christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Feb 24, 2018 22:29:49 GMT
Not exactly 'sword customization', but customization nonetheless. I love Cold Steel hawks and hammers, but the black stuff on the heads is a royal pain to get off. In the past, I have tried soaking them in paint stripper, kerosene, ...you name it....with very little effect. I would still spend several hours at a wire-brush wheel slowly removing the black. I also once got a local sand-blaster company to do one, but it still didn't take it all off, and I was right back at the brush wheel. Anyone know of an easier, quicker way to get this stuff off? I love customizing these things, and can sell them for an actual small profit...but the labor involved is ridiculous. Any ideas?
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Post by Pink Pummy on Feb 24, 2018 22:53:18 GMT
I had no idea that was even possible, their blade coloring is what kept me from buying cold steel products as it doesn't appeal to me at all. As I understand it it's a special coating to help against corrosion, which is a noble cause, if only it didn't slander the visual presentation so much... Anyway, sorry I won't be helpful here, but I'll definitely keep an eye out on this thread, because this could open up a lot more potential purchase options! So you basically polished it off in the past? I'm guessing using something like a sander would be too extreme, but would certainly be a lot faster.
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Post by leviathansteak on Feb 25, 2018 4:47:12 GMT
I tried paint stripper and it worked fairly well for me. Had to finish off with sandpaper though. Maybe you can try sanding tbe surface a little before applying paint stripper; the chemical might penetrate more effectively then
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Post by demonskull on Feb 25, 2018 14:40:03 GMT
I used 200 grit sandpaper and finished up with a little finer sandpaper.
I was doing a conversion of a CS machete to a sax. To remove the rubbberized handle material, soak the grip in a large pot of boiling water for 10 minutes. It will expand slightly and as it only reaches 212F will not affect the temper. Next take a razor knife and trim around the profile edge of the grip. Peel it back slightly and now cut the rubber handle material integral "rivets". The whole handle will come right off.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Feb 25, 2018 14:47:48 GMT
I had no idea that was even possible, their blade coloring is what kept me from buying cold steel products as it doesn't appeal to me at all. As I understand it it's a special coating to help against corrosion, which is a noble cause, if only it didn't slander the visual presentation so much... Anyway, sorry I won't be helpful here, but I'll definitely keep an eye out on this thread, because this could open up a lot more potential purchase options! So you basically polished it off in the past? I'm guessing using something like a sander would be too extreme, but would certainly be a lot faster. Oh...it's very possible. The efforts are worth it. My CS Norse hawk :
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Post by MOK on Feb 25, 2018 16:00:03 GMT
I took the black off my "1917 Hybrid Cutlass" in about half an hour with nothing but a scotchbrite pad...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 16:16:11 GMT
I took the black off my "1917 Hybrid Cutlass" in about half an hour with nothing but a scotchbrite pad... Same here with my Thai Machete... very rough sandpaper first then Scotchbrite... around 45 minutes? The harder part is to get any kind of paint sticking to that darned polypropylene handles!!!
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Feb 25, 2018 16:16:22 GMT
I think that is a different kind of coating than they use on the hawks and hammers. This stuff is more like a baked-on powder coating. It's tough.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 25, 2018 16:36:05 GMT
Christian your hawk is looking good.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Feb 25, 2018 17:03:56 GMT
Hell yeah!
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Feb 25, 2018 17:14:04 GMT
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Post by MOK on Feb 25, 2018 18:25:39 GMT
Pretty! I think that is a different kind of coating than they use on the hawks and hammers. This stuff is more like a baked-on powder coating. It's tough. Interesting. I wonder why - it's not like the blueing they use on their "tactical" swords looks any better or anything, so if this is actually tougher I'm curious why they don't just use this across the board...
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 25, 2018 20:13:49 GMT
I don’t know the answers. I think the coating on my hawk is different than the ones on my CS machetes. The hawk is newer and the machetes a decade or more and can’t remember that far back how they were when new. While not the prettiest I have no intention of removing the coatings and am glad to hear of their durability. The finish on my oldest machete is noticeably thinner now after a decade, possibly more, of use but is still there. Whatever CS uses is the best rust protection I’ve come across. I have never had a rust problem here in the tropics and I wish that I could say the same for my other blades. I can gladly live with those coatings.
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Post by earnynn on Feb 25, 2018 20:27:03 GMT
I used Franmar BLUE BEAR Soy Gel Paint & Urethane Stripper to remove the finish on my Cold Steel Spike Hawk. Worked fast/easy/clean. Afterwards I cold-blued the hawk with no problems.
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Post by demonskull on Feb 25, 2018 21:58:15 GMT
Pretty! I think that is a different kind of coating than they use on the hawks and hammers. This stuff is more like a baked-on powder coating. It's tough. Interesting. I wonder why - it's not like the blueing they use on their "tactical" swords looks any better or anything, so if this is actually tougher I'm curious why they don't just use this across the board... I believe it's because the powder coating adds another layer to the blades making them a little thick for cutting. It doesn't matter too much for a axe or machete but might dissuade some who want a better cutting sword. The powder is a coating the blue bonds to the metal.
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Post by MOK on Feb 26, 2018 3:45:36 GMT
I believe it's because the powder coating adds another layer to the blades making them a little thick for cutting. It doesn't matter too much for a axe or machete but might dissuade some who want a better cutting sword. The powder is a coating the blue bonds to the metal. Eh... why would they worry about fractions of a millimeter when most of their swords are already too thick at the foible by several whole millimeters?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 26, 2018 9:01:19 GMT
I am going to wag this one and say perhaps cost. CS uses various countries to make their products. For example machetes were made in China and now Africa, swords from China, India, etc. In some countries certain finishes exist or is more economical to import than another finishes, depending on the country. Just a wag (wild ass guess).
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Feb 26, 2018 10:47:24 GMT
Hmmm...Never heard of 'Blue Bear'-brand paint stripper. I'll look for it and give it a shot. Thanks!
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