Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2017 16:34:29 GMT
Well the truth is that honing and polishing on your own is a lot more satisfying than using power tools, but for someone inexperienced as I am it might be good. Just a thought: I was under the impression that with the correct edge alignment and proper technique a medium sharp blade can cut easily ( which I've done a couple of times ). I guess I was wrong. No you're right. The disregard for proper technique and over emphasis on non traditional cutting targets changes thing a little.
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SeanF
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Post by SeanF on Apr 21, 2017 16:48:37 GMT
Yes, that's the one. As for cutting with a medium sharp sword, it depends what you mean 'medium sharp'. I would consider cutting paper but not shaving to be sort of sharp, and shaving hairs to be sharp. You started this by asking about cutting targets horizontally that were not supported, so that is even more demanding of technique/sharpness. I'm not advocating sharpening over developing skills, but realistically your sword sounds dull enough that it would be giving your skewed feedback on your technical development, and you also didn't ask about technique. As for hand sharpening, I guess to each their own. I personally found hand tools to be agonizingly slow.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Apr 21, 2017 16:57:24 GMT
Well the truth is that honing and polishing on your own is a lot more satisfying than using power tools, but for someone inexperienced as I am it might be good. Just a thought: I was under the impression that with the correct edge alignment and proper technique a medium sharp blade can cut easily ( which I've done a couple of times ). I guess I was wrong. The sharpness of you blade will dictate how much force and speed that is needed. The sharper you sword is the less force and effort is needed to cut your target. The duller the sword the more force and speed is needed and that can effect edge alignment and technique. And since you you are using HEMA terms in describing your cuts I'll talk more for martial cutting instead of just back yard cutting. The European fights book don't really like over swinging powerful cuts that causes you to lose your balance also called buffalo cuts. But this is what you have to do when you are cutting with a duller sword. Even in historical first hand accounts talk about this. One good source is a book called "Swordsman of The British Empire " one passage talked about how a stout English man (not a normal guy but a very strong guy), can cleave a head from top of the head down to the chin with a dull sword using all his strength, but a Indian can do the same cut with just using his wrist with a razor sharp sword. Also the targets you are using are to flexible .
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Post by lamtab on Apr 21, 2017 17:07:52 GMT
Of course I am using half cuts and not overly swung cuts. I see no point in that as the purpose is to improve your technique not just to split something in pieces . Anyway I will go with the work sharp tool. Thank you all for your advice Btw Razor if it's you cutting with a tinker pearce in youtube then awesome job my friend. I really like it
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Post by wazikan on Apr 21, 2017 17:58:19 GMT
you can cut slow. I do it all the time
but alignment is key in my book.
Yeah it's possible to cut slow, but it still depends on the type of target, what cut you are doing, is it the long edge or short edge, bad sharpness. just a kesagiri. I prefer to cut with the monouchi but it really doesn't matter.
im assuming that's what you ment by the long or short edge. ive never heard that before. they all have long edges
I cut tatami. I really don't see a use for cutting bottles.
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Post by lamtab on Apr 21, 2017 18:05:45 GMT
a double edged sword has obviously two edges: the long ( front ) and the short ( back )
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Apr 21, 2017 18:07:07 GMT
Not having used a Work Sharp I cannot speak with authority, but those accessories offered with the Work Sharp that look so appealingly helpful may not work with a sword. They are designed for thinner bladed knives, just food for thought. Read all of the reviews on Amazon, even if you don’t buy from them.
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 21, 2017 18:24:09 GMT
A medium-sharp blade -can- (my Ronin RK Euro #7 tears paper more than it cuts - but can actually cut bottles and medium targets with good alignment), but there are limits, and it becomes more exacting to actually cut more difficult targets - particularly unsupported ones. If you're trying a zwerchhau on a hanging target, that will indeed be FAR more difficult, the less-sharp that the blade is. I've seen people cut (not rip) empty water bottles... and I don't think it would be possible with a medium-sharp blade, no matter how expert you are. (Edit: Oops, didn't see the second page. Pretty much the same as everyone else has said! )
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 21, 2017 18:29:29 GMT
Not having used a Work Sharp I cannot speak with authority, but those accessories offered with the Work Sharp that look so appealingly helpful may not work with a sword. They are designed for thinner bladed knives, just food for thought. Read all of the reviews on Amazon, even if you don’t buy from them. I actually have a Worksharp (K.O. Edition) - that I've been practicing on knives with. I'll probably pop up a thread with my thoughts once I graduate to my swords. A little nervous. I have two swords that I don't mind messing up a little that I'm going to try it on before moving on to the rest of my collection. (Old Windlass German Bastard and a Henry V Hanwei)
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Post by lamtab on Apr 21, 2017 19:08:35 GMT
I got my work sharp after all. It worked just fine with my longsword. Now I can shave hair with it. I guess I'll never learn how to hone properly with a whetstone and sandpaper but well, I enjoy using the sword more than honing it
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 21, 2017 19:11:52 GMT
I got my work sharp after all. It worked just fine with my longsword. Now I can shave hair with it. I guess I'll never learn how to hone properly with a whetstone and sandpaper but well, I enjoy using the sword more than honing it More brave than I to go straight to your longsword with it. Glad to hear it went well though!
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 21, 2017 20:51:26 GMT
I never was able to sharpen a sword without my worksharp. With the knife accessories you sharpen more like sharpening a knife, getting a thin and very sharp edge. Without you sharpen automatically more to an appleseed shape with more meat behind the edge for cleaving harder targets and surviving edge to edge contact with another sword. A sword doesn't have to be as sharp as a razor or a really sharp knife. If it cuts paper with a little slicing move it's very sharp. Swords are not made for cleanly cutting ping pong balls.
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Post by 28shadow on Apr 21, 2017 22:08:06 GMT
I have the $70 simpler worksharp and I'll swear by it. When I angle the blade right against the belt it gives it an almost appleseed edge. Made my CS 1917 cutlass a lightsaber. Also works wonders on my CS machetes (those things cut better than my swords, at least on mats and bottles).
I've yet to play with the Ken Onion system, but Skallagrim swears by it, and I love my cheaper one. Might be a good investment.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Apr 21, 2017 22:24:42 GMT
Afaik the normal version has no adjustable speed, but I think this is only usefull for sharpening knives. I only use the "throttle trigger" when sharpening swords freehand.
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Post by wazikan on Apr 21, 2017 23:02:46 GMT
I have a worksharp and I keep telling myself I need to use it more so I can edge up my swords
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Apr 21, 2017 23:12:30 GMT
Of course I am using half cuts and not overly swung cuts. I see no point in that as the purpose is to improve your technique not just to split something in pieces :P. Anyway I will go with the work sharp tool. Thank you all for your advice Btw Razor if it's you cutting with a tinker pearce in youtube then awesome job my friend. I really like it I don't own a Tinker sword, but I do have a video cutting with my Hanwei/Tinker Longsword. Is that the video you are taking about? If so thank you. I glad you like it.
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