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Post by Afoo on Dec 17, 2017 0:06:27 GMT
And thats the way the cookie cromwells
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Dec 17, 2017 0:12:11 GMT
I just ordered the Hanwei because of my experience with Windlass swords concerning the handling (f.e. the Munich). Usually - and Dave's stats show this here again - no distal taper (cheaper) and a heavy pommel as a counterweight. So they get a POB close to the guard, but they also make a heavy dumbbell this way. Feels agile for the first few seconds, then you become tired and slow soon.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2017 12:07:27 GMT
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 24, 2018 13:47:30 GMT
Got my Cromwell this monday.
It was antiqued, visible on the blade and the rayskin grip was browned. The look of the blade disappointed me, it looked like they used some black spray but the surface was very rough too. I sanded it a bit, looks much better now and still a bit antiqued.
I tried to disassemble it, you can screw off the three screws holding the three guard-ends and the central nut under the pommel. The pommel gets off and is not keyed, but the handle is epoxied to the tang unfortunately, so I stopped here. The tang looked ok, the smaller threaded end starts below the handle in the pommel. I'll try to get the handle off later and make pictures then.
One good thing, after putting it together again it lost a minimal slackness in the handle it had before. So you can fix it, but you will scratch the black paint at the screws/nut.
The handle is a bit thin for my taste and the rayskin is rough on bare hands, it's clearly made for beeing held with a glove.
The false edge at the tip is not sharpened, I'll try to apply a small secondary bevel there to keep the antiqued look of the blade.
Besides this it's like Dave wrote.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Feb 27, 2018 17:49:42 GMT
Dave KellyAny idea what kind or how much epoxy cold steel filled the gap with? I'm thinking about buying to remount the blade for an assembly and I'm wondering if that's gonna be a pain to get off.
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Post by bfoo2 on Feb 27, 2018 18:00:48 GMT
Dave Kelly Any idea what kind or how much epoxy cold steel filled the gap with? I'm thinking about buying to remount the blade for an assembly and I'm wondering if that's gonna be a pain to get off. I got a CS mort (albeit second hand from this forum). There was NO epoxy- I undid the pommel nut and the whole thing came apart in an instant. You shouldn't have any problems I know Cold Steel put rivets through the grips of their sabres which have the appropriate backstrap (1796, Austrian 1904, Thompson) but I don't think I've seen one with epoxy. I think Dave was suggesting that users fill their with epoxy if they intend to cut. They don't come from the factory like that. The tang channel is overly large (8mm wide for a 4mm blade) and epoxy should help a) prevent moisture from working into the grip and corroding the tang and b) stop the whole thing from loosening up. What project are you thinking of? I've got some mix-and-match projects going on here and perhaps we could work out a beneficial parts exchange?
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Post by elbrittania39 on Feb 27, 2018 18:06:15 GMT
Dave Kelly Any idea what kind or how much epoxy cold steel filled the gap with? I'm thinking about buying to remount the blade for an assembly and I'm wondering if that's gonna be a pain to get off. I got a CS mort (albeit second hand from this forum). There was NO epoxy- I undid the pommel nut and the whole thing came apart in an instant. You shouldn't have any problems I know Cold Steel put rivets through the grips of their sabres which have the appropriate backstrap (1796, Austrian 1904, Thompson) but I don't think I've seen one with epoxy. I think Dave was suggesting that users fill their with epoxy if they intend to cut. They don't come from the factory like that. The tang channel is overly large (8mm wide for a 4mm blade) and epoxy should help a) prevent moisture from working into the grip and corroding the tang and b) stop the whole thing from loosening up. What project are you thinking of? I've got some mix-and-match projects going on here and perhaps we could work out a beneficial parts exchange? Thanks for the info! Basically, I want a backsword blade and matching scabbard so I can practice backsword as well as saber using my Lguard. I don't need another hilt though so I'd be happy to sell you the CS basket hilt or buy a backsword blade off you if thats what you had in mind.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Feb 28, 2019 0:26:52 GMT
I got to handle the cold steel mort at SoCal Swordfight, and the thing really feels like it wants to cut with a thumb up grip as opposed to hammer grip with all that room in the hilt.
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Post by markus313 on Mar 3, 2019 10:03:36 GMT
With all that weight and a foible that massive, I`d say the CS EB is best used with a hammer or handshake grip. In literature, there are many warnings to be found on using the thumb up grip on heavier swords, especially on the parry.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2019 11:06:22 GMT
Although I did not cut much with mine, I seemed to favor a hammer grip with both the CS and Hanwei. Fairly true for many hewing type actions, transition with a handshake or thumb up for point work but from a high guard parry, a hammer grip can also thrust. Think the lateral or closer to overhead cavalry charge, If we go back to Marozzo and Silver stuff, a hammer grip is the basis, no? Even 1.33, so later baskets are basically just a single hand sword with more hand protection. Baskets and thumb rings kind of emphasis a hammer but I find myself reverting to a handshake on small more open hilts, or cupping pommels in a hammer.
