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Post by ninjamelody on Jun 11, 2017 6:41:29 GMT
Hello SBG members,
A few questions, as my experience in blacksmithing I made 2 knives, one from stock removal and one from forging, all used charcoal as heat source.
1. I'm planning for the first sword I'm going to make, do you think these options are good for a beginner? (that the sword would work and I learn something useful)
Material: 1075 steel because it's quite readily available in the size and simple carbon steel for heat treating.
Stock size: 1540 mm x 52 mm x 6.35 mm (60" x 2" x 1/4") The rest will be knives
Sword type/length: Hand and a half sword 108 cm overall (42.5")
Cross section: I'm still hesitating between diamond and fullered blade (torn between Oakeshott Type XVa and Oakeshott Type XVIa)
2. Materials for crossguard and pommel, should I use brass or mild steel? And where I can typically get them. Looking for something to study about the fittings too.
3. When forging knives from thicker steel, I've had problems of making it too thin, too long than desired, any way to avoid this?
Thank you very much
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jun 11, 2017 19:56:05 GMT
I suggest a XVa. Fullers are tricky without proper epuipment. XVa are of (fairly) simple cross section and often (not always!) without anything in the way of complex distal taper. A simple linear or convex distal taper (upper blade half) from 6mm at the base over 5mm at the middle to 3-3.5mm at the tip should give a decent blade. You can start thicker at the base but for the first sword, keep it simple.
I strongly suggest mild steel for the fittings. As for source... local scrap yard, machine shop, etc or you just order it online as with the blade steel.
Carefully read through the myArmoury feature articles on Edward Oakeshott, the spotlight article on XV swords and generally everything else on there you find time for. Also, read reviews on the Albion Mercenary, Agincourt, etc. Best would be for you to get your hands on an Albion XVa.
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Post by freq on Jun 11, 2017 22:25:06 GMT
Cross section: I'm still hesitating between diamond and fullered blade (torn between Oakeshott Type XVa and Oakeshott Type XVIa) 3. When forging knives from thicker steel, I've had problems of making it too thin, too long than desired, any way to avoid this? skip the fuller to start with takes lots of practice to do one this shouldnt be a problem if your doing stock removal as its not going to grind longer only shorter and thinner big question what tools do you have re grinders etc?
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Scott
Member
Posts: 1,674
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Post by Scott on Jun 12, 2017 1:38:32 GMT
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Post by ninjamelody on Jun 12, 2017 5:16:01 GMT
Thanks to Lukas MG (chenessfan) for suggesting designs, materials, and useful articles. I will have a look at your blades too!
Thanks to freq for suggestions. I have a bench grinder, a 4" angle grinder. I saw some of your interesting projects on the other tread too.
Thanks to Scott for that article, I haven't finished it, just read a few paragraphs, will spend more time there.
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Post by freq on Jun 12, 2017 6:08:22 GMT
no problem. i do majority of my fabrication with a four inch grinder, best suggestion i have is take your time,i have found bench grinders are near useless in making long blades, much better getting some hand files they work faster and fit in places your grinders wont
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Post by ninjamelody on Jun 17, 2017 20:26:49 GMT
Hello guys, after reading some detailed guides I have a few questions regarding to heat treating and assembly.
1. Should I heat treat the whole blade or do differential hardening (only harden the edge)?
2. Heat treat data for steel, which website are good resources for information such as critical temperature, hardness tempering over certain temperatures, proper coolant, and timing?
3. Heat treating equipment, should a charcoal forge be enough? We have oil barrels that can be dissected. And also what are essential tools to measure if it reaches critical temperature? What I have in mind are magnet and some iron bars (only the magnetized iron bar will contact the hot steel) and some digital thermometer with k-type thermocouples would be okay?
4. Some terminology that I couldn't find on myarmoury and other sites, please recommend me some sites to read: such words are the "arm" of the guard, and the differences between "guard" vs "quillons".
5. Fitting the guard, as I read that the shoulder of the blades stay within the guard, but how deep should it be? And what determines the angle of the shoulder?
6. Pommel designs, should I pick T3 or R type? I like the appearance and seems simpler than most.
7. Finishing, what are available options or where can I read more about them? Is forced patina (either by vinegar or mustard) advised?
Thank you.
PS. I'll be able start doing anything around the beginning of July.
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