AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 1, 2016 10:00:38 GMT
After two years I wanted to examine the tang for rust. Perhaps you find it interesting. The blade is hold securely by the big crossguard and the handle, locked in there, the handle is a 3 mm strong steel tube (magnetic). I think not much stress reaches the blade/tang transition through this construction. The tang is beefy, the threaded part not welded on. Here you see the handle from the pommel side with the hole for the threaded rod. When I got it two years ago the handle twisted a bit, so I dismantled it, added a washer and a second nut for security and was able to tighten it. The threaded rod was a bit rusty, I cleaned it, no new rust now. Weights: sword: 3530 g blade: 1125 g guard: 1472 g handle: 278 g pommel: 632 g Thickness: sorry not very accurate: tang + blade to end of ricasso: 4 mm some distal taper to the tip threaded rod: 7 mm It is an unusal construction with this guard and handle-tube, but I think it is durable. The pommel is only plugged on the handle steeltube, tight, but I added some epoxy. To get it off I heated the pommel in hot water (danger: hot pommel) and used a piece of wood to beat it off. Thanks to ConanfanBrazil for this trick. Edit to correct a misunderstanding: The heavy pommel is not connected to the threaded rod at the end of the tang in any way. It is sitting only upon the handle steel tube. The nut on the threaded rod holds together the guard/handle-steeltube block and locks the blade in this block.
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Post by pound752002 on Oct 1, 2016 11:17:02 GMT
Thanks for posting this. I've had my eyes on this sword for a while.
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Oct 1, 2016 12:38:54 GMT
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stormmaster
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Post by stormmaster on Oct 1, 2016 20:23:19 GMT
wow it looks decent, i totally thought it would be terrible but its not
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 2, 2016 6:06:34 GMT
No, it's not . I'm really happy with it. Watching the movie with the sword standing beside you with your hand on the pommel is matchless. Of course it's ridiculous heavy for a sword, I compare it with my 5 kg dumbbell. But you'll find yourself suddenly in front of a mirror posing with it and trying the Arnie-twist. And all your other swords become lighter and lighter.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 3, 2016 9:58:06 GMT
Ok, it's a fantasy sword, but I think about how such a sword can be made lighter. The blade can be grinded lighter a bit, a real sword handle, hollow guard/pommel? Perhaps wooden guard/pommel, like a gladius, with small steel layers?
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kaiyo
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Post by kaiyo on Oct 3, 2016 13:20:36 GMT
its the same part rattail tang contruction like the Windlass Conanswords, and im not with you for the following:
"... I think not much stress reaches the blade/tang transition through this construction..."
it does !
thats not a proper tang contruction, and believe me because it's such a heavy sword, the tang will break with frequent use
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 3, 2016 13:37:58 GMT
I'm no swordsmith and I will not use it in a stressing way.
But this construction is totaly different to a "normal" sword. Guard, handle and pommel are essentialy one block in which the blade is locked in.
I can imagine some vibration stress, but not flexing. Has anyone ever posted a broken Atlantean? Of course most owners don't use it for cutting, I think.
This is the Windlass Conansword as far as I know. I posted it because I can't judge if this construction is ok or not. But I think it's different from a normal rat tang problem.
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kaiyo
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Post by kaiyo on Oct 3, 2016 17:33:52 GMT
I'm no swordsmith and I will not use it in a stressing way. But this construction is totaly different to a "normal" sword. Guard, handle and pommel are essentialy one block in which the blade is locked in. I can imagine some vibration stress, but not flexing. Has anyone ever posted a broken Atlantean? Of course most owners don't use it for cutting, I think. This is the Windlass Conansword as far as I know. I posted it because I can't judge if this construction is ok or not. But I think it's different from a normal rat tang problem. the big problem is the pommel and how it is attached to the rattail tang/part, for this sword normally you would peen the pommel because of the weigth im just sayin this sword is not safe to "use", to be more than a wallhanger...
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 3, 2016 17:42:10 GMT
The pommel isn't attached to the threaded rod! It is plugged upon the handle-steeltube only. It might fall off due to vibration, but I think that will not really happen. If it does, the rest of the sword is tight as before. I edited my post here and in the database to make this more clear. Good to talk about this!!!
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kaiyo
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Post by kaiyo on Oct 4, 2016 8:00:00 GMT
The pommel isn't attached to the threaded rod! It is plugged upon the handle-steeltube only. It might fall off due to vibration, but I think that will not really happen. If it does, the rest of the sword is tight as before. I edited my post here and in the database to make this more clear. Good to talk about this!!! i also need to correct myself cause i know that the pommel is only glued on (i owned a Windlass Conan), what i meant was the screw/tang contruction and just for the record, i used mine for light cutting practice and it did broke....
