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Post by Jordan Williams on Mar 4, 2018 0:48:17 GMT
Good cuts. And with such a point oriented narrow blade. Kudos. Nice work on the frog too. Maybe try to wear it more to the back? When I have a first look on a sabre, I always find the same pattern. Wear on the hilt where the left hand rested when walking. You need to do that to control that long scabbard or else.... Cheers. I can't find it anymore, but a while back I saw a clip of French officers exiting a trench during WW1. One of them had his Mle 1882 and while he was walking out of the trench it jangled everywhere. Fustrating I can't find it anymore.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 4, 2018 1:26:55 GMT
Just a small update. I’ve been practicing point work using the P1796 and Pilsen Rapier. I draw a target on paper by tracing a coin and then hang the paper. The P1796 is the most accurate. Today I tried something new. I had a 500 ml Listerine and Plax plastic bottles. The plastic in these is tougher than the run in mill bottle. I filled with water and made point targets out of them. The Pilsen would penetrate the nearer side only and for the first time I notice a flex in the blade on contact. It was slight but nevertheless there. As always the P1796 ploughed through, completely. It also destroys the target faster than the rapier with its larger holes. The Brits should have had such a stiff blade on their model.
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Post by tsmspace on Jun 7, 2020 21:48:22 GMT
I'm shopping this sword now (universal swords from koa).
I don't know when I plan to buy it exactly, but unless I find basically the same sword but somehow a little bit preferable, I will probably go for this one.
I wanted to make comments about cutting. Please understand I don't know anything really, but I've had some failures and successes.
-with a triangle sword (medieval), I did NOT have this experience. I just cut better standing still. Also, with a saber-type shape the same.
-however with a straight sword (I have two that are like short jian), I could NOT cut standing still (blade quality is not very good, sharpness is better now on one of them), but I COULD cut if I did little "rapier dances" towards or away from the target. My interest in this sergeants sword is based in large part to this experience of cutting while in motion. basically, I'm assuming that the sword is very well engineered if the user is properly trained. It has the reputation of being worse than everything just enough to be useless if you watch peoples videos (like scholagladiatoria) ,,, but I have a tendency to imagine the engineers were actually thinking pretty hard when they made the sword, and if you know what they were planning to do with it, and how to do those things, then it's the best tool for the job.
so anyway, I had never used a triangle sword (medieval taper), but it turns out it must be important that the blade is not parallel to the sword, but is actually at an angle just like the striking portion of the saber. I am certainly interested in using the triangle swords more, but am actually more interested in perhaps the sergeants sword or maybe later on a rapier. (but taking up fencing is probably not on the immediate horizon, so maybe I save the rapier for later in life, they are more expensive).
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Jun 8, 2020 12:57:32 GMT
I'm shopping this sword now (universal swords from koa). I don't know when I plan to buy it exactly, but unless I find basically the same sword but somehow a little bit preferable, I will probably go for this one. I wanted to make comments about cutting. Please understand I don't know anything really, but I've had some failures and successes. -with a triangle sword (medieval), I did NOT have this experience. I just cut better standing still. Also, with a saber-type shape the same. -however with a straight sword (I have two that are like short jian), I could NOT cut standing still (blade quality is not very good, sharpness is better now on one of them), but I COULD cut if I did little "rapier dances" towards or away from the target. My interest in this sergeants sword is based in large part to this experience of cutting while in motion. basically, I'm assuming that the sword is very well engineered if the user is properly trained. It has the reputation of being worse than everything just enough to be useless if you watch peoples videos (like scholagladiatoria) ,,, but I have a tendency to imagine the engineers were actually thinking pretty hard when they made the sword, and if you know what they were planning to do with it, and how to do those things, then it's the best tool for the job. so anyway, I had never used a triangle sword (medieval taper), but it turns out it must be important that the blade is not parallel to the sword, but is actually at an angle just like the striking portion of the saber. I am certainly interested in using the triangle swords more, but am actually more interested in perhaps the sergeants sword or maybe later on a rapier. (but taking up fencing is probably not on the immediate horizon, so maybe I save the rapier for later in life, they are more expensive). I’d recommend Windlass’ M1840 NCO sword over Universal’s P1796 unless you want eye candy. The Universal is better finished but you are paying for it. I also find the P1796 blade more pleasing to the eye with its long foible, the blade is also bigger. KoA asks $117 for the M1840 compared to $204. Furthermore the M1840 will hold its edge better, not to mention handles better. I’d recommend the Ames version sold by ACC for $150 because of the leather sheath which won’t dull the blade as fast as the steel, and there is less of a rust issue. Both companies offer a sharpening service. Actually the two are sister companies. Keep in mind this is primarily a thrusting blade although it will cut. The P1796 is probably the best penetrator that I have when it comes to thrusting. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/56791/windlass-new-m1840-sword-5000836
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