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Post by Svadilfari on Feb 23, 2018 5:38:29 GMT
if seeing the name on the blade bothers you..rather than pull everything apart..why not add a thick leather or felt washer like was common on most 19th C military swords ? Maybe not historically correct ? But who can say it *wasn't* done back in the Roman era ? :)
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Post by rhema1313 on Feb 23, 2018 6:24:44 GMT
Ok... so in shape it resembles a gladius. However, not even close to a Mainz. at 56.7 mm or 2.23 inches wide at the guard, this blade is a minimum of 19.05mm or 3/4" to narrow. That is a huge difference in width.
The mainz, Fulham and most Pompeii blades had no ricasso "V" between the blade edge and the guard. What I have trouble understanding is the weight of the blade verses the thickness. It is actually thinner than an actual Mainz including the distal taper.
The measurements on this blade are closer to a Fulham Gladius which is a narrower version of the Mainz yet not parallel edges like a Pompeii. Yet it weighs also 1/2 around heavier than a Fulham. That has me scratching my head. And to put the word "Replica" in the description... is misleading.
The scabbard looks nice... but again... not even close to anything "Mainz" or "Roman" of that era.
It isn't a bad looking sword or scabbard... Just not even close to being a "Mainz" in any way, shape or form. Take "Mainz" off of it's name... and we have not argument.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Feb 23, 2018 10:53:54 GMT
True, and I think this is the reason why Gen2/Legacy Arms named their gladius "Maintz"!
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Post by celegon on Feb 23, 2018 17:23:46 GMT
if seeing the name on the blade bothers you..rather than pull everything apart..why not add a thick leather or felt washer like was common on most 19th C military swords ? Maybe not historically correct ? But who can say it *wasn't* done back in the Roman era ? lol yea..its nitpicky of me..i was thinking of some type of habaki,,but leather would look and function better
and pffft who needs historically correct
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2018 17:49:03 GMT
Ok... so in shape it resembles a gladius. However, not even close to a Mainz. at 56.7 mm or 2.23 inches wide at the guard, this blade is a minimum of 19.05mm or 3/4" to narrow. That is a huge difference in width. The mainz, Fulham and most Pompeii blades had no ricasso "V" between the blade edge and the guard. What I have trouble understanding is the weight of the blade verses the thickness. It is actually thinner than an actual Mainz including the distal taper. The measurements on this blade are closer to a Fulham Gladius which is a narrower version of the Mainz yet not parallel edges like a Pompeii. Yet it weighs also 1/2 around heavier than a Fulham. That has me scratching my head. And to put the word "Replica" in the description... is misleading. The scabbard looks nice... but again... not even close to anything "Mainz" or "Roman" of that era. It isn't a bad looking sword or scabbard... Just not even close to being a "Mainz" in any way, shape or form. Take "Mainz" off of it's name... and we have not argument. Thank you for weighing in. It is quite refreshing to see a concise explanation in your brief note. So, so many reproductions are being made to meet the needs of modern "gladiators". Too few seem to be actually interested in what the swords should, and could be, a whole lot more authentic. The argument will be "who cares" due to prices, unknowing curb appeal and basic function. Eric McHugh has just been working on a gladius and I am glad you joined and posted up some of your own work. Timing was bad, or you would have sold one sooner. Keep on fighting the good fight and hope to see more of your work.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 23, 2018 18:34:22 GMT
I see that the Gladius is now back-ordered. Imagine that. Now, we can wait for a review. ;) Here are two reviews: And the only retailer that I can find with the Gladius in stock. At 12:30 hr. (GMT-6:00 hr) 13 Feb 18 there are 8 remaining. www.amazon.com/Condor-Tool-Knife-Gladius-Sacabbard/dp/B01M9FAE45#customerReviews 8 hours later and still 8 swords with three reviews, and the rating going from 3½ stars to 2½.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2018 12:53:47 GMT