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 4, 2016 9:15:13 GMT
That is my - in my case theoretical - concern: Can the impact and vibration of a cut make the rod break? To avoid too much tension on this part I skrewed the first nut on with not much power and used a counter-nut to secure it.
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Alan Schiff
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Post by Alan Schiff on Oct 5, 2016 17:37:23 GMT
The only issue I see with the tang is that the transition from the thicker section to the threaded section is square. Assuming these blades are the same as most other threaded Windlass pieces, the threaded portion is either 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch in diameter (most likely the latter based on the pics), which is fine for the back portion of the tang. The problem is that, because of the 90 degree angle of the tang shoulders, there is more stress in that area. Round off or taper that area a little, just like the shoulders of the blade, and it should be perfectly fine, IMHO.
Hope that helps, Alan
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 5, 2016 18:17:38 GMT
Thank you for this advice, Allan.
I thought of this, but I have a question.
Of course a rounded shoulder between such angles on a tang is better than a sharp 90 or less angle. It's better to make such a shoulder when making the sword.
But does some rounding-grinding really improve such a sharp angle, only by removing material above it? I'm no material specialist but for what I know of steel I have problems with physical reasons for this idea.
I can imagine some leverage problems with hilt components. But pure bending or vibration?
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Alan Schiff
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Post by Alan Schiff on Oct 6, 2016 21:26:12 GMT
Hey Andi. There most likely won't be a problem with the tang as it is, since the weak area is in the middle of the grip and shouldn't get stressed from leverage. However, without handling the sword and knowing where the percussive node in the tang is, I can't know for sure. What I do know is that rounding out that area will increase its structural integrity and ability to handle stress. It works the same way as an arch does: instead of the stress bearing only on the spot where the threaded portion meets the rest of the tang, it would be spread out along the whole length of the curve. IMO, since it's a pretty easy thing to accomplish, even with hand files, it's worth doing.
Hope that makes sense, Alan
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stormmaster
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Post by stormmaster on Oct 6, 2016 22:46:49 GMT
does the grip core fit on the tang snugly? if not you might want to ask someone to make you a new one that fits exactly for proper grip
on my MRL Retribution swords the grip core was also a metal hallowed out rod which didnt fit on the tang at all, asked Wes to make me a new wooden one specific for the tang
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 7, 2016 3:36:54 GMT
No it doesn't, but I think it isn't important for this special hilt constructon. I read a post somewhere of a guy filling the tube with epoxy.
Imagine one big heavy hilt block (guard, handle, pommel) in which the blade is laid in like in some spring knives. The massive guard is where the blade would flex on an impact and where the blade-tang shoulders are. I think this will catch the "big" stress. But I can imagine vibration stress down to the threaded rod.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 7, 2016 3:47:56 GMT
that sword is not safe for use, nor can it be made safe imo. Its a very nice wallhanger tho.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2016 4:48:26 GMT
There are some points why i sold my Windlass Atlantean:
. pommel and guard are not even brass, its some kind of pot-metal/zinc alloy; i was able to scratch away the "brass colour" to reveal some greyish stuff . the whole thing was rattling and shaking when swung; very uneasy feeling . had heat treatment issues; well thats not typically Windlass, but i guess they think of this sword as a wallhanger themselves.
My Atlantean from "THEY WHO ARE NOT TO BE NAMED HERE" has a totally different grip/hilt construction: for example: a very wide, fat tang with grip scales attached like on a Kriegsmesser for example; then pinned with wooden pegs like katana grip. Wrapping glued over this, bingo. Pommel screwed on the tang. Only light cutting so far, everything OK. Too heavy to use seriously anyway, while lighter than the Windlass.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 7, 2016 7:41:17 GMT
Guard an pommel are some pot metal, I assume, but bronze is this too. It's so heavy that I think the most part is copper, but who knows. It might be painted in any way, but it looks well and you must use a file to see it. I have absolutely no complaints about the metal or the look.
Ratteling parts will result of a too loose nut, but this can be tightend, I could fix a 1 - 2 mm twist of the handle to the guard.
I found no heat treatment problem with the blade, It flexes "normally" for such a blade. But I can't say what happens with cutting.
The question of saveness/durability with cutting remains. It's definitly built much better than a rattail wallhanger. I would like to see a destructive testing (with very much caution).
Im no windlass representative or fanboy, but this sword is what I expected and what I wanted and I'm very happy with it.
But of course there is always the thought: Can there be a "real sword"-Atlantean. I don't know the one from the masters of evil.
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