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Post by Jordan Williams on Oct 12, 2017 18:24:40 GMT
Who did you buy From? I would just used high grit sandpaper and progress to lower grits to remove the rust. I'd also disassemble it to clean the tang and hilt parts.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2017 13:47:08 GMT
Who did you buy From? I would just used high grit sandpaper and progress to lower grits to remove the rust. I'd also disassemble it to clean the tang and hilt parts. I second that. It's really easier than all other methods. If any pitting is present, you will have to use a little more advanced skill. If you can get Metal Glo, try it. It worked fine for me, and did get rid of most if the rust. Sand it down some, apply and polish with any slightly abrasive metal polish and give a final sanding down.
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Post by LastGodslayer on Oct 13, 2017 14:59:43 GMT
Try balled up aluminum foil. With a bit of water it works wonders, but you gotta clean the blade and oil it quickly or it'll just rust back again.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 13, 2017 18:01:49 GMT
Try WD-40 using #000 steel wool. #0000 will work but will take more work. Do not use anything courser than #000. If you want to immerse it in a solution but have no room perhaps wrapping rags, or good quality paper towels, around it, can be tied in place or use rubber bands. Then wet. If you use "high grit sandpaper" as suggested above do so with oil, WD-40 will work fine. I would exhaust other sources before going the sandpaper route. If doing the sandpaper I'd start with a supper fine grade and progress to the more course papers if the fine papers don't work. Remember, it's infinitely easier to take more metal off than to put it back.
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Post by brotherbanzai on Oct 14, 2017 13:36:45 GMT
If the "Albion" part is those particular hilt components combined with that shape blade, you might be able to re-use those hilt parts and just get a similar bare blade from another vendor and adjust to fit.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 14, 2017 15:08:55 GMT
Try WD-40 using #000 steel wool. #0000 will work but will take more work. Do not use anything courser than #000. If you want to immerse it in a solution but have no room perhaps wrapping rags, or good quality paper towels, around it, can be tied in place or use rubber bands. Then wet. If you use "high grit sandpaper" as suggested above do so with oil, WD-40 will work fine. I would exhaust other sources before going the sandpaper route. If doing the sandpaper I'd start with a supper fine grade and progress to the more course papers if the fine papers don't work. Remember, it's infinitely easier to take more metal off than to put it back. One thing I’d like to add regarding the sandpaper if you follow my last idea about starting with fine paper progressing to courser papers until you find the one that works: you can always if that paper leaves scratches you can then go the other direction progressing to finer papers until you achieve the polish desired. Don’t forget the oil.
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Post by bebut on Oct 15, 2017 4:38:55 GMT
I would contact the seller about the rust to see what they say. Maybe they will want to make it good, maybe they will have suggestions on cleaning it. I know you don't want to send it back, but if it also has a problem with soft steel it may be unsafe to use so I would question them on that, too.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Oct 16, 2017 16:50:14 GMT
Thank you. I will see if I can try that. In this one case I'm keeping it and not sending it back. It has meaning and it's mine now. It's still Albion to me and should be made in the UK, ideally round here. That was in this case my real purpose. It will still suit my real intent. It's representative, even if it isn't suitable for physical use. I did order some steel wool for it, it did arrive but heck knows where it's gone. Return it. You clearly got scammed, also where did you buy it from? I want to have a custom made so I want to know who to avoid if needs be.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Oct 17, 2017 6:30:46 GMT
Thanks for these. I normally would take action of course, but this one time I'm not because I want the design of the sword. Something tells me the guy is actually not too well in the head, his behaviour with this doesn't add up. I don't know what he's on but he seems not right upstairs. I'd never get sense or a replacement, it took me a year of having to constantly chase it up to even get this. Seller is mentioned above. Somehow I missed it, good to know. Was it expensive? I just can't wrap my head around swordsmith intentionally screwing up this bad. It's a niche market as it is.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Oct 17, 2017 15:40:21 GMT
You do you, also that stinks . That's just under 600 America dollars.
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stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Oct 17, 2017 16:05:29 GMT
U should at least send it back so that forge fixes it, I would expect that much for how much u paid
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Post by RickDastardly on Oct 17, 2017 19:55:28 GMT
I might be off target, but I've often seen knife makers (that's more my background) end up doing similar things.
It's as if either they simply can't handle success and 'burn out' emotionally/physically while trying to keep up with too many orders, or become increasingly greedy and just churn out goods without the quality they might once have had.
It's a common one in knife circles and the reason that the advice is never, ever pay up-front for a custom knife. I've no idea if you did that, it doesn't matter, I'm just saying that's the advice on knife forums because there have been so many similar issues with knife makers.
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Post by bebut on Oct 19, 2017 17:23:00 GMT
I don't know where this post is going, but I suggest for general use that anytime one gets bad merchandise the first thing to do is contact the seller with a concise unemotional explanation of the problem. This should be done immediately, or perhaps after a 1 day cooling off period.Put the ball in his court to see what he will do with it. A good seller will fix it, even if to just protect his reputation. Each bad account online may cost the seller many sales, so it behooves them to make it good. On Ebay I hesitate to buy from anyone who has less than a 99.8 % rating, for example, and most sellers who plan to be around for a long time are very conscious of their reputations.
I have never bought a custom sword, but I imagine a quality seller would take a deposit and bill at completion. It's not like he has to grow the thing, it isn't being touched until he finishes earlier work.
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