Well, it's clearly not a messer, a longsword, a rapier, etc... I understand how it isn't historically accurate, but when you have to decide what it looks like the most, I'd have to agree it's a gladius. I know both Fallen and Rhema can, and have, make better and more historic examples, but I've got to admit, I actually like this version from Condor. I dislike the name-stamp, though, but there's something utilitarian about the look of it I like. I won't be buying it...I might have about $75 worth of like for it, but no where near $175 worth of like! Here is mine... bought a week or so ago. It is worth every semprini hard earned Eurocent - and we pay 219 Euros over here! It looks better and is much tougher than any cheaper production model i owned so far (one Valiant, one Gen2, two Windlass). The edge could be better (bevels) but it cuts - and it will keeell! And the handle is a little bit too thick; maybe i will do some filework here. But hey: NO modern brass, no (obvious) screws and nuts, no cracked wood (Valiant), no wavy blades (Windlass), and no bents during cutting (Gen2). Maybe i dont get it right and maybe i am overreacting, but lately i smell some slight breeze of sword snobism around here on SBG... know what? I just had a nice experience with a quite expensive custom sword from a "well-respected" smith which was utter crap for the price-level; we had the bent/misshaped blade, we had the no-distal-taper thing (which i dont care about too much), we had the fugly blade/crossguard gap, and we had the fake-peen... but hey, lets trample on well-made money-for-value swords... lets bash the china-stuff... the south-american stuff... had we started on the Philipines yet? Well, i dont care much about that whole "hysterical correctness", "too heavy" and "distal diaper" stuff - when a sword is cool, it is cool! Period! When a maker is cool, he is cool! Period!
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Post by bebut on Mar 1, 2018 15:01:15 GMT
I think Condor's thing is building "users", so they take some liberty with historical accuracy. They do carbon steel and walnut and keep things in a decent price range, especially if you can pick their stuff up on Amazon or Ebay.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 1, 2018 15:30:29 GMT
I’ve never been a gladius fan but that one I like. I wish Condor had located a little farther south into my country, maybe they would be easier for me to obtain. I think the fact that this one has no brass is part of the attraction. That hurts my eyes but does offer less rusting issues. Plus I think Bebut hit it on the head. I do like the wood they offer. Holg, from the photo your wood could stand oiling. Not only will this give it a luster but more importantly guard against cracking.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2018 15:39:51 GMT
I’ve never been a gladius fan but that one I like. I wish Condor had located a little farther south into my country, maybe they would be easier for me to obtain. I think the fact that this one has no brass is part of the attraction. That hurts my eyes but does offer less rusting issues. Plus I think Bebut hit it on the head. I do like the wood they offer. Holg, from the photo your wood could stand oiling. Not only will this give it a luster but more importantly guard against cracking. Yes, it feels "dry"... what do you suggest? I have some good wood wax, used for furniture etc, with beewax... that'll do?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2018 15:55:54 GMT
"Ok... so in shape it resembles a gladius" "The scabbard looks nice... but again... not even close to anything "Mainz" or "Roman" of that era" Please, PLEASE do get this right - this is no offense to you; i respect everyone with such levels of craftmansship that i could never achieve... but those two lines represent just everything what i dislike on that usual "hystorical correctness" stuff: - you have been there? - you could make the solid statement that nothing like this sword has ever existed through... what timespan? 3, 4 centuries? Its the same problem as with the educated medieval guys: swords without distal taper didnt exist, because none have been found; two-handed vikings didnt exist, because none have been found (OK, heres the usual viking shield & weapon way), etc. etc. I think a lot of fun is moved out of the matter by handling our hobby so... narrow-minded; even stubborn sometimes. Again, no offense. Its just... frustrating sometimes.
