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Post by arfoo on Dec 23, 2016 6:11:35 GMT
So a lot of people don't like cold steel because of many of their swords coming out not so great... well this one actually, might not be too bad... but that's just my opinion
Point of balance, about 7-8 inches from hilt comes barely sharpened from 1/4 of the distance from the hilt - with that thing that covers the point that likely makes it dull - make sure you buy a sharpener Weight: 33.8 oz. Blade Thickness: 5/16" Blade Length: 32" Handle: 5 3/4" Cord Wrapped Ray Skin Handle Overall: 37 3/4" THAT HANDLE IS AMAZING. It feels great in the hand no homo... The handle alone makes it feel so much better balanced than it actually is. It fits alright in the leather sheath, although some people will be anal and dislike the fact that it "rattles" if you shake it. It's leather bro...
anyway, check it out!!!
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gandermail
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Post by gandermail on Dec 23, 2016 20:35:22 GMT
I haven't watched the video yet so apologies if you explain it in there but do you have any idea why they would go to the trouble to make a ray skin handle then cord wrap it?
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Dec 23, 2016 20:56:05 GMT
From the photos, there are 6 or 7 well-spaced narrow bands of wrapping (in the grooves in the grip). In most Western military sabres, these are metal wire. From the "cord wrapped" description, these are cord on this sabre. Wraps like these help keep the rayskin (or leather) on properly in case it tears, the glue fails, etc. It's also decorative. I don't think cord would be as good as wire in this case, but it will at least fulfill the "decorative" part of the job description.
But there are also many sword hilts out there with rayskin and a more complete cord wrapping (e.g., the typical katana hilt). In those cases, the rayskin (a) reinforces the hilt (if a full wrap; the common panels-on-the-sides on katana doesn't do this), (b) is decorative if the wrap leaves some of it visible, and (c) stops the wrap from slipping. The wrap on top of the rayskin is intended to (a) reinforce the hilt, (b) be decorative, and (c) provide a more comfortable grip than bare rayskin (especially for bare hands).
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harrybeck
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Post by harrybeck on Dec 24, 2016 2:58:08 GMT
Nice video, i like the saber too!
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Post by arfoo on Dec 24, 2016 11:15:29 GMT
I haven't watched the video yet so apologies if you explain it in there but do you have any idea why they would go to the trouble to make a ray skin handle then cord wrap it? Hey man, I think, like the poster above me said, that it's partly historical and it also makes it so your hand fits better. The grooves made by the steel cords kind of are really nice fitting for your fingers. Also, coming from a short guy, I don't understand why you would want to wrap a handle up if it isn't already comfortable to hold. I hate weilding most katanas because it's hard to grip it because of the obnoxious slippery rope wrap. This "austrian saber" hilt and handle is freaking perfect lol. Because I don't have to worry about holding it and it flying out of my hand, It doesn't feel as heavy as it otherwise would. I'm going to make another review about the cold steel napoleon saber as well because I bought it and the one thing that is a deal breaker for me for practicality is that the handle is too damn thick. The balance is fine, even better than this sword, but I have so much tension in my wrist to control this thing because it's so hard to wrap my hand around the handle LOL...
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Post by arfoo on Dec 24, 2016 11:16:35 GMT
It's like DERP, I think we'll make the handle a lot better and easier to hold by increasing its circumference DERP DERP
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 24, 2016 13:51:28 GMT
Awesome review, made me order a Thompson Saber. Have heard about a piece's blade bending at the end of the fuller stabbing a plastic drum. No worries, as soon as it gets here, I'll test my Thompson Saber's durability also... Please give a report.
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harrybeck
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Post by harrybeck on Dec 25, 2016 0:55:47 GMT
Anybody got one they want to unload?
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Post by Afoo on Dec 25, 2016 1:10:42 GMT
To play devils advocate - the majority of the complaints I have heard about the Tommy Sabre's weight isn't because people don't, as you put it, "lift". Its because the Thompson, and indeed the other CS replicas are heavier than the original versions (in the case of the 1860 and ANXI), or the equivalent contemporary counterparts in the case of the Thompson. 2.2 lb is not bad at all - but I have antiques which are 2.3 or 2.4 lb, but come with an extra 2-3 inches of blade at the end. Likewise I have a French 1829 which has the same blade length, but comes in at 2.0 lb. I agree with you that it is a good sword - I have handled it and its not bad. Taper is reasonable as well - I believe its 7-8 mm ta the base, which is similar to what my US 1860/1906 sword has, and it goes to somewhere north of 2.5 at the tip. Definitely better that some of the Universal and Windlass productions However, the Windlass swords are much cheaper. The Thompson comes in at around $200-250 retail - which is approaching antique sword levels. This is my main beef with the thing. The same $250 can get me a British 1885p, which objectively speaking is money better spent - is a great sword in its own right and robust enough for routine cutting and drilling, Being an antique it will also retain its resale value better that a replica. Personally, I am with you on the Thompson - I like the thing. The blade is good enough to be functional, and the combination of the curved cutting blade and that pierced 1904 guard looks great. My brother has one. He has admittedly done some work on the blade to better match the dimensions of a contemporary 1796, but it is still his favorite replica. I have seriously considered getting one for myself - but every time I go to look at it the price drives me away. Also, there is this to consider. I am not certain that I agree 100% with the sentiment here with regards to their advertising strategy, but its some food for thought. ~~ On the topic of the sword itself - it also looks like the blade on the Tommy sabre is thinner than that of the 1796 as well/ I recall the Tommy sabre as feeling more appropriately sized for use on foot rather than on horseback - what do you think? Here is a Trooper's 1796 LC (third from top) compared to an infantry officer;s custom purchase sword (bottom). The other two swords are the standard issue 1796 inf. officer spadroon (top) and the replacement 1803 inf. sword (2nd). With regards to the CS Cutlasses - I have had their Hybrid cutlass (basically their standard 1917 cutalss with the 1904 guard - much like your Tommy sabre). The blade is shorter, but the grip is worse IMO and the blade has much less taper. I seriously doubt it is significantly faster in maneuvering that the Thompson. Also, thanks for the video review - appreciate the work you did to make it, and its always nice to have more opinions.
