|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 19, 2018 13:50:24 GMT
Hi all. I've been searching all over the place and I'm probably asking google the wrong question so can anyone help me please. A friend runs a metal fabrication company and I was trying to find out if there is a sheet steel that would be suitable for hema sparring/practice blades that doesn't require heat treating? ( Although we can get treatment done if needed) We were looking to make a few backsword type blades for the club to use as a change from the synthetics we are currently using. The temptation of being able to draw something up on solidworks and getting it lasered out it in moments is hard to ignore. I know it's a terribly rookie thing to ask of you guys, but thanks in advance
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Feb 19, 2018 14:37:25 GMT
Even with sparring only you will need a medium carbon steel at least to resist bending.
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 19, 2018 14:48:26 GMT
Thanks for the reply! Would you recommend a steel (as in the number - and I was assuming it would need to be a spring steel)?
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Feb 19, 2018 18:54:20 GMT
Well I use 5160 in most my swords. If you need heat treating contact me. Spring steel is mostly in the heat heat, I can heat treat 1075 to 1095 to be flexible.
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 19, 2018 18:58:33 GMT
Thanks for clarifying! Sadly I'm UK based or I would be having a chat to you. If I get anywhere with this I will pop some pictures up:-)
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 21, 2018 22:17:07 GMT
Quickly ran into the first hurdle....no 5160 available over here, so looks like it will be cs70 (1070 equivalent) cs80 (1080) or en45.
|
|
|
Post by Cosmoline on Feb 21, 2018 23:12:01 GMT
For steel-on-steel sparring you're going to need exceptionally tough stuff. Albion Maestro, A&A or the better feder makers use steel of a type and hardness that allows for repeated blows while resisting splinters and dents. Ordinary sword steel may not be safe. You also need to know how to balance the blade and create the proper cross-section for safety. It's actually more of a challenge than making a sharp, which is why so few smiths do it. I'd say check with Paul Binns if you're in the UK. His stuff is amazing. I have one of his Type X trainers that's lasted years without so much as a dent in it.
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 22, 2018 16:02:59 GMT
Thanks for the replies guys, but the prices I've been given for heat treating has sadly made it unviable :-( Think I may try to pick up a blade blank or two and move to the customizing forum instead:-) For the record it looked like 80crv2 would have been a good candidate in the uk.
Thanks again!
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Feb 22, 2018 16:59:13 GMT
80crv2 would have been a good choice. Just how high is heat treating in the UK.
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 22, 2018 17:40:25 GMT
I called three places and got quoted nearly £100/blade for 3 blades on average. I know it's not a fortune but for some reason I was expecting about half that and it took the shine off the process. The steel was very reasonable - looked like we could have got the blades laser cut out of 5mm sheet for about £10 to £15 each which surprised me (although the cuts would have been at friends work)
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Feb 22, 2018 18:07:26 GMT
Is that per blade, or for all 3. If it is for all 3 the price is good. A lot of work goes into the heat treat to do it right. I am way to cheap at $50.00 per sword blade.
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 22, 2018 18:10:09 GMT
£100 per blade.... At $50 it's nearly worth posting them to you:-)
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Feb 22, 2018 18:15:51 GMT
To me haven't got the symbol, 100.00 is high.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on Feb 23, 2018 2:18:05 GMT
Shipping 3 blades of the same general size and shape into and out if the U.S. may not be as pricy still as going for 100£ per blade once you factor in the exchange rate.
|
|
|
Post by freq on Feb 24, 2018 11:08:08 GMT
couldn't you use thick aluminum like most jsa schools do, it all depends on how hard your "sparing", would think anything about 6mm thick at edge would stand up to significant punishment after all if synthetics can hold up steel or aluminum should be at least as durable with or without a heat treat
|
|
|
Post by spatchcock on Feb 25, 2018 13:04:52 GMT
Could use ally.....but it's just not the same as steel. We've got the drastic plastic basket hilt simulators and they are fine up to a point, but in the end you just want steel:-)
|
|