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Post by lamtab on Mar 13, 2017 21:52:45 GMT
Hello guys I recently acquired a bosworth longsword by windlass. The sword wasn't sharpened so I tried doing it myself but newbie as I am I scratched the blade using 400 sandpaper. Can I fix this? By the way the sword is still not sharp at all.
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Post by mrbadexample on Mar 13, 2017 22:13:37 GMT
Yup. You can fix the scratches. Try to get them all moving the same way (parallel to the edge) using more 400 grit paper. Then move up in grits, still going the same way, until you are happy with the way it looks. A gray scotchbrite pad will help too if you want to give it a satin finish. As for sharpening, just paper probably won't do unless you have a lot of time to spare. Some careful file work will establish the edge faster. Then you can move on to paper.
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Post by mrbadexample on Mar 13, 2017 22:16:05 GMT
Oh, wait. The Bosworth has a black finish, right? That will make things harder. Ignore my previous advice about using more paper unless you want to strip off the black.
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Post by lamtab on Mar 13, 2017 23:43:26 GMT
Oh, wait. The Bosworth has a black finish, right? That will make things harder. Ignore my previous advice about using more paper unless you want to strip off the black Yeah thats the issue here. Thanks anyway.
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Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 14, 2017 1:25:08 GMT
I prefer to use a stone for sharpening. A diamond one for making the initial edge, and ceramic for smoothing it out
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Post by lamtab on Mar 14, 2017 10:05:40 GMT
Well thanks for your advice on sharpening but right now my main issue is the damage I've done to the blade.
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Post by seriouslee on Mar 14, 2017 20:22:42 GMT
Well thanks for your advice on sharpening but right now my main issue is the damage I've done to the blade. The scratches are metal grey and the blade is black? Flat black? Will you still want to sharpen it? If so that needs to be done first and then refinishing which could be as simple as a sharpie. Depends on how much the aesthetics mean to you. Then again a well done silver edge might be a great contrast?
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Post by lamtab on Mar 14, 2017 21:46:33 GMT
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Post by lamtab on Mar 14, 2017 21:50:45 GMT
Depends on how much the aesthetics mean to you. I got the sword for test cutting so the important part is the functioning of the sword. Thing is it is so pretty that I felt bad for scratching it like that
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Post by seriouslee on Mar 14, 2017 22:33:22 GMT
Depends on how much the aesthetics mean to you. I got the sword for test cutting so the important part is the functioning of the sword. Thing is it is so pretty that I felt bad for scratching it like that Swords that are used well, show it. id est do not feel bad. The blade likes it.
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Post by Verity on Mar 14, 2017 22:47:54 GMT
Depends on how much the aesthetics mean to you. I got the sword for test cutting so the important part is the functioning of the sword. Thing is it is so pretty that I felt bad for scratching it like that :P Don't feel bad. Using that will scuff the bluing/blackening anyway. You just got the ball rolling on it early. :) They do have blackening agents that you could redo it at some point but if you are planning to use it, then I'd not fret about it.
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Post by lamtab on Mar 15, 2017 7:32:28 GMT
Well thank you for saying that guys. I hope I can satisfy the blade
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Post by lamtab on Mar 15, 2017 10:58:08 GMT
Hello guys So I visited the local hema school and they told me that my sword is already sharpened ( yeah I am a noob ). It just needs a little work with multiple sizes of emery paper. They couldnt not remember the correct sizes though. Anyone know anything about it?
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Post by Faldarin on Mar 15, 2017 12:53:53 GMT
I was going to say - the Bosworth (Battlecry) does come 'sharp', as far as I know. Could have gotten it secondhand though. Just know that 'sword sharp' isn't the same thing as 'razor sharp'. There's a line between 'being able to shave hairs off your arm', and 'so sharp the edge damages after I use it' that you don't want to cross. But if they told you it needed a touch up, relatively high grit sandpaper should do the job as mrbadexample stated. Maybe start higher than 400 and move up. There's multiple sharpening tutorials around, I can try to find some later, if you can't locate them on the site.
