and handier than the 2" version, but lacks that chopping momentum. I preheated my quenchant this time.
Paracord over neoprene is my new default for handles.
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howler
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Post by howler on Apr 6, 2018 3:10:56 GMT
It's considerably lighter and handier than the 2" version, but lacks that chopping momentum. I preheated my quenchant this time. Paracord over neoprene is my new default for handles. So your third go will be 1 3/4" width, I assume?
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 6, 2018 3:35:40 GMT
No, I think 2" is a fine width. I had ordered the 2" and 1.5" stock at the same time. If I want a slightly lighter blade I will probably grind down the spine on a 2" to make it a more flared scimitar-y clip point.
In fact, I think I'll scale up to 3" on my next steel order and try a recurve clip point.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 6, 2018 3:36:53 GMT
The turk's head knot with full paracord turned out fatter than I expected. I will try gutted cord next time for a slimmer, tighter fit.
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howler
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Post by howler on Apr 6, 2018 5:04:53 GMT
No, I think 2" is a fine width. I had ordered the 2" and 1.5" stock at the same time. If I want a slightly lighter blade I will probably grind down the spine on a 2" to make it a more flared scimitar-y clip point. In fact, I think I'll scale up to 3" on my next steel order and try a recurve clip point. I notice a lot of the bowie knife designs flair to a wider width near the start of the clip point, as this gives more weight to the sweet spot and gives you room to curve the clip while still aligning the tip with the spine for a more balanced thrust. The scimitar effect, but not crazy like those Arabian and pirate movies, as well as many cartoons portray.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 6, 2018 9:55:23 GMT
I've always wondered how that shape got associated with Arabs and pirates. General public imagines immediately when you say "scimitar". I've never seen a real scimitar anything close to it.
Not fantasy, though. Plenty of chinese swords and Mexican bowies are just like that, more exaggeratwd than one would expect. Turns out it's a great shape for a powerful chop with natural edge alignment and also for hook-thrusts that don't overpenetrate. Not great for dueling swords but totally appropriate for a sword that wants one-hit stopping power and won't likely face armor. Like a tactical sword.
I had the Condor Scimitar briefly. Returned mine because the tip was rounded off. I loved the blade shape. It just needed to have a heavier blade and a longer handle. I will make one.
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howler
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Post by howler on Apr 6, 2018 19:47:28 GMT
I've always wondered how that shape got associated with Arabs and pirates. General public imagines immediately when you say "scimitar". I've never seen a real scimitar anything close to it. Not fantasy, though. Plenty of chinese swords and Mexican bowies are just like that, more exaggeratwd than one would expect. Turns out it's a great shape for a powerful chop with natural edge alignment and also for hook-thrusts that don't overpenetrate. Not great for dueling swords but totally appropriate for a sword that wants one-hit stopping power and won't likely face armor. Like a tactical sword. I had the Condor Scimitar briefly. Returned mine because the tip was rounded off. I loved the blade shape. It just needed to have a heavier blade and a longer handle. I will make one. It is a great shape, and used in many cultures for good reason, and I bet you would see it even more but I suspect it involves more cost and labor, skill to produce, though your the budding bladesmith and I suspect you will find the answers. I do know that my favorite bowies have some form of scimitar flair to them.
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 6, 2018 20:20:01 GMT
For a stock removal machete it will easily double materials cost to make a curved blade like the Condor scimitar instead of a straight Bowie, but that's the price of keeping it interesting.
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howler
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Post by howler on Apr 7, 2018 1:30:04 GMT
For a stock removal machete it will easily double materials cost to make a curved blade like the Condor scimitar instead of a straight Bowie, but that's the price of keeping it interesting. I figured. Of course the big manufacturers can work wonders on the assembly line, be it automated or inexpensive manual labor.
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