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christain
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Post by christain on Mar 1, 2018 15:59:33 GMT
I like the way you think, Holg.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2018 16:16:26 GMT
I like the way you think, Holg. ;) 8-) "Te salut, Don Corleone!" ;-)
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 1, 2018 16:34:08 GMT
Yes, it feels "dry"... what do you suggest? I have some good wood wax, used for furniture etc, with beewax... that'll do? There are several that work well, boiled linseed oil, tung oil, and teak oil come to mind. Get the pure oil. I say that because I’ve seen companies “improve” it with additives, waxes, etc. Rub it into the wood by hand. It doesn’t take much at a time. A wet finger will do. If the wood is very dry it will soak in very fast. In some cases with teak oil for instance after applying it maybe necessary to go back after ½ hour or so with a rag/paper towel to wipe off the excess. Depending on how dry the wood is more than one application may be needed. I first used linseed oil. It was SOP in the military at the time because of the wood stocks. In this case it is rubbed in vigorously using our palm creating heat that would help polymerize the oil giving a beautiful finish, that along with age. There was no wiping with a rag afterwards. Tung and teak oils are easier to use, but then it is not necessary to use the linseed as such. That was just one technique. These are not available in my country and are difficult to ship in so at times I use unscented mineral oil. This is thinner than the others and soaks into the wood much faster but the former oils will a give a warmer more mellow finish and are preferred for wood. FWTW the wood grain in time is subject to rising. To give a better feel sand. The term is called “de-whiskering”. This is a brief process and goes quickly. To do so I find mineral oil is thinner and easier to work with so this is my preference. No need to rub in just put enough on to lub the sanding. Use 600 wet/dry grit paper. I usually stop there but a follow up with 1000 or 1200 is used by some people. You will find the texture of the wood having a delightful feel. In fact it wouldn’t hurt to try this with your new wood. After writing the above and moving on I got to thinking about the wood Condor uses and had a thought that I’ll pass on for what it’s worth. Condor is located in El Salvador which in turn is located in the tropics-wet country. I have not heard of any complaints with their wood specifically. However, it is not unknown for products with wood made in humid areas and shipped to dryer climates to crack. With this in mind I would advise to oil and do so on a routine basis.
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Post by dchisenh on Mar 1, 2018 16:46:16 GMT
Well, it's clearly not a messer, a longsword, a rapier, etc... I understand how it isn't historically accurate, but when you have to decide what it looks like the most, I'd have to agree it's a gladius. I know both Fallen and Rhema can, and have, make better and more historic examples, but I've got to admit, I actually like this version from Condor. I dislike the name-stamp, though, but there's something utilitarian about the look of it I like. I won't be buying it...I might have about $75 worth of like for it, but no where near $175 worth of like! Here is mine... bought a week or so ago. It is worth every (censored) hard earned Eurocent - and we pay 219 Euros over here! It looks better and is much tougher than any cheaper production model i owned so far (one Valiant, one Gen2, two Windlass). The edge could be better (bevels) but it cuts - and it will keeell! And the handle is a little bit too thick; maybe i will do some filework here. But hey: NO modern brass, no (obvious) screws and nuts, no cracked wood (Valiant), no wavy blades (Windlass), and no bents during cutting (Gen2). Maybe i dont get it right and maybe i am overreacting, but lately i smell some slight breeze of sword snobism around here on SBG... know what? I just had a nice experience with a quite expensive custom sword from a "well-respected" smith which was utter crap for the price-level; we had the bent/misshaped blade, we had the no-distal-taper thing (which i dont care about too much), we had the fugly blade/crossguard gap, and we had the fake-peen... but hey, lets trample on well-made money-for-value swords... lets bash the china-stuff... the south-american stuff... had we started on the Philipines yet? Well, i dont care much about that whole "hysterical correctness", "too heavy" and "distal diaper" stuff - when a sword is cool, it is cool! Period! When a maker is cool, he is cool! Period! Holg, I'm in no way being snobbish, I'm actually being cheeeeep! . I actually like the gladius a lot, I just have very, very little money for hobbies so unless it's something that seriously knocks my socks off OR is such a deal I can't pass it up, I just can't justify the purchase.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2018 18:10:31 GMT