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Post by Verity on Mar 15, 2017 14:08:14 GMT
I was going to say - the Bosworth (Battlecry) does come 'sharp', as far as I know. Could have gotten it secondhand though. :) Just know that 'sword sharp' isn't the same thing as 'razor sharp'. There's a line between 'being able to shave hairs off your arm', and 'so sharp the edge damages after I use it' that you don't want to cross. But if they told you it needed a touch up, relatively high grit sandpaper should do the job as mrbadexample stated. Maybe start higher than 400 and move up. There's multiple sharpening tutorials around, I can try to find some later, if you can't locate them on the site. Generally for polish of Euros I start at 400 or 600 and go to 800/1000 at most, then scotchbrite pad and aluminum oxide polishing compound to give it that Albion satin finish. Edge honing is the same though you generally may want a wet stone at a 15 degree angle on each side (yields a 30 degree total edge angle). Go slow and then blend the edge with same as above. Final strope with a stroping leather. Faldarin is correct. The more "razor" the edge the more prone to dulling, chipping or rolling it is. There is a fine line. Lonely Wolf Forge and Tomkin forge may be great folks to ask about this as they are both notable at their sharpening skills. Tom has a tutorial around in the sword repair section of the forum I believe.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Mar 18, 2017 18:32:11 GMT
Hello guys So I visited the local hema school and they told me that my sword is already sharpened ( yeah I am a noob ). It just needs a little work with multiple sizes of emery paper. They couldnt not remember the correct sizes though. Anyone know anything about it? I understand your problem Lamtab. The finish is scratched forever I’m afraid. I am not familiar with the finish on the Battlecry series. That is I don’t know if it’s an oxidation process such as a bluing, or a coating put on the metal. In the end with use they will both scratch but probably differently than those you put on. It is possibly to remove the finish, whatever type it is and if you desire a dark blade to have it blued. The best bluing is hot blue and any gunsmith will do this. You can do it at home with a cold blue, but this normally is not as eye pleasing and not as durable as hot blue. There is a process called Parkerizing that is more durable than hot blue but for a sword you probably would not want this. As for sharpening, there are numerous posts on the forum regarding that. You stated emery paper, which is my favourite. You will need a flat working surface and a compressible material such as a mouse pad. Using wet/dry paper the grit size is subjective and depends on the condition of the metal. Most people start with too fine of a grit making more work for themselves. Generally I start with 220, finer if only a minor touch up is needed. Place the compressible material on the flat surface with the paper on top. Wet with a light oil, WD-40 is good. Draw the blade across the paper, cutting edge trailing. Continue until sharp then go to the next finer grit doing the same but drawing at a different angle, perhaps 30° different. Continue until all traces of the original draw are gone. This will allow you to know where you are. Go to the next finer grit going back to the original angle. Continue doing this until you get the degree of polish you desire. For a cutting edge I usually stop at around 600-1000 but will go higher depending. You can always strop at the end. It is also possible to use the above process to polish your sword, but you might want to start with something more aggressive than 220 the first time around. If you desire a mirror finish, after finishing with, say 1500 grit, go to a metal polish such as Metal Glo. Just had a thought about bluing and gunsmiths; Gunsmiths like to polish in preparation to bluing using a polishing wheel. Don’t let that happen. Prepare the metal yourself by hand. If there is any touching up to be done let the smith do it-by hand. A buffing wheel will remove any well defined corners and edges on your sword. It is also likely to put high and low spots on your blade as he travels down the blade.
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Post by lamtab on Mar 24, 2017 11:12:37 GMT
Thanks for the advice pgandy. I will start the process today and inform you about the results
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Post by lamtab on Mar 24, 2017 12:20:33 GMT
So I tried doing what u suggested I used 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 sand paper with hanwei sword oil. I drew the sword on the paper as u suggested doing about 50 strokes on each size. I have no results so far. Maybe I really suck on this?
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Post by lamtab on Mar 24, 2017 12:48:18 GMT
So I tried doing what u suggested I used 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 sand paper with hanwei sword oil. I drew the sword on the paper as u suggested doing about 50 strokes on each size. I have no results so far. Maybe I really suck on this? Just to clarify: I am not trying to make the sword razor sharp. I don't need to shave with it. What I expect to see is the sword being able to cut paper. I can cut fruit and vegetables but can't make it with paper.
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Post by Faldarin on Mar 24, 2017 13:09:02 GMT
It does take a lot of practice to get right. I've done a great deal of practice on pocketknives before I moved up to swords - and even then, I'm not great at hand-sharpening.
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