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Post by bfoo2 on Dec 25, 2016 5:50:34 GMT
Yeah I inherited one from Dave Kelly last year (discussion from that review here). Interestingly I found the grips to be the weak point rather than the blade (which isn't all that bad). I didn't like how they shrink towards the heel of the hand. I find it a bit of a liability for open-handed thumb-and-heel work, but it can be hammer-gripped quite well.
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Post by arfoo on Dec 25, 2016 9:27:52 GMT
yah I think in my review I said that the difference between this and the 1796 was that the difference between this and the 1796 (cold steel version from what I've seen on youtube and in pictures) is that the tip is a lot more pointed in the Thompson saber.
As for the person whose blade bent, mine actually bent a bit too, when I kept it in my car in a tight squeeze between the passenger seat and the cupholders. I was able to easily bend it back into shape though, with my hand and foot, and now it doesn't look like it was bent.
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Post by arfoo on Dec 25, 2016 9:30:18 GMT
But I guess because it isn't spring steel, you just gotta be aware not to do crazy stuff with the sword because it will bend (because 1055), but not break since that's their warranty or something? Not sure Attachments:
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 25, 2016 15:17:56 GMT
But I guess because it isn't spring steel, you just gotta be aware not to do crazy stuff with the sword because it will bend (because 1055), but not break since that's their warranty or something? Not sure I believe you stated in your video that you got it from Amazon, if not you used Amazon as a reference. I would not depend on CS to honour their guarantee as I’ve seen several people complain. This is from the reviews on Amazon. “1 of 2 people found the following review helpful ***WARNING -- THIS HAS NO MANUFACTURER WARRANTY*** By P. H. on June 5, 2015 I CALLED COLD STEEL DIRECTLY IN VENTURA, CA, AND SPOKE WITH DYLAN IN THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT. HE SAID THAT COLD STEEL CATEGORICALLY ***DOES NOT COVER*** THIS UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE THEY HAVE NO WAY TO VERIFY WHERE IT CAME FROM AND THAT ANY BUYER MUST ASSUME IT IS DAMAGED OR DEFECTIVE. SAME GOES FOR EVERY OTHER COLD STEEL ITEM YOU FIND HERE.”
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Post by arfoo on Dec 27, 2016 8:04:23 GMT
The bend occured on the fuller area.
And yeah, I've seen that guy post on amazon.com on EVERY single cold steel video and 1 star review everything i think... should probably get removed for spam because he's 1 starring everything lol but yeah, I don't expect to try their warranty lol
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Post by arfoo on Dec 28, 2016 10:47:51 GMT
The bend occured on the fuller area. Thank you for the answer, arfoo. I don’t think it was uncommon for historic pieces either to bend on thrusts on rigid targets, especially with more curved blades. I think besides the heat treat the sudden change in blade thickness in the area around the end of the fuller plays a role. This may be great regarding maneuverability and slashing potential, but not if thrusting rigidity is concerned. More curved blades do not lend themselves well to thrusting… I have cancelled my order on the Tommy, by the way, but not because of these matters. It just happened that I got a very nice offer on a Windlass 1860 cavalry saber, but cannot justify both purchases. I plan to modify the Windlass, to get some kind of infantry sword out of it. That should get me a nice beater to torment, without the hazards to flush 400 EUR down the drain. Call me a cheap ruffian. Be sure to let us know how the 1860 cavalry saber turns out
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Post by arfoo on Jan 6, 2017 10:35:33 GMT
Be sure to let us know how the 1860 cavalry saber turns out sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/18875/new-acquisitions-thread?page=233&scrollTo=681847I think you could like the handle on the Windlass 1860 LC (saw your vid on the CS 1830 on youtube). Also saw your video on the CS tactical katana machete... Perhaps you'd like to try the the CS cutlass machete - much thinner grip, great design for one handed usage and makes more sense in a machete configuration than the tactical katana machete, imo (don't think its blade has enough weight for optimal two handed usage). Would still need some wrapping, 'cause the poly grip is rather slippery. That handle looks great! Do you see the width of the handle on the katana though? Absolutely horrid for single handed use.... and questionable for double handed use, although the Japanese managed somehow Yeah, I have the cutlass Machete, Just haven't found a good day to film a review. It's probably the best machete cold steel makes.
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Post by arfoo on Jan 7, 2017 12:33:37 GMT
That handle looks great! Do you see the width of the handle on the katana though? Absolutely horrid for single handed use.... and questionable for double handed use, although the Japanese managed somehow Yeah, I have the cutlass Machete, Just haven't found a good day to film a review. It's probably the best machete cold steel makes. I`d love to see your review on the cutlass machete! I enjoyed every one of your reviews and you`re a great singer, too Hey thanks dude
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 8, 2017 11:03:40 GMT
I have the cutlass machete and think it's very good too. The Thompson is interesting.
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