Here is mine... bought a week or so ago. It is worth every (censored) hard earned Eurocent - and we pay 219 Euros over here! It looks better and is much tougher than any cheaper production model i owned so far (one Valiant, one Gen2, two Windlass). The edge could be better (bevels) but it cuts - and it will keeell! And the handle is a little bit too thick; maybe i will do some filework here. But hey: NO modern brass, no (obvious) screws and nuts, no cracked wood (Valiant), no wavy blades (Windlass), and no bents during cutting (Gen2). Maybe i dont get it right and maybe i am overreacting, but lately i smell some slight breeze of sword snobism around here on SBG... know what? I just had a nice experience with a quite expensive custom sword from a "well-respected" smith which was utter crap for the price-level; we had the bent/misshaped blade, we had the no-distal-taper thing (which i dont care about too much), we had the fugly blade/crossguard gap, and we had the fake-peen... but hey, lets trample on well-made money-for-value swords... lets bash the china-stuff... the south-american stuff... had we started on the Philipines yet? Well, i dont care much about that whole "hysterical correctness", "too heavy" and "distal diaper" stuff - when a sword is cool, it is cool! Period! When a maker is cool, he is cool! Period! Holg, I'm in no way being snobbish, I'm actually being cheeeeep! . I actually like the gladius a lot, I just have very, very little money for hobbies so unless it's something that seriously knocks my socks off OR is such a deal I can't pass it up, I just can't justify the purchase. Ah, so desu ka! ;-)
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 2, 2018 22:58:36 GMT
I’ve never been a gladius fan but that one I like. I wish Condor had located a little farther south into my country, maybe they would be easier for me to obtain. I think the fact that this one has no brass is part of the attraction. That hurts my eyes but does offer less rusting issues. Plus I think Bebut hit it on the head. I do like the wood they offer. Holg, from the photo your wood could stand oiling. Not only will this give it a luster but more importantly guard against cracking. Yes, it feels "dry"... what do you suggest? I have some good wood wax, used for furniture etc, with beewax... that'll do? Holg, got thinking about you this afternoon and the wood on your gladius. To make a short story long, a neighbour brought me two of her kitchen knives to repair. Her 18 year old daughter, who evidently has a mind of a child, had broken the tip off the pointed one and had ruined the cutting edge on both by trying to sharpen with a file. I have no idea what her daughter was on. It takes a real stupid person to error and then go back and do exactly the same thing hoping for a different result. She broke about 3/8” if the point off by repeatedly jabbing the point at whatever it was. As for the cutting edge, she filed across, I’ll say that again, across the edge. Although she also attempted to file the side of the blades also. That is one kid that shouldn’t be allowed near a knife. I re-profiled the blade restoring the point, then gave it the sandpaper/compressible pad treatment to remove the file marks on the sides. And then I sharpened both to the extent that I was able to shave with them. Now to the heart of the story. I was setting there admiring my work, and it was work, when my eyes fell on the scales. The more I looked at them the more dissatisfied I became. I don’t know what kind of wood they used but it’s dense with an attractive grain. I have the same set of knives. The wood on hers appeared somewhat lifeless and lighter in colour, and while the grain had raisin it was not objectionable. It was as though she was leaving the knives in water for an extended length of time. I applied some mineral oil and sanded with 600 grit. The oil brought the life back and they darkened to the proper colour immediately but the 600 grit had no noticeable effect. I then broke out the 1000 grit which improved things and then ended with 1500 grit. Normally I don’t go that high. The 1500 made the wood a delight to touch. If you haven’t guessed it by now, I love wood. I wish that I had made before and aft pictures of everything. Hind sight is great.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2018 7:50:20 GMT
i am a "woodpecker" too!!! Wonderful stuff...
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Post by warriorpoet on Apr 27, 2019 16:18:46 GMT
I saw a pic of condors ironside Viking sword tang with a big ol hole in it on Amazon...
Does this one suffer the same?
I dig it, looks like the kokiri sword from Zelda!
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