When you get to later cavalry swords, there is a good amount more room to apply a longer or more open grip.
jmo
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Post by markus313 on Mar 3, 2019 14:05:15 GMT
If we go back to Marozzo and Silver stuff, a hammer grip is the basis, no? Not that familiar with Marozzo, for Silver, it is (said from deductive reasoning: strong preference for power cutting and forming a true cross, the sword pictured has a rather short hilt etc.). He also describes a somewhat handshake-ish grip to be used for the (untypical for his preferred manner) style of fighting from stocatta (sword-arm-side, point-forward guard.)
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Post by markus313 on Mar 16, 2019 15:04:55 GMT
Here are the stats for my second CS SEB (much lighter, especially at the foible)... Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2019 17:48:31 GMT
Wow, that shows a wide variation. Particularly the blade width and distal.
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Post by nordmann on Mar 16, 2019 18:22:56 GMT
I have a history question. Would these swords still be used in the early 1700s. Would these be the swords used by English/British cavalry during the War of Spanish succession? If not what would they use. Sorry if this is too of topic.
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Post by markus313 on Mar 17, 2019 7:44:08 GMT
Wow, that shows a wide variation. Particularly the blade width and distal. Found that quite surprising, too. The second one feels good, real good. Have ordered a third one and will post stats for that also.
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Post by markus313 on Mar 17, 2019 7:47:02 GMT
I have a history question. Would these swords still be used in the early 1700s. Would these be the swords used by English/British cavalry during the War of Spanish succession? If not what would they use. Sorry if this is too of topic. I don’t feel competent at all to answer that, but would be quite surprised if not a few Mortuary hilts would’ve found their way onto the battlefields of that period, at least aside from regulation? I'd like to know also...
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Post by Dave Kelly on Mar 17, 2019 11:37:53 GMT
I have a history question. Would these swords still be used in the early 1700s. Would these be the swords used by English/British cavalry during the War of Spanish succession? If not what would they use. Sorry if this is too of topic. I don’t feel competent at all to answer that, but would be quite surprised if not a few Mortuary hilts would’ve found their way onto the battlefields of that period, at least aside from regulation? I'd like to know also... The Age of Malborough is three generations removed form the English Civil War. Weaponry is always a statement of the period art and culture. The train moves on. Basket hilts have evolved. The German/Walloon (Haudegen) is still a popular form of half basket. Full basket swords are less elaborate and blades are optional. The courtly smallsword is morphing into something heftier and longer (epee forte). The Hungarian-Polish sabers have infiltrated west europe starting 1660. Shiavonas and Morts are pretty much out by 1700.
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Post by nordmann on Mar 17, 2019 11:56:45 GMT
I don’t feel competent at all to answer that, but would be quite surprised if not a few Mortuary hilts would’ve found their way onto the battlefields of that period, at least aside from regulation? I'd like to know also... The Age of Malborough is three generations removed form the English Civil War. Weaponry is always a statement of the period art and culture. The train moves on. Basket hilts have evolved. The German/Walloon (Haudegen) is still a popular form of half basket. Full basket swords are less elaborate and blades are optional. The courtly smallsword is morphing into something heftier and longer (epee forte). The Hungarian-Polish sabers have infiltrated west europe starting 1660. Shiavonas and Morts are pretty much out by 1700. Thanks for the answer. I asked because I have serious trouble finding out what sword the English/British horse and dragoons used. My goooglefu gets me nothing. But I know the swedish and Danes had standard models by this time. I would assume the English had too.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Mar 17, 2019 17:05:23 GMT
With all that weight and a foible that massive, I`d say the CS EB is best used with a hammer or handshake grip. In literature, there are many warnings to be found on using the thumb up grip on heavier swords, especially on the parry. I wonder if the one I handled was a particularly light example then, as it didn't seem to be that heavy in the blade. It was actually sort of disappointing how non meaty the blade was. The cs Scottish sword on the other hand was massive.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Mar 17, 2019 18:43:27 GMT
With all that weight and a foible that massive, I`d say the CS EB is best used with a hammer or handshake grip. In literature, there are many warnings to be found on using the thumb up grip on heavier swords, especially on the parry. I wonder if the one I handled was a particularly light example then, as it didn't seem to be that heavy in the blade. It was actually sort of disappointing how non meaty the blade was. The cs Scottish sword on the other hand was massive. I had the same experience. My cs backsword blade was so dainty I didn't feel comfortable test cutting with it and I wound up returning it. It was an odd sword to assess in general. The hilt was huge. I could straight up two hand it even with the basket. It still felt pretty good to drill with though, really nimble and almost spadroon like.
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