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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 22, 2008 13:25:21 GMT
I got all sold on the hype. I got this stuff and plastered it all over my collection. Just a fine coat it says. Just buff it back to a fine layer. Now I have fine rust spots and pits everywhere! Whats that all about? All my swords are going mad with rust. I'm going back to my abundant supply of gear oil. Geez, what a hassle.
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2008 13:43:50 GMT
I don’t personally use the product, but many collectors of antiques do, and without any issues. Is there a chance moisture or anything else got trapped between the wax and the blade?
I prefer to use silicone myself since it is much easier to apply. I may experiment with Ren. Wax in the future, though. It looks like I’ll need some advice on how to apply it, though!
Good luck sorting-out this problem!
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2008 14:36:00 GMT
Living in B.C., Canada has got to be one of the most humid and damp environments one could be in. I have applied Rennaissance Wax to all my swords. They seem to be fine so far. I made sure to wipe down the swords from the paste they came shipped in. Then I applied the Ren Wax with the same dry cloth I initially wiped them down with. Storage has been in a dark cool dry place. I may eventually apply a light sheen of oil to them all as an added protection. I think it all comes down to the initial preparation and the place it is being stored.
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Post by YlliwCir on May 22, 2008 17:17:54 GMT
Hmm, I don't know, Brenno. I just checked some of my blades that haven't been out of there scabbards in a while and they look okay. I have noticed some surface rust occationally if I don't get them dry enough after use. After a good cutting session I usually clean them with "Neverdull" and then reapply the ren-wax. Were you keeping them in leather sheaths? I ask because no matter how much ren-wax I put on my Gen2 Pompeii, it would start to rust when I tryed to keep it in that crappy leather sheath. I don't reckon you got some pics afore you cleaned them? I think I'll get some "tuff-cloth" to be on the safe side.
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Post by jjshade on May 22, 2008 23:13:19 GMT
I'd say that moisture under the wax coat is the most likely culprit. If I put ren-wax on my swords, I first wipe them clean, oil them, wipe them clean again, and then put the Renaissance-wax on.
Then there's the possibility that something has gotten into your Renaissance-wax... salt particles or something. Are you sure you've kept the lid closed?
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Post by jpfranco on May 22, 2008 23:21:10 GMT
I have been using Ren Wax for years and never had any problem with it(no rust, finger prints, etc...) I wonder what happened?
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2008 12:16:26 GMT
I have had the same results as jpfranco. I have a couple of folded katanas that I put Ren Wax on and have not had any issues with it at all. I have left them for months with no problem, just followed the directions on the tin.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 23, 2008 15:37:19 GMT
Yeah guys I don't know what's up. I tried to keep a good layer on it. It was a brand new tin. There was no cutting splash on them. But it is winter here now, and the room with the swords in doesn't seal up very well. Very old house.
I'll just do some tests. I'll wipe three blades down with spirit. I'll coat one with oil, one in Ren Wax, and rub one over with Autosol Metal Polish. I'll store them together and see how they go.
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Post by YlliwCir on May 23, 2008 16:16:01 GMT
Ahhh, good for you, Brenno. Experiment for the cause. +1
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2008 17:29:53 GMT
Hey B try warming the blades up to drive off any moisture before you put on the wax. I dont know how cold it is there, this time of year.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 24, 2008 1:02:34 GMT
Hey B try warming the blades up to drive off any moisture before you put on the wax. I dont know how cold it is there, this time of year. Good idea. There would be latent moisture clinging to the cold blade. If you've ever heard Aussies carrying on about how hot and dry it is here.... Right now we get minimums around 8-10C and maximums 17-23C. Some winter hey? In the coldest months (Jul/ Aug) we rarely go below 0C. The coldest mornings possible might be 2 below, 3 perhaps. I wish this was our summer - I hate heat. Summers give us about 10 weeks of 22-28 minimums and 34-45C maximums. Its awful, in were not even in a really hot area. But Perth is the dryest city in Australia. Hot and Dry...
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2008 18:08:06 GMT
Brenno, Had the same problem as you... Don't know why Ren Wax doesn't work the 'wonders' for me as much as others It neither prevents rust nor finger prints for me. Worst still, it's patchy on the blade surface no matter how I buff the blade I gave up! Nowadays I use '3-in-1' oil. So far, Ren Wax seems to work on Denix-kind of brass/cast iron surface for me... Sorie, guys Do keep us posted on the outcome of your little experiment. Thanks~
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2008 21:09:51 GMT
Hi It sounds like you may have been unlucky & sealed moisture in with the Renwax. I used to use Renwax for my knives. Never had a problem with it. It kept the steel in numerous different types of high carbon , sanmai & folded blades perfect when in storage. Down side. It's a pig to get off. It's no good for displayed blades in cabinet etc. I now use Tuf cloth for all my knives & swords, even those on display. No complaints after several years of usage The Marine Tuf cloth just has to be used to be believed. I have protected raw steel car ramps left outide through winter. No corrosion. Cheers
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on May 24, 2008 22:14:37 GMT
Gear oil, every time. Works like a charming charmy charm.
I have always been dubious of specific 'sword oils' and ren wax, simply because they sounded too much like plain old oil or wax with a MASSIVE mark up.
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2008 23:14:07 GMT
I use renwax on all my swords. No problems, other than a little white residue if it sets up on the blade for a while (probably from too thick a coat). I have very high humidity here, and it does a fine job of keeping rust off for me. The worst rust problem I had occurred after taking my Hanwei claymore to the Georgia Renfaire. I wiped the blade clean of the renwax before I left and by the time I got home the same day rust had set up on the blade in a half dozen spots! If you dont want your renwax Brenno, mail it to me
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Post by YlliwCir on May 25, 2008 1:54:16 GMT
I'm running low on ren-wax. I have a few tubes of metal-glo so I'm going to coat my blades with that and I ordered some tuff-cloth to wipe em down after cutting sessions. Ya'all think this is a good idea?
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on May 25, 2008 2:19:19 GMT
have you read the tube that metal glo comes in not one thing in it is good for metal so for the sake of your swords clean and oil after metal glo
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Post by jpfranco on May 25, 2008 2:20:06 GMT
I am not sure I would coat blades with metal glow and leave it on for a significance amount of time. It is a polishing paste and I think the sooner you polish it off the blade the better. I have a blade(the windlass sword of Tigris) and I left metal glow on for too long and the blade has these streak looking stains on it that I cannot polish off. You may want to try it on a piece of metal or a wall hanger before trying this on one of your "real" sword.
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Post by YlliwCir on May 25, 2008 3:17:17 GMT
Thanks, fellas, reckon I'll eighty six that idea and order some more ren-wax.
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on May 25, 2008 3:26:57 GMT
I'm not sayig use a produci you think un-suitable just clean the polishing compound off before storing
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